How was the factory hardtop rain gutter sealed from the factory?

[Splangy]

You should do some more research before spending any money. Google gel coat. Gel coat is a process performed as the final finish on boats or other fiberglass products. It's a hard, solid-color opaque resin applied as the top coat over the structural fiberglass mat/fibers. A shop will sand and clean up the existing fiberglass surface, fill any holes or damage, then apply the gel coat. After that, you'd attach the gutter and sealer. Usually you would not paint a gel coated surface. No point. You could plan to keep it waxed and with yearly effort you shouldn't need paint for many many years.

No point to painting gel Coat? There'd be a lot of ugly corvette restorations out there if that were the case.

The factory painted the entire assembly to give the entire part one uniform color. If they didn't, the seam sealer, meta drip edge, and fiberglass would all be different colors. The rivets would also all be bare aluminum if they didn't paint everything.

 

[mdsims]

No point to painting gel Coat? There'd be a lot of ugly corvettes out there if that were the case.

The factory painted the entire assembly to give the entire part one uniform color. If they didn't, the seam sealer, meta drip edge, and fiberglass would all be different colors. The rivets would also all be bare aluminum if they didn't paint everything.

Sure, many times it is painted, vetts being one. By no means is painting necessary. Assuming the finished product is already the color you want, I have to stand by it, no real incentive imo to paint it. And my top sure doesn't look to be painted one cohesive color. The gutter sealer looks to have been left raw. 11/70 build.

Point here was that whatever his name needs to figure out what's best for his top, whatever condition it is in.

 

[jestlurnin]

Oh man!! Now what the heck do I do .. @Splangy if I'm reading into what you are saying correctly you think it's,

-fix fiberglass
-gel coat
-apply seam sealer
-paint the whole smear?

 

[jim land]

i used this self-leveling one from an rv repair shop

 

[GA Architect]

For my gutter, I used Dircor, same as above. Went down very nice and smooth. I let it sit for a few months before the re-paint.

Finished the roof with a prep and then paint, all from a Toyota body shop.

 

[jestlurnin]

@GA Architect help me out with the order in which you did everything?

Fiberglass repair, seam sealer (let it cure for a couple months), and lastly paint?

Sounds as if you skipped the gel coat is that correct?

 

[GA Architect]

@GA Architect help me out with the order in which you did everything?

Fiberglass repair, seam sealer (let it cure for a couple months), and lastly paint?

Sounds as if you skipped the gel coat is that correct?

My roof repair process was helped that I took my hard top off at the beginning of February '16, and installed a bikini top for the Spring, Summer and Fall. So I was in no rush to get this done and back on my rig. Also, I did a ton of research about the roof repair process...What I did, is just one way of doing it, as there are many-many other ways of completing this process. I am not advocating that what I've done is the best way, but just the way I did it.

The old gutter caulk/sealant was pulling from the roof and lip, so I removed all of it as best I could. Then I cleaned the fiberglass in the gutter and around the rivets. All the rivets looked good and the gutter wasn't rusted, so minimal work on that part was needed. Once all the old caulk & grime were removed, I did one last cleaning with alcohol. I let it sit a few days, then cleaned again with alcohol. It sat again for a week, then I worked up the nerve to lay down the Dicor. After that, I put the roof up in a rack for a while. Thus, the Dicor had plenty of time to set.

About five months later, towards the end of Summer, I was at my local Toyota body shop due to having my daughters car repaired...(yep, won't go into that...)...and I asked if they had the paint codes for the old Toyota Land Cruisers. They said they could get any paint code I wanted, so I asked if they would paint fiberglass. They said if it was in good shape, it would not be a problem. I told them what I had and wanted painted, they said bring it in and they would see what they could do....A few days later, I brought the roof and a few bezels to them, they liked what they saw, and agreed to paint it. It is not perfect, but I'm very happy with the outcome.

Now I'm not 100% of the process of their work, but I do know they did prep the roof for the new paint and it is NOT a gel coat.

HTH

 

[Splangy]

@GA Architect help me out with the order in which you did everything?

Fiberglass repair, seam sealer (let it cure for a couple months), and lastly paint?

Sounds as if you skipped the gel coat is that correct?

You're making this way too complicated!

You only need to use gecoat if the fiberglass needs it. Don't waste your time if the glass is in good shape.

Use a good quality seam sealer and follow the manufacturer directions. Seam sealer does not takes months or even weeks to cure. If it does, you did something wrong.

Use a good quality epoxy primer regardless of whether or not you gel coat.

The rest is up to you depending on what you want the finished product to look like. If you want it straight and smooth, spray some high build primer and block it before paining. If not, you can shoot it with your compatible topcoat right over the epoxy primer (again, following the manufacturers instructions)

 

[jestlurnin]

@Splangy i always try and make things too difficult. That's generally why things usually turn out the way I want em'. And then 60% of the time it works every time. Research research research, ask a couple more questions, then pull the trigger...

@GA Architect that was very helpful thank you. What tools/implements did you use to remove all the old seam sealer? I'm afraid of damaging the fiberglass if I get too aggressive.

 

[GA Architect]

@Splangy i always try and make things too difficult. That's generally why things usually turn out the way I want em'. And then 60% of the time it works every time. Research research research, ask a couple more questions, then pull the trigger...

@GA Architect that was very helpful thank you. What tools/implements did you use to remove all the old seam sealer? I'm afraid of damaging the fiberglass if I get too aggressive.

I used a Hyde 5 in 1 tool, a 1/4" chisel and a few razor blades. I took my time and didn't gouge the fiberglass......Patience is your friend.

 

[MartynFJ4071]

Yah I'm gonna have the top gel coated so I was wondering where in the process that happens?

-Gel coat after paint?
-Gel coat before paint?
-Ive also seen where the gel coat is tinted with Cygnus white?
-Seam sealer after gel coat?
-Seam sealer after paint?

If I were to guess and don't forget I'm no fiberglass wizard or body guy...it would go, paint-gel coat-seam sealer. But then I'd be worried that the seam sealer would be a different color than the paint. I doubt they sell seam sealer in Cygnus white Doesn't seem like you'd want to gel coat or paint over seam sealer but what do I know...

Hey mate, I'm a boatbuilder here in New Zealand. I wouldn't recommend gelcoat. It's best applied to a waxed mould so when you apply it to the outside of a product you have to add in wax and styrene so that it doesn't stay sticky. You then will be left with a very matte finish and the orange peel from the gun. You have to then wet sand it in stages up to 2000g and polish it up. If you sand through you'll need to do it all again as touch ups are not flawless. I've you've ever looked at and old gelcoat boat (even a few years old) you'll see the gelcoat is dull and porous and maybe cracked. Not worth the effort in my opinion.
A good quality automotive or marine paint will be easier, faster and give you less heartache at the end of the day.

 

[kkt]

CCOT and SOR both sell a reproduction seal between the roof cap and the hardtop sides. Those are probably the best alternative unless you want to spend $250 from Toyota. I've heard of people using garage door seals but I think The CCOT and SOR parts are probably cheap enough to avoid screwing around with Home Depot parts! I'm picking up another hardtop tomorrow for the sides and may end up with a spare seal.

Has anyone used the ccot or sor kit mentioned if so what did you think of the products

 

[Flatlanderfj40]

Has anyone used the ccot or sor kit mentioned if so what did you think of the products

I’m getting ready to go down this road. I’ve been told to steer clear of the CCOT weatherstripping. My truck came with one. If you want it I’ll sell it for $50, PM me.

I’ll be going OEM route with everything possible and this thread was a huge help in sorting out steps I need to take. Thanks.

 

[swelltimes]

You're making this way too complicated!

You only need to use gecoat if the fiberglass needs it. Don't waste your time if the glass is in good shape.

Use a good quality seam sealer and follow the manufacturer directions. Seam sealer does not takes months or even weeks to cure. If it does, you did something wrong.

Use a good quality epoxy primer regardless of whether or not you gel coat.

The rest is up to you depending on what you want the finished product to look like. If you want it straight and smooth, spray some high build primer and block it before paining. If not, you can shoot it with your compatible topcoat right over the epoxy primer (again, following the manufacturers instructions)

@Splangy and others: how would you classify "fiberglass in good shape?" I've had to fill a couple of holes and big gouges in my top, and sanded it down to clean off an old, lousy paint job.