How-To: TechStream In 5 Minutes (17 Viewers)

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Need some background before we can help you out. What system are you on, what have you done so far.

Have you enabled the USB port
Have you installed the drivers for your cable
Have you gone into the main menu and changed the cable selection

A few screenshots would be helpful.
 
Need some background before we can help you out. What system are you on, what have you done so far.

Have you enabled the USB port
Have you installed the drivers for your cable
Have you gone into the main menu and changed the cable selection

A few screenshots would be helpful.
Was able to get techstream to work on a dedicated windows 10 64bit OS 😭 much easier than trying to figure out the Mac. We are on our way!! Just need to figure out how to use this software now
 
TechStream v18.00 – working & connected - how I did it.

After several (many), false starts, dead-ends, and a few peeks into sketchy corners of the internet – TechStream is up and working for my ’21 LC200 LE. Thought it might be helpful to lay out the path that ended up working for me. I'm sure there are easier ways, but this was my not-so-easy way

Again, this is not the “Easy” button in any way, or the 5min solution. The beginning of this thread seems to have the easy way covered – but that was only for TechStream v12. I wanted the latest TechStream version I could run so it captured everything with my ’21.

[Note: Yes, I tried converting the Mac-based VM for TechStream v17 (UTM file) into something that worked on a PC-Based VM, but that was a dead end for me after several attempts at different VM clients, conversion software, etc.. Maybe this 65 page thread had the answer somewhere, but I couldn’t find it.]

Here is my setup & path

Basics / System / Setup:
  1. PC / Machine: 8 year old Lenovo X1 Carbon Gen 3 laptop. Running Windows 10 Pro (old work laptop). Lives in the garage – if it totally dies or gets corrupted, no biggie to me.
  2. All of the below was done using a Virtual Machine (VM) – running on VMware Workstation 17 Player. Most of the connections to different websites were done via VPNs from inside the VMs. The why will become apparent below.
  3. VM – I started with a plain vanilla Windows 10 Enterprise LTSC VM image that was working. This came from getting my Volvo’s VIDA system up and going (VIDA is Volvo’s equivalent to Toyota’s TechStream). Got it here https://volvodiag.com/ for $5
TechStream:
  1. Found a downloadable source for TechStream V18 in the forum below (begin journey to sketchy internet places) https://mhhauto.com/Thread-TOYOTA-Techstream-V18-00-008-02-2023-Activation
  2. First post on the above forum thread has the download link as: Яндекс - https://disk.yandex.ru/d/_RosgIIDNM9vrQ (Yes, that is dot .ru of Russia fame)
  3. Had to set up an account on Yandex.ru to get a “disk” account, and then could download the file (this is the second step down an internet dark alley) Suggest having some ‘disposable’ e-mail addresses ready – and again, ALL of this was done inside the VM. Also, handy to have one of the “autotranslate” browser extensions working as Yandex is natively Russian.
  4. Downloaded (into VM ONLY – not into any real machine) Techstream v18 from the yandex.ru link above.
  5. Installed TechStream on VM, ran it, and it Opened!! YAY. However, no software key.
  6. Back to mhhauto.com. It seems you can “post” your software ID on the forums in mhhauto.com, and someone somewhere has a software key generator that works. However, to “post”, you first need to “register” an account with mhhauto.com. Registration costs $30 or 200RMB. Few methods to pay (PayPal being one), and yes, it appears you are sending this website “registration” payment to China (third step into internet dark corners).
  7. Once you pay the $30, half a day later or so you will get an e-mail with a “Registration ID”. You can use this to set up your account on mhhauto.com to be able to post
  8. Same thread mentioned in #1 above, post the TechStream Software ID that comes up when you open TechStream (again in the VM) to the mhhauto.com forum thread. Half a day or so, a nameless post responds with a software “key”
  9. Start TechStream, and put said key into the blank field in TechStream. Voila – it worked! I was shocked quite frankly. I saved the Software ID and Key in a text file I’ve kept on the VM’s desktop.
Hardware / ODBII to PC connection
  1. I had previously purchased a “Super J2534” vehicle to USB cable as part of my Volvo VIDA project. Reading a lot of the posts on this forum, it seems a ton of problems arise from cheapie / knockoff of knockoff hardware. So, was happy I’d spent probably more than I needed to have a pseudo-reputable vehicle to USB cable. You can find it here: https://d5t5.com/eshop/detail/180/super-j2534-volvo-dice-9513000-replacement
  2. This ships from Czech Republic and was remarkably fast shipping – like 5 days or so when I selected the next up from cheapest shipping option (recall $30 or so). I was impressed.
  3. You MUST download & install the driver for the cable. It is on the same page as the cable above (the d5t5.com site). Make sure to install this INSIDE the VM. I installed the driver on both the VM and the actual machine just for belt & suspenders to make sure the PC 'saw' the USB device. This was the only software that “crosses” over between the actual PC machine and the Virtual Machine
TWO important details regarding getting the Vehicle to USB cable working.
  • In the VM, you must make sure its ‘showing up’. In VMware 17 player, do this by the following menu tree
    • Player -> Removable Devices -> Drew Technologies Inc. -> Connect (disconnect from host)
    • It will give you a notification box that its going to disconnect & reconnect. Click “OK”
  • In TechStream – this menu tree to select the right Vehicle to USB cable
    • Setup -> VIM Select. It will open a box
    • Top pull down labeled “Interface Set” – select “MongoosePro JLR”
After all that - it WORKS! Celebrated by customizing my keyfob unlock to roll down all the windows and open the sunroof with a long press of the unlock button.

Again, given some of these places / forums – be really careful in terms of internet security. That said, nothing overtly sinister popped up or occurred (yet). But – proceed at your own risk.

Lastly – TechStream runs somewhat slow, be patient. Old laptop, with a Virtual Machine, with a probably bloated piece of software – it is understandable.

If you head down this path, good luck. Let us know how it works. Hope this helps a few other people.
 
This guy legit? Three posts? .ru program? @linuxgod and other techies please chime in.

EDIT: screenshot from url check below. I don’t know if it’s 100% or not.

IMG_2308.png


IMG_2309.png
 
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This guy legit? Three posts? .ru program? @linuxgod and other techies please chime in

Understand the skepticism. I'm not into social media / on-line stuff that much, so don't post much. So, makes sense that I don't have much by way of keyboard 'kred on this forum. Much rather be doing stuff than keyboarding stuff. Maximizing my "out there doing stuff" time vs. "screen time" - good for the soul.

Read a good amount however here on 'Mud and appreciate everyone's contribution. Wonderfully knowledgeable group and everyone seems to want to help. Which was why I took the time to write up my long post. Thought it might help someone if they wanted to get TechStream V18 working.

And, yes, I am legit - Denver CO, near the Chamberlain Observatory, southeast of University of Denver - and mountain place south of Wolcott, CO. If you see a dark metallic gray '21 LE with Slee sliders, FrontRunner, Pelican cargo boxes, KO2s, and a big Kuat bike rack on the back - thats me.

Again, just posted my journey to getting V18 up and going in the event it helps someone with decent (not 'god') tech skills want to follow the same path. Again, carefully, inside VMs, etc. And, if anyone is nearby Denver and wants to see v18 connected on their 'cruiser, give me a shout.
 
First post from UK - I'm a Toyota RAV4 2014 (Business Edition) owner. I just want to say a big thanks to the OP for posting the working image and to the rest of the poster who have assisted everyone. After some difficulty (mainly with registering the licence key, I've managed to set it up.

However does anyone know how I can figure out what engine variant my vehicle is? It seems that Techstream details the model code and vehicle spec fine, but then asks for a whole list of baffling options and I don't know what to choose. This is the screens I get:

1727034179944.jpeg
 
Getting Techstream up and running can be a bit of a pain. Hopefully this helps someone get started quickly.

Step 1: Purchase an OBD-II / Mini-VCI interface.
- I have sold out of my cables and supply chains are back in order, so no reason to purchase more. Anything like this will work: Mini-VCI cable on eBay

Step 2: Download Hypervisor
Step 3: Install Software You Just Downloaded
  • Windows: Double-Click downloaded file
  • MacOS:
    • Intel Mac: Double-Click downloaded file, run installer
    • M1/M2 Mac: Double-Click downloaded file, drag to Applications folder

Step 4: Download TechStream Image:
- Windows / Intel Mac: LINK
- M1/M2 Mac: LINK

Step 5: Double-Click downloaded file.

Connect & Enjoy.

:santa:

-g

Edit (04/08/18): I removed the more expensive cable, as I received a new Mini-VCI cable that works 100% at 1/4 the cost.
Edit (02/28/21): Updated links to new versions of Virtualbox & new link to cheap Mini-VCI cable
Edit (10/30/22): M1 Compatible workflow / updated virtualbox links
Where can I find a none .ova version of Techstream that will open and run on my Windows 7, 32 bit that is running without Virtual Box and stuff. The version shown here is a .ova file and requires all that stuff be installed just to open it
 
First post from UK - I'm a Toyota RAV4 2014 (Business Edition) owner. I just want to say a big thanks to the OP for posting the working image and to the rest of the poster who have assisted everyone. After some difficulty (mainly with registering the licence key, I've managed to set it up.

However does anyone know how I can figure out what engine variant my vehicle is? It seems that Techstream details the model code and vehicle spec fine, but then asks for a whole list of baffling options and I don't know what to choose. This is the screens I get:

View attachment 3732330
Sorry guys for bumping this, but can anyone please help me?
 
Sorry guys for bumping this, but can anyone please help me?
this isn't to say that no one here will know what you need, but this particular forum is dedicated to 100-series LC/LX, so I'd imagine that you might have better luck with someplace that is focused on Rav4s.

Just looking at that list, it looks like your options could possibly be related to production date (numeric part of those codes) and which drivetrain option you have (the FTV vs FHV makes me think one might be for the hybrid drivetrain). If your "1ADFTV" vehicle spec in the box above is accurate, I'd wager that the "1212-, 1ADFTV" would be the most likely option to select as that appears to be the only one relevant to the 1ADFTV. I could also be WAY off here.
 
Sorry guys for bumping this, but can anyone please help me?
Your best best to narrow down what you have is to go to partsouq.com and enter your vin. That should point you to what you have under the hood. And/or do so on Toyotas website. Also, usually the engine itself has some number plate on it.
 
Thanks so much @jaewastooshort and @whitec13 for your excellent advice.

Unless I'm looking in the wrong place, the Toyota website only provided very basic info such as model name and number plate. However the partsouq.com website gave the following info:

1727440664256.png
 
Thanks so much @jaewastooshort and @whitec13 for your excellent advice.

Unless I'm looking in the wrong place, the Toyota website only provided very basic info such as model name and number plate. However the partsouq.com website gave the following info:

View attachment 3736292
Did that give you what you need to select the correct option? It looks like the data to the left of the engine model in techstream is the production date code range. With your production period being 1212-1510, I’d say @jaewastooshort was spot on with his wager.
 
Did that give you what you need to select the correct option? It looks like the data to the left of the engine model in techstream is the production date code range. With your production period being 1212-1510, I’d say @jaewastooshort was spot on with his wager.
I was a bit apprehensive and wanted to play it safe to ensure I don't mess up anything. One thing I'm unclear is you've mentioned 1212-1510, but @jaewastooshort has actually mentioned 1212-, 1ADFTV. So which one should I go for?
 
I was a bit apprehensive and wanted to play it safe to ensure I don't mess up anything. One thing I'm unclear is you've mentioned 1212-1510, but @jaewastooshort has actually mentioned 1212-, 1ADFTV. So which one should I go for?
So the date is baked into that number. 1212 being 2012 December and 1510 being 2015 October, which partsouq indicates as your production date range. I would assume the open ended 1212-, indicates it is a to the end of production run. I would say you are safe to click on the 1212-, 1ADFTV option.
 
So the date is baked into that number. 1212 being 2012 December and 1510 being 2015 October, which partsouq indicates as your production date range. I would assume the open ended 1212-, indicates it is a to the end of production run. I would say you are safe to click on the 1212-, 1ADFTV option.
That was my impression as well. Assuming those were date codes, the second number would refer to when there was a change in production that would have had some change impacting how TechStream interfaced with that particular model, and so an open-ended date code would run through the end of production.

Glad you were able to find more info on partsouq, and also glad that it seems to validate my guess. I hate giving bad advice.
 
So the date is baked into that number. 1212 being 2012 December and 1510 being 2015 October, which partsouq indicates as your production date range. I would assume the open ended 1212-, indicates it is a to the end of production run. I would say you are safe to click on the 1212-, 1ADFTV option.
That was my impression as well. Assuming those were date codes, the second number would refer to when there was a change in production that would have had some change impacting how TechStream interfaced with that particular model, and so an open-ended date code would run through the end of production.

Glad you were able to find more info on partsouq, and also glad that it seems to validate my guess. I hate giving bad advice.

Thanks so much guys. I've now tested techstream and it shows all the relevant features. The only issue is that when I go to the Engine option and try to view live data, it certainly shows up, but after approx 40-60 seconds, techstream totally crashes/closes without showing any error.

Also on a separate note, do you know how I can clear the DPF filter using techstream?
 
Re: DPF, I have no clue

just found out that the disk that was sent with my cable is entirely blank... guess I'm looking at downloading techstream somewhere else. anyway, even after being told that "there is no working virtual machine for M2 macbooks" by someone I would expect to know, I was heartened by @youngjeezy 's account of getting it to work, and it looks like I'm about there with running an instance of WinXP. hopefully I'll get techstream going tonight so I can continue my baseline on my suspension tomorrow, but so far it's looking good. UTM's website is quite helpful in getting everything set up so far.
 
Re: DPF, I have no clue

just found out that the disk that was sent with my cable is entirely blank... guess I'm looking at downloading techstream somewhere else. anyway, even after being told that "there is no working virtual machine for M2 macbooks" by someone I would expect to know, I was heartened by @youngjeezy 's account of getting it to work, and it looks like I'm about there with running an instance of WinXP. hopefully I'll get techstream going tonight so I can continue my baseline on my suspension tomorrow, but so far it's looking good. UTM's website is quite helpful in getting everything set up so far.
See PM
 
Well, after having it working last night, now I'm getting a screen trying to force me to update and/or put in a new activation key every time I try to open it. Wish I could figure out what I was doing different last night.

edit: I think I may have gotten it figured out. However, when I go through the customize options menus (like turning off the auto tilt/tele retraction feature), the program crashes every time I try to access "light control" options
 
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