PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Post a video with the noise.
How To: Replace your own steering rack (1 Viewer)
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Vehicle is at dealer and unfortunately I couldn't film it because I needed to be driving to make it happen . Almost always happens when pulling into parking spot or at full wheel lock to the left.
Can't believe the dealer said that's normal lol
This is mot my video but it kind of sounds like this and doesn't really happen unless the vehicle is in motion , liken pulling into a parking spot .
>>https://imgur.io/a/jDrFNPG#49guHgP
I mean what else could be causing that issue . Lower ball joints have been replaced in last few years . New steering rack , tie rods, cv , flanges ,bearings ,etc.
My guess is they didn't torque something down properly but any other ideas ? Toyota says it's totally normal lol
>>https://imgur.io/a/jDrFNPG#49guHgP
I mean what else could be causing that issue . Lower ball joints have been replaced in last few years . New steering rack , tie rods, cv , flanges ,bearings ,etc.
My guess is they didn't torque something down properly but any other ideas ? Toyota says it's totally normal lol
Do check torque's including wheel lugs, rack, TRE, links & bushings and shocks. Also check ball joints, including the shafts is firmly seated.
When ball joint replace (non OEM) the 555 are used very often. It's important the boots be removed to press them in. All to often, the boots are not removed. We then see them fail! If ball joint not torqued to spec. The shaft may not have fully have seated.
When ball joint replace (non OEM) the 555 are used very often. It's important the boots be removed to press them in. All to often, the boots are not removed. We then see them fail! If ball joint not torqued to spec. The shaft may not have fully have seated.
Thanks. I'll have them check it all over. I did use the 555 lowers and they have held up nicely .
The reality is my front end has been apart several times recently between the rack and CV an bearing jobs ( and a stripped lug needed to be replaced )
The problem didn't exist prior to the steering rack repair , I gotta imagine something isn tight .
Q: why did Toyota tell me to grease my steering stops lol
They sent me this pic and said this is where it's contacting. Any idea of how to fix this issue other than slapping some grease on it ? Is that normal procedure ?
I believe those adjusters are as far out as possible.
It was suggested that we tighten them down enough so it doesn't contact anymore but Toyota warned me the rack might over extend . Is that possible ? When I first bought that truck it didn't even have those stoppers installed , I put them in and just kept the at their max adjustment ..
I've never had an issue until the steering rack swap. They assure me the rack is centered and everything was torqued down properly, which I agree now that I've seen the issue.
I'm not sure what to do. any ideas ? If we just snug that stopper down enough to not contact could that stress the rack out for any reason ?
It was suggested that we tighten them down enough so it doesn't contact anymore but Toyota warned me the rack might over extend . Is that possible ? When I first bought that truck it didn't even have those stoppers installed , I put them in and just kept the at their max adjustment ..
I've never had an issue until the steering rack swap. They assure me the rack is centered and everything was torqued down properly, which I agree now that I've seen the issue.
I'm not sure what to do. any ideas ? If we just snug that stopper down enough to not contact could that stress the rack out for any reason ?
It puzzles me that you didn't have that noise before the new rack job. There is a cure if it is really a stopper noise but I don't know if this is the size you need.
www.marlincrawler.com
Spindle Steering Stop Cap | Marlin Crawler, Inc.
Genuine Toyota Spindle Steering Stop Cap for 1986-1995 Independent Front Torsion Bar Suspensions. These factory plastic caps go over your steering limit-stop bolts and insulate them from th...
They told me the old rack ( which was a reman that they installed ) wasn't centered and didn't turn as far . I get how s*** works down there but since I didn't install i'm not super knowledgeable with centering the rack. Didn't even think that was a thing .It puzzles me that you didn't have that noise before the new rack job. There is a cure if it is really a stopper noise but I don't know if this is the size you need.
Spindle Steering Stop Cap | Marlin Crawler, Inc.
Genuine Toyota Spindle Steering Stop Cap for 1986-1995 Independent Front Torsion Bar Suspensions. These factory plastic caps go over your steering limit-stop bolts and insulate them from th...
There were some rare occasions that I thought I heard a similar noise , It was very seldom and I told myself it was my CVs popping . Just replaced those last month along with the rack and then this sucker started popping at full turn
The pic they sent me does look like it's got some contact marks that didn't exist before so I suppose thats the culprit. But idk how to fix the problem
I'll look into that part link you sent, thanks . I just don't see why a bandaid fix like that Is needed, is this contact / noise normal?
If greasing the knuckle-stops, changes the sound. Then likely is cause of new sound.
The 555 do change the relationship of knuckle to LCA just a tad. I've never looked at stops hit point, after 555 install. But that "may" have contributed. That and a fresh alignment after rack.
100 series at stock height, stops usually do not bind. But lifted, even by cranking on T-bars past spec. The stops may hit high, and sometimes bind. If sound is only when turning to stop (fully to lock) in one direction. Then you may not by properly cross leveled and or aligned.
Setting higher caster, will also bind knuckle-stops. I see this with SPC UCA & UBJ, which kicks up caster. A test of caster set high, like above 3 degrees. I find is; as I drive down the HWY it tracks (no wondering) very nicely. But as I go to change lanes, it yanks off center (straight) abruptly.
Many installing over-sized tires. Adjust knuckle stops out as far as they can, to reduce tire rub on inner fender. I've seen a few knuckle stops missing, from adjusting out to far and or not locking them down. Out to far will not hurt rack & pinion. I'll also say; I've not seen damage, from missing stops. But understand; I'm not saying removing will not damage rack. Personally I'd not remove or turn in, passed FSM spec.
BTW: Rack & pinion before mounting bolts torqued down. Move a few MM left or right of center. I always try to center best I can, before torquing.
The 555 do change the relationship of knuckle to LCA just a tad. I've never looked at stops hit point, after 555 install. But that "may" have contributed. That and a fresh alignment after rack.
100 series at stock height, stops usually do not bind. But lifted, even by cranking on T-bars past spec. The stops may hit high, and sometimes bind. If sound is only when turning to stop (fully to lock) in one direction. Then you may not by properly cross leveled and or aligned.
Setting higher caster, will also bind knuckle-stops. I see this with SPC UCA & UBJ, which kicks up caster. A test of caster set high, like above 3 degrees. I find is; as I drive down the HWY it tracks (no wondering) very nicely. But as I go to change lanes, it yanks off center (straight) abruptly.
Many installing over-sized tires. Adjust knuckle stops out as far as they can, to reduce tire rub on inner fender. I've seen a few knuckle stops missing, from adjusting out to far and or not locking them down. Out to far will not hurt rack & pinion. I'll also say; I've not seen damage, from missing stops. But understand; I'm not saying removing will not damage rack. Personally I'd not remove or turn in, passed FSM spec.
BTW: Rack & pinion before mounting bolts torqued down. Move a few MM left or right of center. I always try to center best I can, before torquing.
Appreciated .
They did mention they adjusted the torsion bars just a smidge to help with level. Maybe they over did it. I told them don't exceed 21 inches from hub to fender . I believe I've seen reference to about 19" being stock and not wanting to exceed 21", hope that's close to true.
Stock size tires , all OEM parts , almost all front end is new.
I think you're on to something with torsion bar adjustment since that's something they just touched . I'm going to assume the rack is centered and toqued properly and everything is good there just based on seeing the contact marks and the pics they showed. Definetly appears to be the culprit here , now to find the fix . I'll suggest they check torsion bar / ride height / alignment .
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Kalispell Toyota .
Spoke with a speciality alignment shop and going to get it sent over there. In Toyota's defense, and my surprise, the alignment shop also said it's not uncommon for this to happen on these rigs and also suggested slapping some grease on it ! Lol he also agreed that's just a bandaid fix and is hopeful they can get it adjusted properly to not make the pop.
I could understand if I was off roading at full tilt or had a lift and big tires and I heard some pops . But come on, full stock right eith OEM parts and everytime I pull into a parking space I've got to hear metal on metal popping from my front end . Booooooo
Sorry no video or audio if this noise but if this is an issue anyone else is up against you can probably see visible wear marks on the stopper. The fix is still unknown, maybe just suck the stopper in more to clear the problem.
Q: Does anyone have a spec / measurement on what those stoppers on the lower control arm are supposed to be set at , or is it more if something you do visually based on where the rack extends to . Any harm in just sucking them in until it doesn't contact ?
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Red Beard
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@Mike NXP I had that sound before and after I did a lot of front end parts, including the steering rack. So I don’t think there’s anything wrong with the new rack.
Unfortunately, I still have the sound. After reading through a couple other front end pop threads, I’ve been thinking it’s the Lower Control Arm bushing No 2. For you, it’s possible your new rack is all nice and tight, plus a nice new alignment, that bushing is now getting more torsion?
The shop I bring my cruiser to made it seem like that sound must be some bushing but they couldn’t narrow it down without doing a lot of work.
Unfortunately, I still have the sound. After reading through a couple other front end pop threads, I’ve been thinking it’s the Lower Control Arm bushing No 2. For you, it’s possible your new rack is all nice and tight, plus a nice new alignment, that bushing is now getting more torsion?
The shop I bring my cruiser to made it seem like that sound must be some bushing but they couldn’t narrow it down without doing a lot of work.
Agreed, I think the bushing or torque on those control arm mounting bolts can very well be a factor.
In my case , I can see the wear marks on the stopper and can see where it is contacting.
Now to figure out how to solve it. My guess is rack not centered or torsion bar cross level not set right .
Speciality alignment shop just told me to slap some grease on it. Are these people nuts ? This vehicle has driven 230k miles without ever making that noise.
Anyone out there have a pic of where the stoppers are set on your rig / proper procedure to set those ? I'm wondering if maybe I can get away with just sucking them in another inch or so with the hopes it clears whatever it's hitting .
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
The intent of the limiters (stoppers) is to limit how far the steering assembly is able to turn. At full lock with the limiters either removed or fulling screwed in, you will get a straining pump noise. I believe the FSM has a procedure for adjusting the limiters out to a point where at full lock the straining noise is not occurring. While it is possible that these could cause a noise when you are at full lock, they should not be engaged at any other time.
Understood, thanks . I'm still puzzled why it's contacting . Something's not right .
Happening mostly on driver side under normal conditions . Anything at full lock and then a tap of the brakes or anything that shifts the weight and it contacts/ binds / pops
I think my only solution is going to be to turn those adjuster in an inch or so and hope it doesn't screw anything up.
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
I mean if you are at full lock and it is contacting it sounds like it is operating as it should? Maybe I am missing the original issue.
Maybe this will help, I tweaked the color a bit and you can see it better. It supposed to contact flush and kind of hit that flat part of the metal. But for some reason you can see to the left of that circle it's getting snagged up and starting to chip away at the metal only after a few turns.
Something is seemingly a few degrees off and it's not lining up right , it's like an inch or two off from where it should contact. Hard to accept " just grease it " as a solution . Any ideas ? I begged the alignment guy today to take another look .....
Sorry for taking over this thread , someone else must have encountered this.
