How To: Replace your own steering rack (1 Viewer)

[twosmoker]

Thanks for the tips @2001LC, I finally broke it free on the third pitman puller, took it a little slower with lots of heat and hammering. I was able to get the puller on without removing the dust shield by pulling the front bolt on the knuckle and and loosing the back and rotating the steering knuckle up as mentioned in the PDF instructions. The pitman puller from O'rielly's was just slightly beefier than Autozones.

This job was a bear. I couldn't get the jam nuts loose on the TRE so I gave up and took an angle grinder to the inner tie rod, this gave me more room to work with on the removal which was a bonus. Broke a crow foot trying to get the rerun line out so took a multi tool to that, luckily amazon had the return line with 1 day delivery. I gave up on separating the shaft at the pump and opted for the two bolts behind the firewall; I should have done this to begin with, it would have saved me an hour. Even out of the car it was a pain getting the shaft off.

I was hoping to tackle the ball joints while I was at it but unfortunately I found my newish OEM CV axels had torn inner booths on both axels . I'll tackle that when I get a new boot kit.

 

[hoser]

If you can't get the TRE off, you can unbolt the steering arm/knuckle itself. But if you are replacing your TRE's... you'll have to separate them one way or another.

 

[Dryhop]

Thanks to all the contributors on this thread. 2000 LX470 w/ 316k miles and rack was leaking from the linkage seal. I have the old rack out and waiting on delivery of replacement rack and parts. When measuring the old rack on removal, I found it was not perfectly centered (when the steering wheel was straight. Instead of reinstalling matching the measurements below, my plan will be to center the steering wheel and center the rack and cross my fingers. (Please let me know if any concerns)... I'll post up my results upon completion (after I get an alignment).

I don't recall if when driving, the steering wheel had more turns to the Passenger side.

Measurements from old rack upon removal:

initial threads showing above lock nut: P: 9 D: 11
edge of boot to end: P: 10 1/8" D: 10 5/8"
linkage turns to stop: P: 2 turns D: 1 3/4 turns

 

[abuck99]

I think I would ensure the steering wheel was centered first, FSM recommends to remove steering wheel ( although no-one does that). I think its easier than counting threads if you count the number of full rotations to remove the outer TR and re-install new to the same number of turns and just make sure they are near equal on both sides then take it for an alignment. Also FSM recommends Zero Point Calibration be performed. FYI each full rotation of the outer TRE is equal to 12 degrees of steering wheel alignment.

 

[Ayune]

For a 2000, when you disconnect the steering shaft from the rack the steering wheel is free to turn 360… limited of course by destroying the clock spring under the airbag, so don’t do that.

Steering wheel centering is accomplished by adjusting how the spines mate between the steering shaft and the rack input shaft. First center the rack so you’ll have equal turns left & right, then adjust the shaft mating to center the steering wheel. Fine alignment/adjustment is then done via the TREs at your alignment shop. But the rack should start in the centered position.

Vehicles with VGRS can of course adjust the steering wheel alignment independent of the steering shaft & rack, by using Techstream. So steering shaft-to-rack spline mating is not critical.

 

[abuck99]

For a 2000, when you disconnect the steering shaft from the rack the steering wheel is free to turn 360… limited of course by destroying the clock spring under the airbag, so don’t do that.

Steering wheel centering is accomplished by adjusting how the spines mate between the steering shaft and the rack input shaft. First center the rack so you’ll have equal turns left & right, then adjust the shaft mating to center the steering wheel. Fine alignment/adjustment is then done via the TREs at your alignment shop. But the rack should start in the centered position.

Vehicles with VGRS can of course adjust the steering wheel alignment independent of the steering shaft & rack, by using Techstream. So steering shaft-to-rack spline mating is not critical.

Good advice on the clock spring- I think that is why FSM says to remove steering wheel. But locking in place should work.

 

[Dryhop]

Good advice on the clock spring- I think that is why FSM says to remove steering wheel. But locking in place should work.

Thanks for the quick and detailed feedback. I'd secured my steering wheel, so should be able to get it close. My OEM parts arrive Sunday. Reassembly will be fun and on completion I'm going to claim my promotion to a certified "2-banana" mechanic. Then, onward and upward taking on Timing Belt and related components.

 

[abuck99]

If replacing inner TR- check FSM for the torque spec-( if you have a tool to torque the ITR). Make sure to use a new locking washer if your ITR didn’t come with one.

 

[bdruff]

Couldn't find this if it was answered already, but I'm looking for the part number for the large bushing. 45517-60010, Large Rubber Bushing (upgrade to poly if desired)

I have a 2003 LX470. Some sites say that this will fit, some say that it won't. Anybody have an alternative part number for 2003 and later?

Thanks... gathering parts to do this week. This thread has been really good

 

[2001LC]

Couldn't find this if it was answered already, but I'm looking for the part number for the large bushing. 45517-60010, Large Rubber Bushing (upgrade to poly if desired)

I have a 2003 LX470. Some sites say that this will fit, some say that it won't. Anybody have an alternative part number for 2003 and later?

Thanks... gathering parts to do this week. This thread has been really good

03-07 do not use the large 45517-60010 horseshoe bushing.
98-02 do use the large 45517-60010 horseshoe bushing.

 

[bdruff]

Looking for some advise...

I've been leaking fluid for a while and there was some clunking when driving on a bumpy road, like something is loose and moving around in the suspension. There is an alarm that also goes off and activates the ABS on turns. Reading through the forum, I was sure the rack and pinion needed to be replaced.

We have had this truck for a long time and now it's mostly used as a rescue transport vehicle for animals so I didn't want to put a lot of money into it with almost 300,000 miles.

I opted for a used rack off eBay because it came out of a 2003 just like mine, looked like it wasn't the stock rack but still OEM. (Too clean), and was only $260 tax and shipped with free return offered.

So yesterday, I jumped in. Suck level was high but 7 hours later, it's all back together. Thank you for everyone in this thread. I didn't have any real problems during the process.

But now, the problem is worse.

It's not leaking anymore and there is no clunking like something is loose, but the alarm is still going off, now all the time. Really disappointing.

I tied the steering wheel down so it wouldn't move. I counted threads on both TREs and matched them. (The passenger side only had 2 threads while the drivers side had 16)

Could it be something else? Wheel bearings maybe?

Should I take the rack out again, return it, and buy a new one? Maybe have mine rebuilt?

Frustrated and looking for direction...

 

[bdruff]

My local Lexus dealership said that the rack was discontinued. They gave me a new part number 44250-60120 and said I would also need new outer tie rods. They quoted me $2,003 for parts.

edit: When I put my VIN # in, 44250-60120 doesn't fit. 44200-60120 is the correct part number but shows discontinued. Back to square one.

 

[abuck99]

Looking for some advise...

I've been leaking fluid for a while and there was some clunking when driving on a bumpy road, like something is loose and moving around in the suspension. There is an alarm that also goes off and activates the ABS on turns. Reading through the forum, I was sure the rack and pinion needed to be replaced.

We have had this truck for a long time and now it's mostly used as a rescue transport vehicle for animals so I didn't want to put a lot of money into it with almost 300,000 miles.

I opted for a used rack off eBay because it came out of a 2003 just like mine, looked like it wasn't the stock rack but still OEM. (Too clean), and was only $260 tax and shipped with free return offered.

So yesterday, I jumped in. Suck level was high but 7 hours later, it's all back together. Thank you for everyone in this thread. I didn't have any real problems during the process.

But now, the problem is worse.

It's not leaking anymore and there is no clunking like something is loose, but the alarm is still going off, now all the time. Really disappointing.

I tied the steering wheel down so it wouldn't move. I counted threads on both TREs and matched them. (The passenger side only had 2 threads while the drivers side had 16)

Could it be something else? Wheel bearings maybe?

Should I take the rack out again, return it, and buy a new one? Maybe have mine rebuilt?

Frustrated and looking for direction...

You first need to perform a zero point calibration after any steering work- search the forum for that procedure. If the alarm is still going off- after that, you can check wheel bearings for play( search) and then check wheel speed sensors.

 

[2001LC]

My local Lexus dealership said that the rack was discontinued. They gave me a new part number 44250-60120 and said I would also need new outer tie rods. They quoted me $2,003 for parts.

edit: When I put my VIN # in, 44250-60120 doesn't fit. 44200-60120 is the correct part number but shows discontinued. Back to square one.

I assume you punch in VIN # at partsouq. Make sure you scroll down the page. It show 44250-0120 as sub, which is correct for LX. They are available! Some use the LC R&P in LX, to save some $$. There is a difference. But we really do not know, what the difference is.
LX 03-07 w/VGRS (all USA 03-07 LX have VGRS)

LC 03-07 44250-60100

 

[abuck99]

My local Lexus dealership said that the rack was discontinued. They gave me a new part number 44250-60120 and said I would also need new outer tie rods. They quoted me $2,003 for parts.

edit: When I put my VIN # in, 44250-60120 doesn't fit. 44200-60120 is the correct part number but shows discontinued. Back to square one.

Fits 03 to 07 LX470- in stock

This is Lexus parts website is full retail- find a dealer who will discount it

2003 Lexus LX 470 Gear assembly, power steering(for rack & pinion). Brakes, suspension - 4425060120 - Genuine Lexus Part

Gear assembly, power steering(for rack & pinion). Brakes, suspension. 2003 Lexus LX 470. Genuine Lexus Part - 4425060120 (4420060120, 44250-60120)

parts.lexus.com

 

[bdruff]

You first need to perform a zero point calibration after any steering work- search the forum for that procedure. If the alarm is still going off- after that, you can check wheel bearings for play( search) and then check wheel speed sensors.

I used techstream to calibrate my VGRS. Is that what you meant by zero point calibration?

After, I couldn't get the alarm to come back on. I did notice that when I hooked up techstream, a message about zero point calibration deceleration sensor unplugged (Or something to that effect) There were no sensors on the rack that I unplugged though.

It feels like it needs an alignment bad, but other than that, no alarms. I'll try an alignment and go from there. I have several weeks where I can return the rack if needed.

The rack on partsouk is still well over $1,000. That will be a last resort if the alignment doesn't fix everything.

Thanks again for all the help here.

edit: Found zero point calibration in another thread. I did see these in Techstream

Zero point calibration please

Hi all, I need to do zero point calibration. I have done it successfully before last major overhaul but for the life of me I couldn’t find the instructions anymore. Tried searching through pieces of my FSM and this forums but I just couldn’t find it. I am looking for the reset procedure that is...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[2001LC]

I used techstream to calibrate my VGRS. Is that what you meant by zero point calibration?

After, I couldn't get the alarm to come back on. I did notice that when I hooked up techstream, a message about zero point calibration deceleration sensor unplugged (Or something to that effect) There were no sensors on the rack that I unplugged though.

It feels like it needs an alignment bad, but other than that, no alarms. I'll try an alignment and go from there. I have several weeks where I can return the rack if needed.

The rack on partsouk is still well over $1,000. That will be a last resort if the alignment doesn't fix everything.

Thanks again for all the help here.

edit: Found zero point calibration in another thread. I did see these in Techstream

Zero point calibration please

Hi all, I need to do zero point calibration. I have done it successfully before last major overhaul but for the life of me I couldn’t find the instructions anymore. Tried searching through pieces of my FSM and this forums but I just couldn’t find it. I am looking for the reset procedure that is...

forum.ih8mud.com

I found in the 03LX. That when "zero point undone (found in TS under ABS)" VGRS can't be completely calibrate. Redo all calibrations starting with ABS ZP, to see how system behaves. Than again after R&P and alignment.

I've also found that most Lexus Dealership, are short cutting the TBS Snap ring recall procedure.
Two of the short cuts, of concern:

• They are not replacing the seal at firewall. Which helps seal air/fumes from getting in cabin from engine bay.
• They're not doing a complete calibration of ABS Zero Point & VRGS system. They just reset steering angle (I've 03LX, they didn't even do that.)

Under certain condition. VGRS will be off (locked) without VGRS light being on.
To make sure VGRS is active. With engine idling while parked. Turn steering wheel lock to lock. You'll get about 2.4 turns, when VGRS active. If you get ~3.5 turns, VGRS is OFF (not active).

Calibration Key points:

After battery disconnected. Drive at ~25 MPH to get a "VALID" flag (found in TS VGRS data stream):
STRAIGHT ANG FLG *1
*1 This data must read valid before proceeding with any steering adjustments. If invalid, perform steering
angle sensor initialization procedure, or if VGRS actuator or VGRS ECU have been replaced, perform VGRS
system calibration (steering angle adjust).

Any of these REC (register) in VGRS need clearing (UNREC) first.
MTR OVERHEAT *2
MTR LOW POWER *2
MTR HIGH POWER *2
FLO MALFUNCTION *2
FRO MALFUNCTION *2
*2 When Rec is listed, reset to Unrec by going to the VGRS menu on the hand−held tester, select records
clearance, and follow the prompts

Also:
Also in addition to center steering wheel. There is an additional VGRS calibration procedure "Actuator angle sensor learning confirmation procedure:" It involves starting and stopping engine 15 times as steering wheel turned in a specific sequence. You'll fine it in the DI (DIAGNOSTICS − VARIABLE GEAR RATIO STEERING) & SR section of FSM under calibration. Which gives procedures, for both with TS and w/SST (wire)
VGRS SYSTEM CALIBRATION PROCEDURE:
NOTICE:
Use this procedure to center the steering wheel
position if:
• VGRS actuator has been replaced
• VGRS ECU has been replaced
• Steering column or gear has been disconnected
• Steering wheel is still off-center after completing the "STEERING ANGLE SENSOR INITIALIZATION" procedures.

Note: Wheel bearings, ball joints, R&P and TRE all need to be in proper working order.

 

[2001LC]

IMHO It's best all VGRS systems, be re-calibrated fully.

All 03-07 LX, need snap ring recall work completed. It's dangerous to drive otherwise. Unfortunately Lexus Dealerships techs, are only give 1.9 HR book time to complete. So they short cut the job. The calibration procedure & test driving, takes 30 to 60 minutes. So by only resting steering angle, they save a lot of time.

 

[bdruff]

Techstream and an alignment was the answer.

All good. Thanks again for all the help and advise. The only difficult part of the job, besides trying to figure out the alarm after installation, was the banjo bolt on the hp hose. I probably spent over an hour trying to get it to thread back in before it finally caught.

Truck drives straight and smooth now with no leaks.

 

[shtbrwn86]

Replaced the power steering reservoir and hoses recently and now the drivers side boot is leaking a decent amount. The rack that’s in there is the second rack in the truck. OEM done by the dealer about 150,000 miles ago. I was hoping it would last longer but alas…

I’ve read up on the procedure and it sounds like a PITA. But I also don’t really want to pay the labor to do it, so just wondering how hard this is. For reference I’m a moderate wrencher. I did all the front control arms myself as well as the CV axles. Wondering how the rack replacement compared to those repairs.

Thanks.