How To: Replace your own steering rack (1 Viewer)

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Kuhyuan,

Man I'm showing 756 bucks for the steering rack from Larry Miller toyota..??

Any insight on the 484 dollar rack?

Love to score that deal.. Thanks for any insight...

Larry Miller here in San Diego wanted around that same price for new
 
Larry Miller here in San Diego wanted around that same price for new

I missed the pre 2003 part.. Much cheaper before the 2003 trucks.. Unfortunately mine is a 2003, full stearing rack plus both outer control arms ordered this AM from McGeorge Toyota.. Cheapest I could find
 
Hi, my car is RHD UK model. Is it the same part as the LHD or different reference ?
 
Wow I can’t believe that price variance! It is the same part number so likely is legit.

The guys at Land Cruiser Specialists (Austin) told me about this unit and have other customers running the rack.

My local shop quoted only 3 hours to install so even if it failed the cost is low enough to have them do it again and still be $1230 ($900 + 3 more hours to swap) which is half of the $2400 a dealership charges.
 
Wow I can’t believe that price variance! It is the same part number so likely is legit.

The guys at Land Cruiser Specialists (Austin) told me about this unit and have other customers running the rack.

My local shop quoted only 3 hours to install so even if it failed the cost is low enough to have them do it again and still be $1230 ($900 + 3 more hours to swap) which is half of the $2400 a dealership charges.
Did they let you bring your own axle or did you buy it from them? When the time comes I may head north to get it done if they did a good job.
 
Steering rack and you can source your own.

They charge 4.5 hours - and Rising Sun 3 hours. For this one I picked rising sun yet prefer LCS.
 
Steering rack and you can source your own.

They charge 4.5 hours - and Rising Sun 3 hours. For this one I picked rising sun yet prefer LCS.
Yes I am sorry steering rack. I was thinking Detroit Axle and got it confused. Good to know as I plan on keeping this cruiser a long time.
 
This was a helpful thread. I replaced the steering rack and outer tie rods recently.

A couple things I noticed.... I wasn't going to resuse the outer tie rods anyway, and I defintely wasn't going to use them after hammering on with a backwards nut (you may need a proper puller / joint press to remove without damage). And finding the center of the rack, I layed a piece of tape on the floor and determined the inner and outer limit of the tie rod with a string and washer attached and marked center on the tape, before re-installing the steering shaft. I was only about 3 tie rod turns off from having a centered wheel. Also, a short and long 17mm wrench and a cheater bar helps in loosening the rear low pressure line.
 
WARNING: for those who DIY / take to a shop be 100% certain to check all your hoses / fitments before driving! After the rack was replaced the transmission oil cooler hose busted after 150+ miles of getting nicked by the fan. The truck had to be towed to a transmission shop. Ouch. TBD on what the prognosis is... such a terrible way to get stranded.
 
WARNING: for those who DIY / take to a shop be 100% certain to check all your hoses / fitments before driving! After the rack was replaced the transmission oil cooler hose busted after 150+ miles of getting nicked by the fan. The truck had to be towed to a transmission shop. Ouch. TBD on what the prognosis is... such a terrible way to get stranded.
I don’t feel this is necessary at all. But I do believe it’s always good to check your work. Start the truck up, let it warm up to operating temp, check to make sure the fan isn’t hitting anything, no leaks, etc.

It also helps to take pictures before you start the work so that you can make sure everything goes back into the correct place. A shop doesn’t have any magic hose routing diagrams or anything, they would just do what I mentioned above, no reason to spend money on that.
 
WARNING: for those who DIY / take to a shop be 100% certain to check all your hoses / fitments before driving! After the rack was replaced the transmission oil cooler hose busted after 150+ miles of getting nicked by the fan. The truck had to be towed to a transmission shop. Ouch. TBD on what the prognosis is... such a terrible way to get stranded.

Absolutely not.
 
I don’t feel this is necessary at all. But I do believe it’s always good to check your work. Start the truck up, let it warm up to operating temp, check to make sure the fan isn’t hitting anything, no leaks, etc.

It also helps to take pictures before you start the work so that you can make sure everything goes back into the correct place. A shop doesn’t have any magic hose routing diagrams or anything, they would just do what I mentioned above, no reason to spend money on that.

The shop that did the work left a hose loose. I drove it a few miles & saw no leaks before this extended trip (Austin - Houston). This was a PSA more than anything esp those who choose to have other's do the bigger items like steering racks.
 
The shop that did the work left a hose loose. I drove it a few miles & saw no leaks before this extended trip (Austin - Houston). This was a PSA more than anything esp those who choose to have other's do the bigger items like steering racks.
My bad, I interpreted it as those who do it yourself take it to a shop afterwards to have them check your work.
 
WARNING: for those who DIY / take to a shop be 100% certain to check all your hoses / fitments before driving! After the rack was replaced the transmission oil cooler hose busted after 150+ miles of getting nicked by the fan. The truck had to be towed to a transmission shop. Ouch. TBD on what the prognosis is... such a terrible way to get stranded.

Defintely re-check your own work before firing it up and driving it. Test drive, and check for leaks before buttoning it all up. Since I was working at the front of the engine, when I got it put back together, I checked all the hose & line clearances. I didn't like the way one of the reservoir lines was sitting close to a belt pulley, so I re-routed it.
 
Now is a great time to remove the bolt for the steering column u-joint at the input shaft - 12mm.

..........

Then I went underneath and pried on the column u-joint with my pickle fork, when I ran out of advantage with that I got a screw driver and just pounded that u-joint back until she was free. Being able to move the rack to the passenger side will give you some room to get the column u-joint off at the rack.
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@PabloCruise

How did you access the u-joint with the pickle fork? Mine is stuck on pretty good, but I can't seem to get good access to put the fork on AND have room to swing a hammer on the end of the fork.
 
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