How To: Replace your own steering rack (2 Viewers)

[PabloCruise]

Install the jam nuts on the new rack inner ends. There is a L side and R side. Both sides are right-hand threads, but you want the shoulder to hit the TRE.

I ran the jam nuts in all the way on the threaded portion of the inner end. When I took my old DS TRE off, I counted 19 turns. I screwed the new TREs on 19 turns and then looked at the thread I had between the TRE and the jam nuts - ~10 threads! Looks good.

 

[PabloCruise]

The FSM showed 2 different specs for torquing the TRE to the knuckle - 53 ft-lbs, and 90.

I thought 53 ft-lbs was more reasonable, as once you hit spec, you will tighten further to get your cotter pin in.

Tighten TREs, install cotter pins, and then look at rotors and see if you think the front wheels are somewhat pointed straight forward.

Since I took the effort to keep things centered, and counted threads on the old rack and TREs, my new install was pretty close. It did not pull on the way to the alignment shop, and the print out from the Hunter rack said my initial toe was w/in spec!

 

[PabloCruise]

1. Remove 2x2 from engine mount, lower engine, tighten mount back together.
2. Replace oil filter.
3. Top off oil and PS fluid. I switched to synthetic ATF. I took off the PS reservoir and cleaned it out while this project was underway. 1 qt of synthetic was enough.
4. Install tires/wheels, torque lug nuts to 97 ft-lbs.
5. Install skid plate and belly pan.
6. Take her in for alignment! I had gotten my toe-in w/in spec - nice!

I hope these details can help the next person doing this PITA job.

 

[PabloCruise]

Now up to $55, but still available while most are only selling it w/ the high pressure line:

Sunsong North America 3402991 Power Steering Return Hose | eBay

Low-pressure return line is back in stock at Rock Auto - $16!

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...6094,steering,power+steering+return+hose,7324

 

[PabloCruise]

Toyota did not charge a core charge to get the old rack back - does anyone want a core to rebuild?

Otherwise I will just give it to someone who recycles metal...

 

[PabloCruise]

Toyota did not charge a core charge to get the old rack back - does anyone want a core to rebuild?

Otherwise I will just give it to someone who recycles metal...

Sounds like CVJ Axles will rebuild it, so I will ship the old rack to them: CVJ Axles - CV Axles & Steering Racks for all your needs

 

[PabloCruise]

1. Now tighten the rack down before the high pressure line.
2. The manual states the bolts must be replaced. I put blue loctite on them and tightened them up to torque spec. The manual says torque to 74 ft-lbs.
3. I used a poly bushing at the U-clamp. The old bushings were fine in my rack, so I just left the OEM bushings in the new rack.
4. Then install the high pressure line. I flipped the little washer assembly over to get a better crush - sorry no picture.
5. Secure the high and low pressure lines with the locating bracket pictured earlier.

View attachment 1564058 View attachment 1564059 View attachment 1564060

If you use poly bushings - don't forget the lube! I did not notice the packet of lube until I was cleaning up. The front end squeaks and creaks!

 

[2001LC]

The FSM showed 2 different specs for torquing the TRE to the knuckle - 53 ft-lbs, and 90.

I thought 53 ft-lbs was more reasonable, as once you hit spec, you will tighten further to get your cotter pin in.

Tighten TREs, install cotter pins, and then look at rotors and see if you think the front wheels are somewhat pointed straight forward.

Since I took the effort to keep things centered, and counted threads on the old rack and TREs, my new install was pretty close. It did not pull on the way to the alignment shop, and the print out from the Hunter rack said my initial toe was w/in spec!

View attachment 1564066 View attachment 1564067 View attachment 1564068

90ft-lbf is correct for TRE ball joint. Then tighten for cotter pin.

If you use poly bushings - don't forget the lube! I did not notice the packet of lube until I was cleaning up. The front end squeaks and creaks!

I called @AimCOtaco and Christo about greasing poly bushing, as this seemed counter intuitive to me. They both said lather them up with the supplied grease.

BTW: If CVJ is doing your front drive shafts, it is well worth the extra to have them install OEM boots. They will out-last the aftermarkets boost CVJ uses by decades.

 

[Xetabur]

Anyone know how much the dealer charges to replace the rack (labor only)?

 

[allan man]

I got a quote for $700 plus $100 for alignment...That said it made me take a peek under the truck so I removed the front skid plate and that was enough for me to say Hmmmmmm....lol.

I have a neighbor that owns a body shop that led me to a friend of his which is a mechanic at Toyota dealership and was kind enough to do the whole thing with alignment for $460 OTD.

The downfall is...after specifically telling him about centering the rack ( equal threads showing on both sides within 1/8" ) is more like 1/2"
so I get a full 2 rotation of steering to the left and 1 3/4 to the right ( lock to lock )

Maybe pablocruise can chime in and give us info on how many rotations he has on his steering lock to lock since his is within 1/8" within spec.

 

[PabloCruise]

I called @AimCOtaco and Christo about greasing poly bushing, as this seemed counter intuitive to me. They both said lather them up with the supplied grease...

Oh yeah, mine squeaks like crazy. I need to go back in with the lube...

 

[PabloCruise]

The downfall is...after specifically telling him about centering the rack ( equal threads showing on both sides within 1/8" ) is more like 1/2"
so I get a full 2 rotation of steering to the left and 1 3/4 to the right ( lock to lock )

Maybe pablocruise can chime in and give us info on how many rotations he has on his steering lock to lock since his is within 1/8" within spec.

That would bug the heck out of me! I can check the rotations and get back to you. My usually drives the LX...

 

[jblatl]

Replaced my rack today with a brand new rack from Toyota South Atlanta thanks to Sam Stuart thank you Sam everything went very well the instructions were great lifting the engine was the way to go.

 

[bluesquirrel]

Anyone know how much the dealer charges to replace the rack (labor only)?

Picture Dr Evil from the Austin Powers movies, saying... 1 miiiiiillllion dollars

 

[jblatl]

I got a few prices from $1,000-1,200. Labor only and the dealer wanted $725.00 for a new not rebuilt rack.

Got my new rack from Sam Stewart, Toyota South. $509.00!

 

[PabloCruise]

Maybe pablocruise can chime in and give us info on how many rotations he has on his steering lock to lock since his is within 1/8" within spec.

Forgot I owed you a reply on this! I have just under 2 rotations each way to get full L and full R.

 

[allan man]

Forgot I owed you a reply on this! I have just under 2 rotations each way to get full L and full R.

Thats nice to know...I have a complete
Full 2 rotations to the left and just short
Of 2 rotations to the right more like 10min.
If it were a clock. Thanks for getting back
Pablo

I wonder if there a bolt/nut adjustment for the lock to lock travel to make it equal.
I certainly wouldnt want ruin any seals and create a new leak since I am over a bit to the
Left.

 

[jblatl]

Got mine within a 1/16" centered on the installation. I have just under 2 full turns from center to lock rom both sides to center.

You can measure to the inside of the boot, but there is a small shoulder the boot rides up against. I used that as a reference point to the end of the threads.

 

[kuhyuan]

I got a few prices from $1,000-1,200. Labor only and the dealer wanted $725.00 for a new not rebuilt rack.

Got my new rack from Sam Stewart, Toyota South. $509.00!

was that shipped?

tried google but wasn't sure. Could you provide me a contact info?

thanks

 

[Ouray19]

Funny timing. I need to get this done, and was wondering if I could do this myself. Short answer, no... Think I'll leave this one to the pros!