How To: Replace your own steering rack (1 Viewer)

[dnp]

Great write-up! Hoping this will save me a LOT of time!

I've read as many rack replacement threads as I could find, and one question has come to mind: I've seen plenty of postings about the part number for the rack. The truck in which I will be replacing the rack is an '03 LX470 with variable gear ratio power steering. Is the VGRS "function" in the rack itself (requiring a special part number rack) or is that function in the steering column itself / other component?

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

03+ uses a different rack with a different mounting set up than the 98-02. Ask Beno for the part number.

 

[dnp]

03+ uses a different rack with a different mounting set up than the 98-02. Ask Beno for the part number.

Thanks!

Beno?

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Thanks!

Beno?

Yep, Beno here on the forum. He is a parts whisperer at Nalley Toyota outside Atlanta (and gives a good mud discount.) The other favorite East Coast option is Sam Stewart.

Here is a thread that explains how to reach Beno:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/getting-to-beno-for-oem-toyota-parts.793816/

 

[Overland Tailor]

Here is the updated information on "Beno" -Onur- - No Longer at NST, so please see below..

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/getting-to-beno-for-oem-toyota-parts-support.854421/

"Instead of being associated with a dealership, I have decided to go out on my own and "make bread out of rocks" (old Turkish proverb--for those of you that know me)."

Contact methods:

1. This thread.
2. Email: onurazeri1@gmail.com
3. Phone call: 505.944.5081

 

[DWNUNDR]

I just changed out my rack on my 98.. and used poly bushings..

I have a 10K lift and air tools... the rack itself took about 2hrs.. the other 3 of the 5 it took was messing around with the dam steering coupler getting it out then setting the steering straight after hahahah

I highly recommend lifting the engine on the divers side as high as you can... not sure why people mentioned coolant leaking etc but I undid 2 hoses at the rack, 4 rack bolts, outer tie rods and the coupler and it came out

 

[llfarms]

DWNDR, nice pic.. I have one of my son helping me with my Yukon.. Great job starting new ih8mudders!

Do you have a part number for the rack?

 

[SmoothLC]

. . . and is that a new rack or reman (looks new)?

 

[Mike6158]

When I started reading this thread I was thinking

Now I'm thinking maybe I'll give it a try but with a twist. I have a new steering rack, axles, tie rod ends, and parts to repack the front bearings in hand. I want to also do the 2.5" OME lift, diff drop, and upper control arms. It seems like it would be a good idea (good being a relative term here) to do it all at once but is it?

I could use a road trip. I wonder how long it would take Slee to do all that?

 

[DWNUNDR]

. . . and is that a new rack or reman (looks new)?

buyautoparts.com part number 80-00802 AN

this is all they have listed now... mine WASNT reman my part had an AN not an R at teh end.. but I think they only had a couple left when I bought mine 2 weeks ago?? http://www.buyautoparts.com/buynow/...Power_Steering_Rack/80-00802_R.html?xref=2447

****ACTUALLY IF YOU LOOK TO THE RIGHT YOU CAN CLICK BUY AUTOPARTS NEW ****
$272 3YR unlimited mileage warranty

reman has 3yr warranty for the price and amount of effort to replace I figure even a reman is fine.. but I dont get out wheeling in mine.. havent had chance much in 4 yrs living in MN.. there is only 1 decent offroad park and it is 5hrs north adn I am only up there during christmas when it is snowed in...

I also threw in some whiteline bushings... http://www.ebay.com/itm/151423678635

with an alignment I will be under $500 for this fix...

 

[SmoothLC]

Thanks for the heads up.

I know this fix is on my list so am weighing options now.

BTW - I know what you mean about MN. I'm working with an agency near the Twin Cities and sounds like lots of recreation opportunities up north. Beautiful state, just don't know I could survive the bugs again (mid-Western transplant).

 

[duggy]

Getting ready to rip out my steering rack tonight. This should be fun.

 

[AimCOtaco]

Just finished mine over the weekend and had an alignment this week. DO IT! The truck feels great, I think I needed one longer than I realized. Great price on the rack came from cruiser dan at american toy in NM.

My take on this is that it's pretty easy other than the steering shaft disconnect and re-install. I say this because mine was originally a Michigan truck so the first removal of anything generally sucks bad. I tried to remove this a few years back when I did DT headers but ended up leaving it alone and working around it due to how stiff it was. Obviously there was no working around it and I fought and fought with it but the lower joint was NOT happening after hours of effort (I was not going to flame a rubber sealed universal joint if I could avoid it). I found the post above by @rohitash who had the same problem and I decided to try removing the rack and shaft together. The upper joint separated in only an hour of cursing and then as rohitash described, I removed the rack and universal shaft together. I actually got it to come out from the front after shifting it full passenger. It took about an hour or two on the bench to ultimately separate the rusty steering shaft from the old rack... but it cleaned up nice enough and went back in.

Thanks all who contributed to this thread, I don't usually follow write ups but several points here made this job a lot more straight forward. @ENGINE er Thanks for the initial write up and giving me a name to take in vain as knuckles were busted. @5Cruiser Thanks for the engine lift idea, that is the real key. @rohitash Thanks for letting me know the sucker would come out with the steering shaft attached, saved my day.

-If you struggle with the lower steering shaft connection definitely move to the upper as rohitash and I did, it makes it a lot easier to deal with. It will come out the front with the shaft still attached and the engine lifted about 1". Pay no attention to the front drive shaft, unrelated work.

-A flex head breaker bar makes the passenger side mounts on the early trucks a piece of cake.

-Wind sucks, work inside if you can... or put a rock in your pan!

Rack'em up!

 

[jcrandall]

Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! 'Mud delivers again.

Just replaced my rack, what a difference. "Like a new truck" to quote a PM from @DWNUNDR.

It was a b!tch with these instructions, without it would have been impossible.

If you're on the fence, do it. I can't believe how much better the steering is: precision increased, ease of turning greatly improved, clunk/rattles gone.

@ENGINE er = you're the man, thanks for the write up.
@5Cruiser = thanks for the engine lift technique. Only possible for me because of this.

 

[abuck99]

buyautoparts.com part number 80-00802 AN

this is all they have listed now... mine WASNT reman my part had an AN not an R at teh end.. but I think they only had a couple left when I bought mine 2 weeks ago?? 1998 Toyota Landcruiser Power Steering Rack All Models 80-00802 R

****ACTUALLY IF YOU LOOK TO THE RIGHT YOU CAN CLICK BUY AUTOPARTS NEW ****
$272 3YR unlimited mileage warranty

reman has 3yr warranty for the price and amount of effort to replace I figure even a reman is fine.. but I dont get out wheeling in mine.. havent had chance much in 4 yrs living in MN.. there is only 1 decent offroad park and it is 5hrs north adn I am only up there during christmas when it is snowed in...

I also threw in some whiteline bushings... Whiteline Steering Rack & Pinion Mount Bushing - 98-02 Lexus LX470 - W13210

with an alignment I will be under $500 for this fix...

Great Thread.

I've got a question about the quality & reliability of the aftermarket option: Has anyone experienced any problems, or early failure on the cheaper steering rack? The price difference is is less than 1/2 the price of the Toyota part. I'm having a hard time justifying double the price ( nearly triple compared to msrp) Is there measurable/quantifiable difference in quality to justify the up charge? The brand new aftermarket option (for 03-07 models) is about $345, compared to discounted OEM Toyota part $696.50 ($981.78 msrp).

 

[duggy]

I bought an aftermarket one and had an issue where the internals would "skip a thread" if I turned left with any pressure, especially with the car off and power steering inactive.

This would effectively run out of turns and I could no longer turn left which posed a very dangerous situation for me as I turned into my driveway.

I typically use parts that are readily available to me, aftermarket or OEM, but the steering rack is one of the things that I highly suggest you go OEM on.

Look into Camelback Toyota Parts. I bought my rack from them for around $600

 

[abuck99]

I bought an aftermarket one and had an issue where the internals would "skip a thread" if I turned left with any pressure, especially with the car off and power steering inactive.

This would effectively run out of turns and I could no longer turn left which posed a very dangerous situation for me as I turned into my driveway.

I typically use parts that are readily available to me, aftermarket or OEM, but the steering rack is one of the things that I highly suggest you go OEM on.

Look into Camelback Toyota Parts. I bought my rack from them for around $600

Solid advice- thanks Duggy.

 

[Avi]

This post has given me the confidence to go at this job. Thanks everyone! ... An additional question related to this is how did you guys handle the electronics?

The original objective for me was to correct an alignment issue activating my skid control sequence while the car was perfectly under control. This has led me to receive a recommendation from my dealership that I need an alignment to correct wheel position sensor zeroing issue- but now dealer is telling that my steering rack is incapable of being aligned and in need of replacement ... The typical dealer song and dance!

I have seen the zero point calibration thread, but also seen statements warning of the danger of over-rotating the steering shaft and breaking the airbag spiral link. I believe someone made a comment here about being able to calibrate The yaw/deceleration sensor as well but no details how is all the stuff done. How much of this was necessary after changing the steering rack ?
Are there other good related posts on this? ?

 

[sage1]

Dealership went over my 280k 100 during an oil change this week and found a small amount of play in the rack. I had told them I occasionally heard a pop when turning and on bumps so they were looking for "problems". There's no leak but they've recommended replacing the rack&pinion assembly stating it's a zero tolerance for movement part. I looked at it when it was on the the lift and the mech showed me how the wheels had a small amount of side to side movement . With the high mileage it seems reasonable the R&P is worn. Debating replacing it now or waiting awhile. Also, are there other bushing which should be changed out at the same time. Looks like outer tie rod ends aren't included in the new assembly, reuse the old ones or replace? Thanks for all the info. S1

 

[Hugh Heifer]

I replaced my tie rod ends at the same time since they were not expensive and the whole thing was ripped apart anyway. Kept the old ones as trail spares. I have broken tie rod ends on VWs before (though these are considerable larger). There are some bushings you can replace in the new rack before it goes on with poly bushings to increase longevity.