How To: Replace your own steering rack (3 Viewers)

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Nov 13, 2006
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Sunnyvale, CA
What are you referring to as the mid-coupling? The yoke at the bottom end of the Intermediate Shaft no 2, or the top end of that shaft? I tried a heat gun on that clamp, but will try a torch today. Thanks!

This is what I'm stuck with:

LX$70SteeringRack.JPG

LX$70SteeringRack.JPG
 
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I forgot there was a u-joint at the bottom, was thinking it was solid and that you could start working from the top.

Try a plumber's torch, much more heat than a heat gun. You want to quickly heat the outer part to get it to expand around the cool inner part.
 
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Actually the suggestion of the mid coupling made me look up to the top end of the intermediate drive shaft and there was a similar clamp there which was much easier to access. Was able to get that off and then pull out the steering rack with the shaft attached.

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Joined
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Today I removed the front diff, and the steering rack.

I have some things to add to this write up

I am not a skilled mechanic by any means, but I learn as I go and do as much work as I can. It will be easier to fix on a trail if I've done it in the shop. Yes this was a little difficult of a job, but only in time and access frustrations. I had it a little easier with the diff out, and a smart friend helping. I am glad I have done this work myself...of course I still have to put it together.

Thanks Engine er for the writeup and the courage. :cheers:

I'm considering having the shop do this or try to tackle it next weekend. Is the consensus that this engine lift technique (like doing DT headers) makes everything much easier even with the diff in place?

Also, is the rack mounting bolt you need 2ft of extension for the Passenger side rear bolt? I've gotten to that with a Universal joint and a normal ratchet to replace the bushing.
 
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I did the Engine lift method a couple of weeks back to change the steering rack and it was easy enough. I struggled with separating the steering column from the rack - but that was more a rust issue. With the engine lifted and a little bit of man handling the steering rack comes out easy enough. Also I have the 2003 LX470 and the design of the steering rack mounts on the passenger side is different from earlier 100s. In essence it is identical to the driver side mount - so that was easy enough for me. If I had to do it again I could probably do it in 3 hours or so.
 
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15692-50020

Ha, I was about to copy it from your email here.


I did the Engine lift method a couple of weeks back to change the steering rack and it was easy enough. I struggled with separating the steering column from the rack - but that was more a rust issue. With the engine lifted and a little bit of man handling the steering rack comes out easy enough. Also I have the 2003 LX470 and the design of the steering rack mounts on the passenger side is different from earlier 100s. In essence it is identical to the driver side mount - so that was easy enough for me. If I had to do it again I could probably do it in 3 hours or so.

Good to here. I'm going to try it next weekend thanks to a rack and gasket from Beno. Hoping not to need the gasket. I'll start PB Blasting the steering column bolt now and see how fast we can do it. Thanks for the help.
 
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Replaced the steering rack in a driveway this weekend. Took about 6 hours because we were also dropping the gas tank on a Land Rover and replacing all the lines. Could do it by myself in 3hrs now probably. I don't think you really need a second person to do the rack install.

My rack has 175k miles on it. Steering pulled to the right with torque steer and clunked over bumps. Also made fun groaning noises near full lock.

I used the engine raise technique and just removed the oil filter for clearance.

I don't know why everyone's having so much trouble getting to the PS rear rack bolt. I used a 3/8in ratchet with a flexible head, 19mm socket and a cheater bar to break it loose then used a normal 1/2" ratchet with a deep 19mm socket to get it the rest of the way off. No weird extensions required.

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I wanted to replace all the bushings with poly but didn't realize you needed a press for the two DS ones. So I just did the big PS one.

Thanks to those on this thread for the ideas. Thanks Beno for the part. Saved $1200 over my local dealer doing it.


Old and New

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Tired bushings hopefully causing my clunking and torque steer.

10930986836_1986693a0e_c.jpg
 
Joined
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Sacramento area, CA
Completed changing my rack out. Used a bottle jack under a short 2x4 block against oilpan to lift engine with driver side engine mount unbolted. Makes it a whole lot easier.
Things to note.
1) In step 10 of original post the steering wheel is turned to far right, I did not do that, left it in center straight ahead position. Think centering rack is better way to go.
2) Check that new rack is in same position as old one was when removed. In my case made sure rack was centered in travel.
3) Clean the power steering oil tank. The tank has a fine mesh filter in bottom, mine spit out a bunch of powdered metal and some big chucks of an O-ring. Dish soap and garden hose to back flush. A plugged tank would shorten life of the new rack.
4) Manual says rack mounting nuts and bolts should be replaced, as they are coated, expect you could get away with blue Locktite on them. Also gaskets for front PS fluid line should be replaced, all of these parts do not come with rack.
 
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r2m

Richard
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San Clemente, CA
Question: What was it that made you have to R&R your steering rack?
Did it break, was your rig wondering all over the road, was it feeling sloppy, just won the lottery and needed to spend some money, all the above, or?
 

Hugh Heifer

Chasing the Beast
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in my case the main seal around the steering shaft is completely blown out and I'm going through about a pint of fluid a month.

Heifer-net
 
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Sacramento area, CA
Question: What was it that made you have to R&R your steering rack?
Did it break, was your rig wondering all over the road, was it feeling sloppy, just won the lottery and needed to spend some money, all the above, or?

Oh, just a good excuse to buy some more tools and spend hours rolling around on a creeper. :D
Too much play on driver side linkage of rack, could not align wheels.
I have a 2000 LC and think these numbers are good thru 2002

44250-60050 - new rack
90178-14003 - need 2 lock nuts
90105-14121 - need 2 lock bolts
44327-30030 – 1 gasket for banjo fitting PS fluid line.

Super Pro urethane rack mounting bushings - SPF2470K
 
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spressomon

glutton
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Cliff, its been too many years and unfortunately I didn't take adequate notes when we installed the new rack on mine...but I do recall having a mismatch issue between the power steering line fitting end ('99 OEM) and the new rack's ports. Did you experience this?
 
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Klaus, the issue with the wierd extensions was because we weren't using the engine lift technique. The ones who lifted the engine did not have to experience this.
 
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Cliff, its been too many years and unfortunately I didn't take adequate notes when we installed the new rack on mine...but I do recall having a mismatch issue between the power steering line fitting end ('99 OEM) and the new rack's ports. Did you experience this?

Dan, For my 2000 and new rack part # 44250-60050 all lines fit. They have changed design of front PS line gasket. I had two copper washers, one on each side of the banjo fitting. New was a one piece silver color metal (aluminum?) of two washers joined to make it so it clips over banjo fitting.

For those who had the copper washers and did not replace, those are usually good for a few uses. If you did not replace the nuts and bolts AND did not use locktite, for insurance you may want to do one or the other.
 

hankinid

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For those who had the copper washers and did not replace, those are usually good for a few uses. If you did not replace the nuts and bolts AND did not use locktite, for insurance you may want to do one or the other.
You can usually re-use copper washers, once you anneal them.

Hold the washer with an old needle nose pliers. Heat w/ propane torch until red-hot. Immediately drop the washer into a can filled with water.

Steve
 
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Klaus, the issue with the wierd extensions was because we weren't using the engine lift technique. The ones who lifted the engine did not have to experience this.
You can get to the PS bolts the way I did it, using a 2" deep socket that will reach over the rack, even without lifting the engine. You just need to remove the skid plate.
 

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