How to Replace Oil Pump seal w/ Pics (4 Viewers)

[alia176]

I think a drill is the wrong tool for the job at this juncture. If it were me....I'd take a Dremel and metal cutting burr and CAREFULLY make sure the remaining end of the bolt was flat. Then take a SHARP center punch and make good divot in the 'center' of the bolt. Then use the smallest drill bit that will hold up (1/8") and make your pilot hole with that. Gradually enlarge it with slightly bigger bits until you can insert a 'GOOD' extractor or try a left hand drill bit. But DON'T get into the threads.

This is EXACTLY what was done yesterday and it worked!!! The threads inside the holes are intact but I chased them down anyway. The buggered up outside hole will get a longer M6 x 1.0 x 16 or 18 (13 is oem length) but all others will get the normal allen head SS screws. Just to be safe, I'll apply a touch of FIPG around that buggered up hole, just below the seal. A new cover will be going in as well.

Curious, should I apply a touch of copper anti-seize on the SS screws?

 

[flintknapper]

1. This is EXACTLY what was done yesterday and it worked!!!

2. Curious, should I apply a touch of copper anti-seize on the SS screws?

1. Great Job....!

2. Oh hell yes!

 

[alia176]

Thoughts on copper anti seize?

 

[flintknapper]

Thoughts on copper anti seize?

In theory you shouldn't use it....since they are dissimilar metals and could cause galvanic corrosion. I put it on just about everything that doesn't get locktite and haven't had any problems.

 

[alia176]

ok, thx. Seems like not using it isn't doing me any favors either

 

[flintknapper]

ok, thx. Seems like not using it isn't doing me any favors either

Can't argue that.

 

[alia176]

Found longer screws at the local Ace. 12, 12, 16, 20mm.

 

[alia176]

Ain't she purdy?

 

[flintknapper]

Ain't she purdy?


View attachment 2666660

Darn right! Battle won.....well done Sir.

 

[kazanski]

So.. thought I had everything I needed to get this done this weekend. I am replacing my radiator, hoses, thermostat, water pump, fan, fan clutch and wanted to knock this out while I had everything out. As usual, I was able to get everything out until I got to the 30mm crank pulley bolt. I have tried both DIY methods with no luck. With the 14mm socket over the flywheel bolt, I tried 3-4 times with it sliding off all three times due to the torque I was putting on it, and figured I should stop before I strip the bolt head and damage the flywheel (which is possible I have done already). Moved on to the bump start, I tried 5-10 times with a 3/4 breaker bar strapped to the PS frame, no luck. Either I am doing something wrong or I have a very stubborn/rusted pulley bolt. I am guessing I need something like Otramm‘s pulley tool (or a homemade solution) at this point before I break something… anything else I need to consider?

 

[lp2k]

I think you nailed it with the use of the OTRAM tool. To be clear I have not done this and dreading it as I’ve snapped every other bolt on my rig and I don’t have time to keep extracting.

I saw in his video he does use an exceptionally large breaker bar so if you get his tool, get the extra larger breaker and a cheater on it. Wouldn’t hurt to use a quality 30mm 6 point socket (snap on)

 

[flintknapper]

I think you nailed it with the use of the OTRAM tool. To be clear I have not done this and dreading it as I’ve snapped every other bolt on my rig and I don’t have time to keep extracting.

I saw in his video he does use an exceptionally large breaker bar so if you get his tool, get the extra larger breaker and a cheater on it. Wouldn’t hurt to use a quality 30mm 6 point socket (snap on)

 

[kazanski]

View attachment 2856705View attachment 2856707

Unfortunately he isn't selling them now - anyone have one they want to sell/loan out?

 

[lp2k]

Hey I cant loan but I can give tech specs if you. Just DM me. The fsm says 09213−58012 but I think it’s wrong and 09213-54015 is the correct one but I’ll let the forum decide.

 

[alia176]

So.. thought I had everything I needed to get this done this weekend. I am replacing my radiator, hoses, thermostat, water pump, fan, fan clutch and wanted to knock this out while I had everything out. As usual, I was able to get everything out until I got to the 30mm crank pulley bolt. I have tried both DIY methods with no luck. With the 14mm socket over the flywheel bolt, I tried 3-4 times with it sliding off all three times due to the torque I was putting on it, and figured I should stop before I strip the bolt head and damage the flywheel (which is possible I have done already). Moved on to the bump start, I tried 5-10 times with a 3/4 breaker bar strapped to the PS frame, no luck. Either I am doing something wrong or I have a very stubborn/rusted pulley bolt. I am guessing I need something like Otramm‘s pulley tool (or a homemade solution) at this point before I break something… anything else I need to consider?

I ran into the same issue and had to use a "torque multiplier" to break that stupid POS bolt loose while someone held a deep 14mm socket on the flexplate bolt. Given the amount of medieval abuse i put on that bolt using various methods, it still looked good. Thread was clean on the bolt as well on the inside of the Cshaft, no dried oil gunk or any burring. Still, I bought a new crankshaft bolt as it wasn't much $$. For some reason, the bump method just didn't work this time.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

So.. thought I had everything I needed to get this done this weekend. I am replacing my radiator, hoses, thermostat, water pump, fan, fan clutch and wanted to knock this out while I had everything out. As usual, I was able to get everything out until I got to the 30mm crank pulley bolt. I have tried both DIY methods with no luck. With the 14mm socket over the flywheel bolt, I tried 3-4 times with it sliding off all three times due to the torque I was putting on it, and figured I should stop before I strip the bolt head and damage the flywheel (which is possible I have done already). Moved on to the bump start, I tried 5-10 times with a 3/4 breaker bar strapped to the PS frame, no luck. Either I am doing something wrong or I have a very stubborn/rusted pulley bolt. I am guessing I need something like Otramm‘s pulley tool (or a homemade solution) at this point before I break something… anything else I need to consider?

On occasion I have had excellent luck with a simple propane plumbing torch heating the head of the bolt prior to "breaking" it loose.

We're not talking make it glow, just warm less than hot....

The otramm tool looks amazing and I really want one. However, I'm guilty of bump starting a 1998 3rz Tacoma (full engine), 2007 2uz Sequoia (timing belt and cooling), 1997 FZJ80 (all the things your doing)

A little SOk soak works wonders overnight also.

No joke, the propane is a refinery trick I picked up from old timers years ago.

Oh and order a factory crank bolt ($1.26) for good measure and to prevent either of us getting yelled at here on mud for altering the metallurgy of the bolt with heat.

Seriously though the crank pulley bolt takes a lot of pressure just replace it.

@NLXTACY sells a kit. Those Philips bits are seriously life savers! Perfect fit and I still broke 2 screws. The Allen hex replacement screws are Money!

I got my spare crank bolt also from Wits End but I did not see it on his website so I did not provide you with a link.

Buy ones cry once to do it right the first time don't play around, besides this is yourp 80 series we're talking about

80 Series 1FZ Oil Pump Leak Kit

80 Series 1FZ Oil Pump Leak Kit (OLK-1)

absolute-wits-end.com

 

[Bambusiero]

Next time use left handed drill bits. When they hook, they unscrew the screw.

x2 on this. AND "screw machine length" which are much shorter than the normal "jobber length". Really helps get in those tight places.
You have to order these things - not common. They do exist - although not in every size - just the more common ones.
Every time I've used them, the stuck screw has just screwed itself right back out of the hole on about the 2nd size.
Gradually accumulating a set of stepped sizes.

 

[alia176]

No joke, the propane is a refinery trick I picked up from old timers years ago.

When I did this project few months back, I tried the propane trick. Since that bolt is so long and massive, I didn't think the heat transferred to the length of the bolt very much. On top of that, the crankshaft is a massive heat sink so I figured I wasn't doing much good by heating it. Thankfully, there isn't any thread locking compound on the bolt from the factory

 

[kazanski]

Thanks for the replies, I soaked it yesterday, last night, and this morning... I will have too fab something up to hold the pulley, but hopefully meeting it soak a few days will help loosen it up.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Thanks for the replies, I soaked it yesterday, last night, and this morning... I will have too fab something up to hold the pulley, but hopefully meeting it soak a few days will help loosen it up.

Sounds like you got it, a little heat is your friend.