How to LS Swap a FJ60 or FJ62. Quick and dirty guide for regular folks wanting to do an engine swap in their driveway.

[BurntToast]

I did a custom crossmember. 2x3 rectanglular bar and the GM mount. My build has pics to show. Higher clearance than OEM

Post in thread 'BurntToast's FJ62 Build "Hoss"'
Builds - BurntToast's FJ62 Build "Hoss" - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/burnttoasts-fj62-build-hoss.1291363/post-15344859

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Park City! Miss that place.

 

[Dubs2017]

Park City! Miss that place.

It's great, as long as one is a fan of snow...

 

[tmxmotorsports]

It's great, as long as one is a fan of snow...

Of course

 

[tmxmotorsports]

thanks for all the help guys! another question, which transmission mount do i use? the gm one or stock toyota transmission mount that we still have attached to the old crossmember. we have a 4l60e with adapter to 19 spline toyota transfer case and we are using the crossmember from advanced adapter.

What does this xmember look like

 

[BurntToast]

@dbbowen so I have a high pitched whine under load… it’s not unbearable but it may be an inevitable split case situation. Perhaps the 80 unit is the move?

 

[tmxmotorsports]

@dbbowen so I have a high pitched whine under load… it’s not unbearable but it may be an inevitable split case situation. Perhaps the 80 unit is the move?

I've heard whine in a couple stock 60's. I really think that's just the way they are. I have a 89 62 lifted still stock no real whine. Turn the radio up and just drive it

 

[BurntToast]

Yup my current mitigation is volume on the new stereo. Works great

 

[dbbowen]

Yup my current mitigation is volume on the new stereo. Works great

Dude. Me and @Dubs2017 have been barking up this tree for so long it’s the freaking transfer case adapter. The best thing you can do is make sure you have both boots on your t case lever and cover every floor hole you have. I’m about to do sound deadening on mine too.

I’ve tried it all. It’s the freaking adapter. The only fix is switching to the 80 series tcase but since you already cut your output shaft you’ll need a fresh 4l60 output shaft because of course it needs to be longer to use the 80 tcase adapter

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Just about to do this with a 80 case on my build. AA adapters does not have clear directions on output shaft cut length. Maybe they have recently. Can report back on whine (in a year) when I am at the high speed test. 4l65/80 case.

 

[Dubs2017]

I am also utilizing the radio-volume-up method of dealing with the whine. Mine seems to increase in volume once things are warmed up. It annoys me more than I care to admit and am planning (dreaming) to swap to the hf2a (or HF1A if I can afford it) when the transmission comes out for a rebuild.

 

[Dubs2017]

I am also utilizing the radio-volume-up method of dealing with the whine. Mine seems to increase in volume once things are warmed up. It annoys me more than I care to admit and am planning (dreaming) to swap to the hf2a (or HF1A if I can afford it) when the transmission comes out for a rebuild.

 

[dbbowen]

Just about to do this with a 80 case on my build. AA adapters does not have clear directions on output shaft cut length. Maybe they have recently. Can report back on whine (in a year) when I am at the high speed test. 4l65/80 case.

Word on the street from the like 8 people ive talked to is that the 80 case doesnt whine at all behind the 4l6x transmissions. Learn from my mistakes and skip the split case haha

I am also utilizing the radio-volume-up method of dealing with the whine. Mine seems to increase in volume once things are warmed up. It annoys me more than I care to admit and am planning (dreaming) to swap to the hf2a (or HF1A if I can afford it) when the transmission comes out for a rebuild.

yeah its on the long list for me. Maybe my 4l60 will die some day and it will be the justification i need

 

[cruisermatt]

Been road testing a open-top 1976 FJ40 we did a 5.3/4l60e/split case in… dead silent drivetrain. Just like the other ones I’ve done

Maybe it’s something else.

 

[BurntToast]

Could be? I dunno. I’m going to try some different gear oil to see if it changes anything

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Been road testing a open-top 1976 FJ40 we did a 5.3/4l60e/split case in… dead silent drivetrain. Just like the other ones I’ve done

Maybe it’s something else.

Is the 40 quiet enough to hear anything ???

 

[cruisermatt]

Is the 40 quiet enough to hear anything ???

Yep, engine, all accessories, injectors, transmission, tires/axles is all 100% fresh/new so it has basically no noise other then wind and the exhaust.

 

[dbbowen]

Here is something I did wrong on my swap and Ive been meaning to fix it... and it kinda just popped up to remind me this weekend. You really need to wire in a relay in between your starter wire and your neutral safety switch on your trans wiring. The Painless standalone harness instructions are very vague on this and make it seem like you need to run the "TO STARTER SOL" wire to the small post on your starter, but you need to add a relay to make it work. If you just run this yellow wire straight to your starter or you run the purple wire to key on power and not start power... you can crank the truck while in gear because its bypassing the neutral safety switch.

Why do I know this? Well my daughter plays in my truck a lot and I guess i left it in gear after she was messing around in there and I went to crank it and got to test out the strength of my @TRAIL TAILOR bumper.

My brights were on, left turn signal was on, and my truck was in drive. The recovery point on the bumper drove straight into my welding table and it absorbed pretty much all of the impact. The wall behind the table is concrete for like 4 feet before its wood and drywall and stuff.

Ok... So how to fix this? (this is for Gen3 motors with 4l6x trans btw, for manual trans see diagram below)


The yellow wire for "TO STARTER SOL" would go on the 85 coil side of a relay, 86 would be grounded, 30 is constant fused (40amps) from the battery, and 87 goes to the small post on the starter solenoid. Make sure you get a relay that can handle the load. Purple/white should be tied into your ignition to only get power while cranking the vehicle. NOT a pink ignition wire thats energized when the key is in the on position. You have to use a relay for this or youll fry out your PNP switch. That switch isnt made to run up to 40 amps through it.


Or just dont let your daughter play in your car, but i refuse that option.




Edit,

adding the ewds from the GM diagrams for Back up light and the neutral safety and starter relay. Just copy this stuff on your swap

NSS (ive highlighted the Automatic trans side, but manual trans side is on the right):

Backup lights

 

[cruisermatt]

I would say this thread title is not really appropriately named, maybe should be something like, "how Daniel did his swap"
Most aftermarket engine swap harnesses don't have the NSS wiring since it's not related to the Gen 3 controls. It really sounds like your NSS was just wired wrong.
I actually make a 4l60e NSS/reverse light harness for 60 and 62. Some trucks do need a relay (my 62 did but I've done a half a dozen that haven't needed one, it really is a case by case basis based on the condition of vehicles original dash harness)

 

[dbbowen]

I would say this thread title is not really appropriately named, maybe should be something like, "how Daniel did his swap"
Most aftermarket engine swap harnesses don't have the NSS wiring since it's not related to the Gen 3 controls. It really sounds like your NSS was just wired wrong.
I actually make a 4l60e NSS/reverse light harness for 60 and 62. Some trucks do need a relay (my 62 did but I've done a half a dozen that haven't needed one, it really is a case by case basis based on the condition of vehicles original dash harness)

Gen 3 swaps running the 4l6x based trans need a relay for the starter side. The reverse light section wire on most all of the gen 3 standalone harnesses comes straight out of the PNP switch and splices into your reverse lights. There was is no separate harness needed. On the single plug PNP...Pin 10 grey is back up lamp supply voltage, pin 11 is ignition supply voltage, pin 1 is the PNP clutch start switch signal, and 12 is its ignition supply voltage.

the 2 plug is similar. Pin G C2 is the park neutral signal. PinE C2 is starter relay coil supply voltage. Pin F C2 is back up lamp supply voltage