How To: Keyless entry for a 62

[Spudman]

Might have to call me premature ejaculator

Now when I wired this alarm etc. I knew I put a second fuse between the power wire and the battery (there is already one between the alarm module and the battery, but I wanted to be extra safe) but I couldn't find the fuse anywhere and I thought I must have forgot it.

Anyway I stuck my hand right down towards the bottom of the battery and found this in line fuse, it's one of those glass ones, I checked it out and it was blown, by the look of it, it was a 2.5 amp or less fuse, real thin wire. So I hunted around in the dark and found a fuse, I think it's about 25 amp.

Stuck that in and everything is working again, the doors locked and unlocked, started the engine and ran it for a couple of minutes, turned it off and let the turbo timer run for a minute, all good, I did this a couple of times just to make sure.

So I'd say it was coincidence based on the extra power load of the central locking.

Thank fxxx for that

 

[Crick60]

Wow spud that sounded like a saga! Just to be on the safe side it may be worth changing that fuse out to a 10a or 15a because at 25a there is a small chance you could cook the cable and set fire to your rig before the fuse pops.

 

[Spudman]

Wow spud that sounded like a saga! Just to be on the safe side it may be worth changing that fuse out to a 10a or 15a because at 25a there is a small chance you could cook the cable and set fire to your rig before the fuse pops.

Thanks mate, I had already considered that, so I left the truck at home today and went to get some smaller fuses, it was all I could find last night and I just had to get it going

Spudman

 

[Spudman]

So today I replaced the 25 amp fuse with a 15 amp one, did three 3 minute idles and each one minute with the turbo timer and all good.

I then took it for an half hour drive,turned it on and off a few more times and all good. So looks like it was just the wrong size fuse

Spudman

 

[Turd Furgeson]

Reviving an old thread here, I'm looking to get keyless entry installed with a cheap system I bought on Amazon. I couldn't find the old Clarion system referenced here circa 2009. I've got the permanent relay fix installed and its working great per @slcfj62 instructions in the FAQ, no issues there.
I've got the keyless system hooked up to a 12V battery to test and I've got the Yellow and the Yellow-Black from the keyless harness on positive on the battery.
From the keyless harness i've got the White (closing Signal) on the Lock Brown wire relay, and the White-Black (opening signal) on the Unlock Brown wire relay. I'm getting nothing when i test it. Any ideas on what i'm doing wrong?
I've got instructions from the keyless system in pictures here, any guidance is much appreciated.

 

[g-man]

Here's my write up on installing what looks like the same or similar system in my FJ60. Hope it helps. I connected it directly to the actuator wires out of a 62. I had no other relays unlike a 62 which has relays in the truck already.
wiring up a keyless remote on a 60 | IH8MUD Forum

 

[jiro]

Reviving an old thread here, I'm looking to get keyless entry installed with a cheap system I bought on Amazon. I couldn't find the old Clarion system referenced here circa 2009. I've got the permanent relay fix installed and its working great per @slcfj62 instructions in the FAQ, no issues there.
I've got the keyless system hooked up to a 12V battery to test and I've got the Yellow and the Yellow-Black from the keyless harness on positive on the battery.
From the keyless harness i've got the White (closing Signal) on the Lock Brown wire relay, and the White-Black (opening signal) on the Unlock Brown wire relay. I'm getting nothing when i test it. Any ideas on what i'm doing wrong?
I've got instructions from the keyless system in pictures here, any guidance is much appreciated.

View attachment 2532474

View attachment 2532479

Have you pressed the learning button and gotten the remotes to make the system "click"?

 

[Turd Furgeson]

Have you pressed the learning button and gotten the remotes to make the system "click"?

Yeah I double-checked the learning mode and the fobs are making the click for lock/unlock. Also, i used a multi meter and double checked, it looks like I'm getting 12-ish volts to COMs wires respectively.
I keep getting nothing when I hook all this up. I've got the two "Normally Open" wires on the 12V power as well as main power red cable. Ground cable is on my negative terminal on the test battery.
The common "lock/unlock" are going to the two relays brown cables which are on "85" relay position which i believe is the coil. when i hit the buttons i hear the click, but get nothing on the locks.
I also double-checked the switch modifications per @ad20k and I don't think theres an issue there.
I'm thoroughly stumped on what to try next.

 

[g-man]

Looking at this diagram from the 84-90 fsm the wires on the FJ62 lock and unlock relays should be light blue/red (L-R) and Light blue/white (L-R). I'm not very familiar with the "permanent relay fix" by slcfj62. Do the brown wires that come off "85" post go to the light blue wires? The light blue wires carry signal to the lock actuators and switch polarity to carry current to ground. So for example when the lock switch is depressed the L-W is positive but after the lock mechanism the L-R wire carries negative voltage to ground. And the Opposite ...when unlock is depressed the L-R wire becomes positive and the L-W carries negative voltage to ground. If this is the case you need to do what I did and wire it up as shown in the bottom right image in the lower diagram. So orange and orange/black to ground, white and white/black are signal wires that go to door locks, yellow and yellow/black go to pos+.

 

[Turd Furgeson]

Looking at this diagram from the 84-90 fsm the wires on the FJ62 lock and unlock relays should be light blue/red (L-R) and Light blue/white (L-R). I'm not very familiar with the "permanent relay fix" by slcfj62. Do the brown wires that come off "85" post go to the light blue wires? The light blue wires carry signal to the lock actuators and switch polarity to carry current to ground. So for example when the lock switch is depressed the L-W is positive but after the lock mechanism the L-R wire carries negative voltage to ground. And the Opposite ...when unlock is depressed the L-R wire becomes positive and the L-W carries negative voltage to ground. If this is the case you need to do what I did and wire it up as shown in the bottom right image in the lower diagram. So orange and orange/black to ground, white and white/black are signal wires that go to door locks, yellow and yellow/black go to pos+.

Alright that was helpful, thanks g-man i really appreciate the insight. I spent some more time on this and here's what ended up working. I got the first option here to work where I've got the Yellow, Yellow/Black (Normally Open) on the positive terminal and the white, white/black (Common) going to the brown wires after the permanent fix. I tried at first including the orange (normally closed) but I ended up not needing them at all. For whatever reason, and by this thread you can tell i'm not an electrical engineer, the issue was with the black cable coming off of the remote control unit. When I have that on the negative battery terminal and connected to a ground, it works. If i've got the black cable on the negative terminal and not grounded, it wont work.
I'll keep messing with it, but the good news is if anyone wants to do this mod for like $12, its possible.

 

[g-man]

I did also have some success splicing the brown wires in the remote system to my turn signals, but one needed a diode to keep current moving in one direction, otherwise the signal wouldn't work right. Also forget about running the wire to the horn. Our horns are negatively switched so positive current running to it isn't going do do anything.

 

[Spook50]

I did also have some success splicing the brown wires in the remote system to my turn signals, but one needed a diode to keep current moving in one direction, otherwise the signal wouldn't work right. Also forget about running the wire to the horn. Our horns are negatively switched so positive current running to it isn't going do do anything.

If you have aftermarket horns with a relay, the addition of a positive switched relay nearby would solve this. It would make the wiring a bit more convoluted, but if you're familiar with wiring relays, not bad at all. Personally I'd do it. Nice to have a touch more modernization.

 

[WoodnotRust]

From @slcfj62 's "permanent fix post just before @ad20k added relays with a keyless entry:

That's a good idea. I hadn't even thought about that. But before you hook the remote up, double check how it is supposed to play with the existing locks. The power door lock ground goes back through the other switch. At rest, both switches are grounded (Toyotas idea, not mine). When you push the switch (UP or DOWN), it breaks the ground contact before it makes the 12V contact. This is called a "break before make" switch. So if you connect the output of your remote lock unit to the relay coil, bad things will happen when your remote unit tries to energize the relay, because you won't be pushing the switch and interrupting the ground. You might be able to use a different relay with your remote that could integrate the remote with the switches, something like a double pole double throw relay instead of the double pole single throw, but I'd have to see what the schematic looks like for how your remote is supposed to hook into the vehicle wiring before I could tell.

I read where @ad20k chose to add his relays on the vehicle side of the connector. Reading slcFJ62's warning above, I am hesitant to add the relay's on the master-switch side of the connector, but it would certainly be easier from an access point of view.

Does it matter where the lock and unlock relays are positioned with respect to the place where the keyless entry wires are spliced? I'm doing this as a color-by-number sort of exercise which is why I've gone through such pains to translate previous wiring diagrams to my own situation. I almost understand...and think I can pull it off if given the go-ahead.

 

[LA Z]

The diagram looks good. Should be safe to follow.
I do have some suggestions for you to consider.

Don’t use the wire marked W-B for grounding the relays, that’s one of the week point in the system.
( old wires and connectors )
Ground the relays under the dashboard to the body directly. Install relays on vehicle side.
Same reason as above. The less of the old wires and connectors are utilized the better.

Make sure your fusible link that supplies power to the door looks is in good shape.

Good luck.
Keep us posted.

 

[WoodnotRust]

Getting closer... please take a look at this photo of my actual wiring and let me know if I got this right.

 

[LA Z]

We seem to have a miss understanding here.

On your picture

1. bottom left note Pretty much the worst place in the whole wiring harness to wire the relays. ( Sorry didn't mean to com off as rude, just want to make it clear )
reason : One extra ( possibly bad ) connector and a few inches of old wiring.

2. bottom right note Don't need to run the ground wire to B-W
reason : " Ground the relays under the dashboard to the body directly. Install relays on vehicle side. "
What I meant by this is that you place the relays under the dash and run the ground wire from them
to the body as short of a wire as possible. This would be the high current side of the circuit.

3. middle right note The connector should be sufficient for the lower current after the relays are installed. No need for a bypass.


4. top right note Don't cut the B-W wire and cap. This wire is needed to supply the ground for the circuit to work.


I would also solder all connections, and possibly move the point of connection for the high current wires to the kick panel.
You can find all wires needed for the door lock mod. Again just trying to utilize less of the old wiring for the high current side.

Hope this will make it clear.

 

[WoodnotRust]

We seem to have a miss understanding here.

Thanks. Yes, this does help. I've got the kick plate removed where I should be able to find all of the wiring. It's a real mess as the PO installed an alarm system AND back-up sensors and all of this wiring is zip-tied or dangling in this area. I can and will solder connections where heat-shrink butt connectors can't be used. Again...appreciate the help.

 

[WoodnotRust]

OMG...I'm so bummed. So, I just finished the power-door lock fix for keyless entry without success at the end. The previous owner had installed a "Viper" 1-way alarm system with keyless entry. I looked a that wiring and it appeared to match @ad20k 's exactly, so I jumped right into the master "lock/unlock" switch mod suggested by @ad20k. I cut the white-black ground wire and removed the metal in that switch (to make it simple "on-off"?) and put it all back together.

On the wiring cheat sheet, please ignore the reference to a ground wire going to a point under the dash. That ground is the ground connected to the 4 wires of the relay shown below.

Based on guidance from LA Z (which I hope I've followed exactly), I installed the two relays under the dash right behind my fuse box. Here is a picture of the wiring cheat sheet I used to help wire-up the relays under the dash. I'm not a flexible as I used to be in my youth, so to say it was a PItA to make all the connections is an understatement. I did crimped butt connections into the wiring loom for the 2 Blue-white and 2 Blue-red connections and soldered the two blue wires from the relay onto the red wire. I had to twist it around to get it reconnected, but I believe all the connections held.

The two yellow and white wires from both relays ended in ring connections and all were bolted together with short (8") pigtail that grounded to a screw by the fuse box.

What did I do wrong and how do I fix it?

 

[LA Z]

Pm sent.

 

[WoodnotRust]

Thanks to @LA Z for helping me understand the finer points of adding relays for the power windows in combination with a keyless entry system. slcfj62's original post showed the relays added in the door between the connector and the master switch. Many mud members confirm that his modification works when done exactly as shown.

For those of us with keyless entry systems the mod done by @ad20k works too when done exactly as shown in this thread. @ad20k spliced in the relays on the vehicle side of the connector, but still in the door. In both of these locations, the blue-white/blue-red wires are cut per slcfj62's original wiring diagram with the relays between the four door actuators and the switch.

I learned that things can change when deviating from the above directions. Here's where I went wrong: Thinking I could get a better ground and avoid bad wiring in the door, I added the relays to the wiring harness just behind the fuse box below the dash. In that position, the relays are actually between the front door actuator and the other 3 door actuators. YOU CANNOT wire-up the relays per SLCfj62's in this location. But, you can still do the keyless entry mod with the relays here...it just requires a different wiring diagram. The blue-white and blue-red wires are NOT CUT...the relays wires simply splice into these wires. Although it was too late for me, I learned that it isn't necessary to modify the switch per ad20K's post.

With a little (lot) of guidance from LA Z, I'm now halfway finished with this mod. The door locks jump up and down with authority when tested. All that remains is to splice in one wire from the lock and unlock relays into my keyless entry system wires.

Can't wait for this to be behind me!