How To: Keyless entry for a 62 (1 Viewer)

[Spook50]

Thanks to @LA Z for helping me understand the finer points of adding relays for the power windows in combination with a keyless entry system. slcfj62's original post showed the relays added in the door between the connector and the master switch. Many mud members confirm that his modification works when done exactly as shown.

For those of us with keyless entry systems the mod done by @ad20k works too when done exactly as shown in this thread. @ad20k spliced in the relays on the vehicle side of the connector, but still in the door. In both of these locations, the blue-white/blue-red wires are cut per slcfj62's original wiring diagram with the relays between the four door actuators and the switch.

I learned that things can change when deviating from modifying the above directions. Here's where I went wrong: Thinking I could get a better ground and avoid bad wiring in the door, I added the relays to the wiring harness just behind the fuse box below the dash. In that position, the relays are actually between the front door actuator and the other 3 door actuators. YOU CANNOT wire-up the relays per SLCfj62's in this location. But, you can still do the keyless entry mod with the relays here...it just requires a different wiring diagram. The blue-white and blue-red wires are NOT CUT...the relays wires simply splice into these wires. Although it was too late for me, I learned that it isn't necessary to modify the switch per ad20K's post.

With a little (lot) of guidance from LA Z, I'm now halfway finished with this mod. The door locks jump up and down with authority when tested. All that remains is to splice in one wire from the lock and unlock relays into my keyless entry system wires.

Can't wait for this to be behind me!

How well does your driver's side rear work? Those are notorious for being "lazy" or downright inoperable in both stock conditions and after mods like this and the one from @slcfj62 that I did years ago (and undid when I installed a brand new master switch and began soldering weak factory splices).

 

[WoodnotRust]

How well does your driver's side rear work? Those are notorious for being "lazy" or downright inoperable in both stock conditions and after mods like this and the one from @slcfj62 that I did years ago (and undid when I installed a brand new master switch and began soldering weak factory splices).

Hi Spook...I couldn't tell. It seemed like I could hear all of them jump, but I had my head beneath the steering wheel testing the newly installed relays so I could only see the passenger side from that vantage point. I'm soldering a couple of relay connections now since I know those wires are properly connected. Once I get all the wiring hooked up I'll make a short video and focus on the driver's side locks.

 

[WoodnotRust]

Finally...whew. The power locks work great on all 5 doors and the door switch works. I had planned to put in diodes to protect the alarm/keyless entry module but just couldn't summon the energy. Maybe when they are delivered next week I'll feel inspired, but since I had tested the locks about 20 times and nothing happened to the alarm I'm hoping for the best. This type of work is definitely not in my wheel house, but I'm glad that I did it nonetheless. A big thanks to @slcfj62 and @ad20k for their posts and to @LA Z for helping me fix my first mistake and keeping me from making more.

I plan to do the window relays next, but it seems like all the windows are working better now for some odd reason. [EDIT: the passenger front window is still terribly slow up/down and driver rear is slow going up. The driver window works works great. ]. Maybe it's the combination of a new ground and cleaning all the connections...or perhaps it's that refurbished driver-door relay (green box) done by @Spook50.

Here's a quick video showing the working locks.

 

[Seth S]

I read "keyless entry" and my first thought was.....isn't that when you just smash the drivers window?