How To: Keyless entry for a 62

ad20k

 
Joined
Jul 15, 2007
Messages
326
Location
Houston, TX
I puzzled over how to install this keyless entry system for a few weeks until I saw SLCFJ62's post on power window and lock fixes using relays. A tip of the hat to SLCFJ62 and his excellent writeup as it made adding the keyless entry unit a lot easier.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wa...anent-fix.html

Once the relays are installed per the above post, the double pole switching of power and ground to the door lock actuators are done by the relays and we can simply hook up the door lock switch and the keyless entry module to work in parallel so either can put 12V to the coil side of the lock and unlock relays.

The keyless entry module I used was a Clarion K20. I am under the impression after looking at a few that most keyless entry modules have the same wires so this should work for other units. The wiring diagram looked like this:
WireDiagram.jpg
 

ad20k

 
Joined
Jul 15, 2007
Messages
326
Location
Houston, TX
Part 2: How to add keyless entry to a 62

I put the keyless entry module into the driver side kick panel. Wire up the keyless entry power (pin 1 - red) and ground (pin11 - black). Also wire the switched ignition input (pin15 - yellow).

For the door locks wire the Lock 87 (pin7 – violet/black) and Lock 87 (pin9 – violet) to a constant 12V source. At this point you should be able to plug in the module and using a volt meter, see it switch 12V momentarily to the Lock 30 (pin 5 – green/black) and Unlock 30 (pin 8 – blue/black) when you press the buttons on the remote.

Next comes the fun part. Run wires connecting the Lock 30 (pin 5 – green/black) and Unlock 30 (pin 8 – blue/black) out to the driver’s door where we spliced in the relays per SLCFJ62’s post. You will have to extend the wires from the module harness. Since the switching current is low, fine gage wire is OK (I used 24 gage but I would have used 18 or 20 gage if I had any around). I ended up taking the door partially off to get at the wire grommets near the hinge.

Make sure to tie the wires alongside the wire loom in the door so they won’t get caught up in the window actuator.

Now connect the Lock 30 (pin 5 – green/black) to the Lock relay brown wire and the Unlock 30 (pin 8 – blue/black) to the Unlock relay brown wire. This picture shows the rats nest. The relays are tucked out of sight in the door. Note that I spliced the relays into the harness on the door wire loom side instead of between the switch and connector as described in SLCFJ62’s post.
IMG_1252mod2.jpg
 

ad20k

 
Joined
Jul 15, 2007
Messages
326
Location
Houston, TX
Part 3, How To: Keyless entry for a 62

Caution: don’t plug the master switch connector to the door wire loom yet.

With the door switch still disconnected from the door wire loom, you should now be able to lock and unlock the doors with the keyless entry. Now we have to modify the door switch to make it behave like a simple double throw on/off switch. First, remove the plastic wire cover and de-solder or cut the ground wire from the switch (white with black stripe).
IMG_1250.jpg
 

ad20k

 
Joined
Jul 15, 2007
Messages
326
Location
Houston, TX
Part 4, How To: Keyless entry for a 62

Next remove the two small screws and carefully open the switch as the rocker contacts and spring pins will fall out.

On the top cover, use a dremel tool or wire snips to cut the metal strip as shown.

These two images show the original condition (left) and modified with the rocker contacts in place (right). Put the switch back together and now connect the master door switch to the door wire loom and test it out. Reassemble the door and panel and you’re done!
IMG_1247.jpg
IMG_1249mod.jpg
 

Spook50

Get ready
 
Joined
Feb 16, 2005
Messages
5,155
Location
Spokane, WA
Dayamn, another good mod for 62s this year. I'm gonna have to get my hands on one of those Clarion setups and do mine up too.

Question though; are you still able to use the switch on the door just as if everything were still stock? it's hard to picture how the wiring has been changed in my head, so looking at your switch mod, I couldn't tell for sure if control is given completely to the keyless entry or not.
 

ad20k

 
Joined
Jul 15, 2007
Messages
326
Location
Houston, TX
Question though; are you still able to use the switch on the door just as if everything were still stock? it's hard to picture how the wiring has been changed in my head, so looking at your switch mod, I couldn't tell for sure if control is given completely to the keyless entry or not.
Yes, with the modified door switch, it will work as it does stock. The door switch and the keyless entry work as two switches wired in parallel.

I borrowed and modified SLCFJ62's wiring diagram to show the changes to help you see the differences. It can be compared with his diagram shown in:

IH8MUD Forums - View Single Post - Power Windows and Door Locks--Permanent Fix!

SLCFJ62; hope you don't mind I borrowed this.
ModWireDiagram.jpg
 
Joined
Oct 25, 2006
Messages
106
Location
park city UT and Heber City UT
keyless entry and relays

thanks to ad20k and to slcfj62 (is this salt lake city fj62) for building these posts and information.

I have been doing some sound deadening, putting in new window channel, and was curious about how to improve the locks and windows. awesome that there is a solution.

i have read through both posts, and have a question i hope you guys can help with.

i had purchased my truck with PO keyless entry. its nice, though only the driver side door works!

the keyless entry install cut the black, and the black yellow on the connector to switch. they then connected two wires from the switch side, and two wires from the harness side, and ran into the door. i am assuming there is a switch in there for lock, and a switch for unlock related to the keyless entry.

i noticed your schematic has the keyless entry tapped into the black, and black yellow, but curious how the wire taps into the red power wire? direct into keyless entry?

can i use these parallel switches? do i still need to cut the white black ground off? thanks for any insight and help.
 

slcfj62

 
Joined
Oct 29, 2008
Messages
2,442
Location
In the valley of the Great Salt Lake.
thanks to ad20k and to slcfj62 (is this salt lake city fj62) for building these posts and information.

the keyless entry install cut the black, and the black yellow on the connector to switch. they then connected two wires from the switch side, and two wires from the harness side, and ran into the door. i am assuming there is a switch in there for lock, and a switch for unlock related to the keyless entry.

i noticed your schematic has the keyless entry tapped into the black, and black yellow, but curious how the wire taps into the red power wire? direct into keyless entry?

can i use these parallel switches? do i still need to cut the white black ground off? thanks for any insight and help.
88tlc--just read through the isuzu conversion thread. All I can say is WOW. I so would like to do that, but I think I will wait until my 3FE craters. I'm located in West Jordan. I can't really help you much with your keyless entry other than to tell you that the Toyota door switches are at ground when not being pressed. You will want your keyless entry actuator to be in parallel with the switches so you can operate the locks both ways. So that means you need to modify the wiring/switches to account for this (see ad20k's mod). It is puzzling that only the drivers door works, because all the lock solenoids are wired in parallel. Do all the locks work via the lock/unlock door switch?

I am also in process with sound deadning. I am using the stuff from RAAMaudio.com. The guy is located here on the Wasatch Front, and knows a ton about the subject. I am discovering that we have a lot of Landcruiser expertise here in Utah.
 
Joined
Oct 25, 2006
Messages
106
Location
park city UT and Heber City UT
keyless entry and relays

the keyless entry works well, and the locks try to go up and down, just not enough power. they all seem to try hard but fail, they just can not wait for some juice!

i will use the relays as you have diagrammed.

I will then incorporate the switch mods, to essentially remove the ground, as ad20k has described.

and then i will see how the keyless entry does with it wired in parallel.

the keyless entry as i recall is wired now so that the lock button does not work? i need to check this again, but i do recall this.

I see that in order to do this right, i am going to have to dig out that keyless entry module, and find all the wires, connections, and definitions to be sure.

to be honest i have had this truck for 10 years. i bought it in portland from an awesome Intel guy who babied it. but the locks and windows have always been lazy.

the recent diesel conversion was a great conversion, but reinvested me in this truck. the old 3fe worked, the a440f tranny worked, just not a lot of power, poor gas mileage, and the altitude and big hills just worked it hard. so the new isuzu diesel has breathed some new life in the FJ62, with 20-25 mpg, great power with 33 inch wheels. the least i could do was some of these details like the locks, doors, sound proofing, and new rubbers in windows and doors.
 
Joined
Oct 25, 2006
Messages
106
Location
park city UT and Heber City UT
keyless entry and relays

did a little more digging in my fj62, with the keyless entry already installed. as i described before the black, and black/yellow have already been cut, and replaced with two wires spliced into the switch side, and two wires spliced onto the harness side, and in they go into the driver side kick panel.

here there is a mess of wires. there is already three relays, two look like for the door locks, and another for a start interrupt.

the keyless entry is a Clifford Polaris II. i found a wiring diagram for this thing,

http://www.autoelectric.ru/autoalarm/clifford/polaris2/polaris2-m.htm

dont worry its not in russian.

there is a lot of wiring already done on this and incorporates the alarm system for the door switches for alarm, a resonance sensor, a valet switch, the alarm horn, and so on.

remove it all and start over? my locks currently do not all work properly. the back two try but fail, the passenger can make it perhaps half the time.

also, my door lock button does not work, and it does not appear there are any mods to this?


thanks for any help, this electrical stuff is admittedly not my strength....
 
Joined
Oct 25, 2006
Messages
106
Location
park city UT and Heber City UT
keyless entry on a clifford polaris II

was looking into the wiring that was done on the clifford alarm and keyless entry. thought i would add some data to help in finding a solution.

the clifford lock, and unlock wires are a ground, and so as the diagrams show, see attached 'reversed polarity' how its wired now, the keyless wires are used as a ground, on the coil circuit with a +12 v power source. currently the 87a on the relay gets the switch side of the wire, and the port 30 get the power lock side of the wire.

here is the best that i could come up with?

from this writeup, we need a +12v signal in parallel with the switch. so i am thinking of using the relay that is currently there, to provide a +12v signal to a relay as described in slcfj62 write up.? so its a relay providing a signal to a relay?

another question that relates to the stock wiring. is the power lock circuit hot? or only hot with key hot? I currently have not power at the door powerlock button, and it does not work, only the keyless entry works (only manages to open the two front doors).
polaris2.diagram.jpg
 
Joined
Oct 25, 2006
Messages
106
Location
park city UT and Heber City UT
keyless entry on a clifford polaris II

i decided to cut all the wires from the keyless entry, and start with the relays as described by slcfj62. I soldered the switch legs, and power legs, and tapped into the grounds.

power-windows-door-locks-permanent-fix.html

the circuit did not work. my lock switch had no power to it. i dont think it has worked as long as I have owned it, some 10 years! a quick search around on ih8mud though, i was able to find the circuit breaker, reset it, and now they work!

fj62-door-lock-circuit-breaker-fuse-location.html

i also modified the lock switch as per this thread, and cleaned all the contacts. they were amazingly dirty, and pitted.

so now, the relays are in place in the door. i now plan to use the #30 wire from the keyless entry relays, to run parallel with the door switch. this changes the negative signal from the clifford controller, and makes it a positive signal. the wires are already running through the door, so its just rewiring the two #30 legs.
 

ad20k

 
Joined
Jul 15, 2007
Messages
326
Location
Houston, TX
88tlc; Sounds like you have it sorted out. I saw the activity on this thread and had been digging through my records to see if I had the 12V, ground, no connection switching and wire color codes to make the locks work. I'll post it up if I can find it.

Did adding the relays fix the lazy locks?
 
Joined
Oct 25, 2006
Messages
106
Location
park city UT and Heber City UT
keyless entry using clifford polaris

The door locks all worked great with the relays installed. LAzy no more!.... well the drivers side, rear door was still lazy.

i took the door panel off, and on the rear doors there is like more bell cranks, a slide, and rotating assemblies. all need a good squirt of lithium grease, and cycling.

tried it again, and worked like a charm! so i would recommend giving the rear door locks some lube in like 5 locations.

Now the alarm system. as i described before this clifford alarm/keyless entry has a neg (-) signal. so, i simply left the relays that were installed, and moved the switched power #30 from the lock and unlock, into parallel with the switch, and it works great.

I have to say again, what a treat this is! This may be typical of 88 fj62 and newer:

My inside door lock switch has not worked since i bought the truck, 10 years ago! i found the circuit breaker, and more importantly changed the wiring, added the relays, and modified the switch as ad20k described.

the keyless entry worked, so i always just used this. it is really convenient.

the door locks then started dying off... the rear doors would not work, the passenger would lock unlock half the time, the drivers side would work, and i just lived with that.

now they all work.

They work so good in fact that they 'slam', they are noisy! so i took out the 20 year old rubber bumper that the bellcrank 'slams' onto, and replaced it with some of the closed cell eva foam block. its now so quiet! and they work!

a great mod/update/maintenance component for the fj62.
 
Last edited:

ad20k

 
Joined
Jul 15, 2007
Messages
326
Location
Houston, TX
They work so good in fact that they 'slam', they are noisy! so i took out the 20 year old rubber bumper that the bellcrank 'slams' onto, and replaced it with some of the closed cell eva foam block. its now so quiet! and they work!
I need to do this to mine. They sound like they are about to shoot out of the doors.

Glad you got everything working. :cheers:
 

Spudman

Addicted to 60's
Joined
Mar 25, 2012
Messages
1,565
Location
Halls Creek, Western Australia
Bringing an old thread back to life

I've just read this thread, I have factory central locking but I'm not going to install the relays in the doors, as my door locks nearly shoot through the top of the doors every time I open them.

But I am trying to wire up my Mongoose M60 alarm to the central locking system and I've read here and other posts that the door locks are negatively triggered, now to get them to work it has been mentioned that relays need to used to get it to work.

So my question is, the below diagram what I need to do to get the remote to work the central locking.

I'm gonna have a go at this tomorrow and see if I can get it to work



:cheers: Spudman
 

Spudman

Addicted to 60's
Joined
Mar 25, 2012
Messages
1,565
Location
Halls Creek, Western Australia
Ok so I got up early today and thought fxxx it, I'm going to nail this central locking :grinpimp:

Wired it up as per my diagram and yep, nothing :bang::censor:

Alright I've got this far, I'll wire up the relays as per the permanent fix for the central locking, (I already had powerful locks) but I thought might as well we'll go down this path :clap:

So I wired that up tested it, all good and nice and easy as per the diagrams :D

Then I thought ok now I'll wire up the remote as per the instructions here.

When I came to altering the door lock/unlock switch, the setup is slightly different as I have the original master switch and it appears that the op has the aftermarket switch.

But I boxed on anyway, I'm thinking by now this is never going to work, so I plugged the master switch back in and tried it and Walla it worked :bounce::bounce2:

So I still have a couple of little problems that I'm not going to work about. 1. The first time I activate the alarm the doors lock it sets and then the alarm goes off, I then unlock and lock again and all good. 2. The door lock/unlock switch no longer unlocks.

Anyway I think it's as good as it's gonna get

:cheers: Spudman
 

Spudman

Addicted to 60's
Joined
Mar 25, 2012
Messages
1,565
Location
Halls Creek, Western Australia
Well that was short lived, think I might have spoken to soon, or something purely coincidental. :bang:

I went out to the car this evening to go to the shops.

Pressed the remote doors opened, jumped in and started the truck, it ran for about 10 seconds, the dash lights came on when I started it. It then stalled and then the doors locked.

I pressed the remote unlocked the doors and went to turn the key, no lights on the dash, tried arming disarming the central locking works fine, but still not dash lights.

Checked all the fuses they are all good.

First click of the key, stereo and clock come on, second click no dash lights.

Any help appreciated

:cheers: Spudman
 
Top Bottom