So I adjusted the amp and now it kicks on at lower rpm. I hooked up some gauges and got this reading. I was wondering if I should add a. Bit more of freon
How to install A/C in a 1st Gen Pickup/4Runner (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter yotadude520
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What's your outside temp? Seems a bit low depending on your ambient temp. Is it blowing cold? How much refrigerant did you put in? Looks like you're moving in the right direction.
It's about 85 out here right now . It blows "cold" the stupid amazon gauges are trash so I'm reduced to using the gauge off the small refill cannister. I've added some more freon and it's a bit colder now and air during idle is colder then before. I just don't know what the heck it's supposed to feel like some people say theirs is ice cold. I think in general the center vents in my truck are junk the ball vent and side vents have more flow thru them
So now I have another issue and I don't know if I messed up the compressor or its something else. When I turn on the ac it makes a rattle noise when I turn it off it goes back to normal. This sound is new to me and hadn't heard it before. I wonder if I killed my compressor. It only makes the noise at idle once I give it gas the noise goes away.
Most of the time I had trouble with my gauges was due to the charge port adapters. I don't know what to say about the noise. Hard for me to tell. Does it change with RPM? Make sure it's not the belt or something simple. Is it the engine lugging? Does the idle raise when you turn on the A/C?
I've changed a LOT of compressors over the years and it was usually because they leaked or the clutch was bad. Customers would rather pay for a new compressor with a warranty than all the labor of fixing the old one. I've seen siezed up ones from being run out of oil. I can't recall any that were bad and still cooled the cab. Not saying yours isn't a problem, I just haven't seen bad ones actually cool. I'd think your gauges would show pulsating readings or something.
Drive it around and see if it cools enough. If you think it could be colder, try a little more refrigerant. My system when I charge is usually what I posted. About 30 ish low side and 200 ish high side but pressures drops as the cab cools down and there is more air across the condenser while driving. It constantly fluctuates depending on the ambient temperature and cab temp.
Also make sure your heater valve works and you don't have heat from the heater core blending with your A/C.
I've changed a LOT of compressors over the years and it was usually because they leaked or the clutch was bad. Customers would rather pay for a new compressor with a warranty than all the labor of fixing the old one. I've seen siezed up ones from being run out of oil. I can't recall any that were bad and still cooled the cab. Not saying yours isn't a problem, I just haven't seen bad ones actually cool. I'd think your gauges would show pulsating readings or something.
Drive it around and see if it cools enough. If you think it could be colder, try a little more refrigerant. My system when I charge is usually what I posted. About 30 ish low side and 200 ish high side but pressures drops as the cab cools down and there is more air across the condenser while driving. It constantly fluctuates depending on the ambient temperature and cab temp.
Also make sure your heater valve works and you don't have heat from the heater core blending with your A/C.
So when ac is off it idles just below 1k when ac turns on it drops down some. I can't seem to figure out how to make the idle higher even with the diagrahm screw. I belive the noise is inside the engine when the idle drops lower
If you can't turn the idle up with the valve, it can be the valve itself, the solenoid valve on the valve cover, (I forgot the name of it) the hoses could be hooked up wrong or the wiring.
Regardless of the idle up working or not, the A/C should still work. Take it for a short drive and see how it feels.
Regardless of the idle up working or not, the A/C should still work. Take it for a short drive and see how it feels.
Can you give us a picture of the two vacuum hoses from the VSV to the diaphragm? Something tells me they might be backwards.
It was backwards before I believe and when ac was off it would hiss so I switched them. But I will take a pic. Also both vsv and diaphragm are oem new
Here are the pics
Alright, got it all reworked and got roughly a can or so of refrigerant in the system. This is my pressure on hi/low. Air temp coming out of the system is about 55 degrees. Am I asking for too much for it to be colder? I'm fine if this is the best it can get but any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
Drive it around and see how it does. Make sure your heater is not dumping any heat into the system. I'm glad you are making progress.
dohcdelsol93
snoogans
My system is running a 2005 vw compressor so I'm not at optimal running conditions on an expansion valve system. That being said 48 is the lowest temp I've been able to achieve. On a hot 90 degree day it's in the lower to mid 50s. I have a soft top so my cab air recirculating system isn't ideal either.
I find it most efficient on the BI air floor/dash vent setting. Temps will increase if I put it on dash vent only, slightly but it is noticable
Your pressures are similar to mine unless I'm taking a reading after a 30 minute commute home from work on a 90 degree day, then my high side is closer to 275-280. I run the same weight of r132 on my aftermarket condenser as I did on the OEM 4 runner condenser. With the OEM set up the pressure could spike on hot humid days at idle to where the pressure switch would cut compressor power, the new condenser has eliminated that entirely.
When I compare the 4 runner pressures to that of the disco 2 and gmc terrain they are running temps in the 40s and the high side pressure is closer to 180. I cannot get my 4 runner to cool at all with that low of a pressure. I don't start cooling until I add more refrigerant and the pressure gets above 200. I removed my factory expansion valve to replace with a new denso/ evap core cleaning with no noticeable change in performance or pressures. The evap wasn't very dirty and I had refreshed all the foam in the HVAC system during the resto-mod build.
I hope these observations and comparisons help. Unfortunately my set up isn't identical to yours but it's close.
I find it most efficient on the BI air floor/dash vent setting. Temps will increase if I put it on dash vent only, slightly but it is noticable
Your pressures are similar to mine unless I'm taking a reading after a 30 minute commute home from work on a 90 degree day, then my high side is closer to 275-280. I run the same weight of r132 on my aftermarket condenser as I did on the OEM 4 runner condenser. With the OEM set up the pressure could spike on hot humid days at idle to where the pressure switch would cut compressor power, the new condenser has eliminated that entirely.
When I compare the 4 runner pressures to that of the disco 2 and gmc terrain they are running temps in the 40s and the high side pressure is closer to 180. I cannot get my 4 runner to cool at all with that low of a pressure. I don't start cooling until I add more refrigerant and the pressure gets above 200. I removed my factory expansion valve to replace with a new denso/ evap core cleaning with no noticeable change in performance or pressures. The evap wasn't very dirty and I had refreshed all the foam in the HVAC system during the resto-mod build.
I hope these observations and comparisons help. Unfortunately my set up isn't identical to yours but it's close.
Whats the difference between original ac idle up valve and the new one?
Could someone please post what diaphragm you used part number and how you have it plugged in with the power steering because I can't seem to get my engine to idle up when the ac kicks on.
So this is how I have it set up. No matter how down or up I set the diaphragm it doesn't idle up. Am I doing it wrong? These are the parts I have on the truck. What could be my issue.
Part No.: 88606-32010 DIAPHRAGM SUB-ASSY | 1 |
| Part No.: 88690-22470 VALVE ASSY |
So this is how I have it set up. No matter how down or up I set the diaphragm it doesn't idle up. Am I doing it wrong? These are the parts I have on the truck.
DIAPHRAGM SUB-ASSY
VALVE ASSY
The hose going to the throttle body should have vacuum when the A/C idle up solenoid OR the P/S switch activates the valve, (If I'm remembering correctly) Try putting vacuum directly to the port on the throttle body. Bypass the valve and see if the idle speeds up.
I dont follow. Can you please explain as if I'm 5.
