How to check if a F engine is good (1 Viewer)

[Project Rusty Gold]

How do you tech guys check to see if an F engine is in need of a rebuild
When I bought the 1971 FJ55 we drove it home at 60 mph 0-60 took some time but not to much of a problem. Why I am asking is I live on a steep hill the start is about 10% with a turn right off the bat and F engine seem to struggle some in 2nd gear a lot. Another potential problem is the carb in not the original, it is a GM 2 JET, would that be the cause of the lack of power. Also I have a manifold leak at the gasket. And last is that one of the PO had the engine apart because they used a different seals the glue kind.
Sorry for the long post and the lack of knowledge. I am still learning.

Ken

 

[Splangy]

1) I'm assuming you're talking about a vacuum leak at the manifold. Fix that first. No engine will run OK with a vacuum leak.
2) Do a compression and/or leak down test to give you a rough idea of the engine's health.
3) Keep your eyes peeled for the factory carb. Even if that Rochester is a good fit, it's probably tired and could use a rebuild. You're better off investing your money in the right carb.

How do you tech guys check to see if an F engine is in need of a rebuild
When I bought the 1971 FJ55 we drove it home at 60 mph 0-60 took some time but not to much of a problem. Why I am asking is I live on a steep hill the start is about 10% with a turn right off the bat and F engine seem to struggle some in 2nd gear a lot. Another potential problem is the carb in not the original, it is a GM 2 JET, would that be the cause of the lack of power. Also I have a manifold leak at the gasket. And last is that one of the PO had the engine apart because they used a different seals the glue kind.
Sorry for the long post and the lack of knowledge. I am still learning.

Ken

 

[tyama]

1f engine rebuild

2X on the compression/ leakdown test & then looking at vacuum leaks & a carb rebuild. If you find you have really poor compression, it might be cheaper to find a good, used 2F and upgrade. The pigs are slow anyway, but should do ok in 2nd up most hills.

Regards,

ty

 

[Project Rusty Gold]

Sorry but what is a leakdown test.
I do not have access to a 2F that is in good condition and close, also I would like to keep this engine.

 

[tyama]

IIRC, a leakdown test is when compressed air is pumped into your cylinders to check for pressure retention. It is reported better than a compression test to test engine conditions.

In my mind, I think a tired, old F engine is not a good candidate for rebuilding unless your going for an original restoration. Hopefully, it won't come to that and you just have a carb or vacuum problem.

ty

 

[cjgoode]

Do a compression test first, a compression gauge is cheap and easy to use. If it shows good compression in all cylinders then I would skip a leak down test. No need to test for leaks if you do not have one that is a problem. If you have a low compression in some of the cylinders then do a leak down test, it will help you determine if the low compression is from the rings leaking or the valves leaking or both. Search this site for what is acceptable compression numbers.

Then check for the vacuum leak, do the carb last as that will cost money, no point in spending the money if the compression is shot, if you look for a 2f you might find one with the original carb anyway.

 

[FJ45LWB]

Compression test first to check health of your engine. If you trully do have a vaccum leak at the manifold that could easily be your problem. Can you hear a vaccum leak? I wouldnt worry too much about the gasket sealer.

 

[Project Rusty Gold]

Thanks so much for all the help if the engine is bad is it worth rebuilding.

 

[BDelling]

Also on the compression test, warm up the engine first. If you get a low reading on a cylinder, squirt in some oil and retest. If the number go up, it's rings. If the numbers stay the same, it's a valve(s).

 

[Pighead]

If the numbers stay the same, it's a value(s).

It's "Valves."

-Skirret

 

[FJ45LWB]

Thanks so much for all the help if the engine is bad is it worth rebuilding.

It really depends on what your plans for the project are... The f engine is old, expensive to rebuild, and getting harder to find parts for. But if you wanna stay original, why not, rebuild it. You could probably find a good running 2f for cheaper than rebuilding your original engine.

 

[cjgoode]

There is a difference between truly stock and a stock look and feel. Very few people unless they are real cruiser heads would know the difference between a 1f and 2f.

 

[Project Rusty Gold]

This post need some pics of the engine sorry for the delay. I am not looking for a stock toyota but a DD and a long haul vehicle. But money is tight so an engine swap would take some time to save up for.

The first is of the engine before some cleaning and the seconded is the leak both the exhaust and vacuum I believe

 

[65swb45]

1) I'm assuming you're talking about a vacuum leak at the manifold. Fix that first. No engine will run OK with a vacuum leak.
2) Do a compression and/or leak down test to give you a rough idea of the engine's health.
3) Keep your eyes peeled for the factory carb. Even if that Rochester is a good fit, it's probably tired and could use a rebuild. You're better off investing your money in the right carb.

Couldn't have said it better.

Ken, if you want good advise, give us numbers to work with, vacuum and compression. It would be useful to get a vacuum reading BEFORE you even delve into changing the manifold gasket. Seriously.

Best

Mark A.

 

[BDelling]

The oil around the manifold is probably from a leaking valve cover gasket - F engines are known for leaky valve covers (read Mark's FAQ section on his website (the poster above me - he's a LC guru - take his advise - it's GOLD) - http://www.marksoffroad.net/FAQ.html - I learned alot from this - he talks about F engines, and their valve covers, plus alot of very useful info). A vaccum leak will not leak oil, it will suck air. You can check for vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner around the manifold while it's running (I'd do that cold - start her up and spray), if the engine slows down or dies, you have a vacuum leak. Carb cleaner is probably flammable, so I wouldn't spray it around a hot manifold. Others can chime in on a better vacuum leak testing method, but that is one I have heard of. Also, you can probably "rent", for free, a compression tester from autozone and the like - they have loaner tools, if you don't have one.

 

[landcrusher909]

There is alot of good advice here. I am more incline to guess if you can hear the exaust leak its a simple fix. Compression tests are worth doing, I am not much of a vaccum guy. replacing the intake/exaust gasket is a simple fix. If this were mine I would head to Napa and order a carb kit, and pick up some vaccum plugs ( not hose with a bolt in it ), gasket material, Find Irongiant here in the board and order a Remflex exhaust gaskets (header - manifold - gasket) - OnLine Catalog gasket you wont regret it. Take a day pull the carb clean and rebuild it. ( Its not that hard ), replace the intake/exaust gasket, I make my own carb to intake gaskets. replace the vacuum hoses w/bolts in the end with plugs. and Run it. Remember its called a Pig for a number of reasons LOL Good Luck