How good is your handbrake? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 28, 2023
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Location
Bristol, UK
Ok, so my new shoes need to bed in still tbf, but they can't hold me easily on a slope - I haven't tried swinging on the lever but I'm just wondering what to expect when the handbrake is working optimally!

I've read of people shearing off the plate in low gear - I can't see this happening at the moment!
 
Do some intermittent driving with it set a little bit. (My ex was good at that). When the shoes have full contact and you have a proper seal installed, I consider it an excellent brake. One night I was backing up to a trailer, no backup light, by myself and kept missing by an inch or two. I'd set the brake put it in neutral and check how I did. Over and over. Finally I accidently left it in first (low range) instead of neutral and dumped the clutch to go check and sheared the four bolts holding the backing plate clean off flush, which of course ripped the cable out by the roots in doing so. I was already pissed and we were going on a family camping trip in the morning.
 
Mine is awesome. It will hold on just about any incline, but I still wouldn't trust it.

I'm always amazed how good it is compared to the 80 series and 79 series I drive. Both those handbrakes literally never work and I would never ever trust them anywhere.
We have a fleet of 79 series at work and all of their handbrakes are absolute rubbish, no matter how many times they get tightened/serviced.

40 series handbrakes are awesome!
 
Ok Thanks that's promising; I'll try setting it a couple of clicks for a few miles and hopefully it improves.

I'm sure there'll be a bit of residual oil soaked in the drum, but I've cleaned and boiled out what I can - hopefully the rest bakes out.
 
I like my 1979 set up , short cable with floor handle is the best
Still hold good on incline and trouble free since the resto 20 years ago
Interesting point.. I have the pull type handle so maybe not so much leverage?
I feel like the notches are quite far apart too.
I've adjusted to about 8 clicks in line with the manual, will see how it goes.
 
You have the drum at the gearbox?

I made everything new and my handbrake got better, but not like a modern car. I really need to pull into the "last notch" and then it will hold on a light to medium slope. But I don't really trust it, never without first gear in.
If I need to park at a slope, I will always put in the chocks to make sure, my truck will not "run away".
 
Mine used to be super strong until I drove off in low with it engaged. All rebuilt but cannot get it back like it was. Either loose or too tight... sounds like adjusting it so it rubs some and drive it a bit is the next step? Hopefully wear it down a tad and then the adjuster will put it in the right spot I guess?
 
If I need to park at a slope, I will always put in the chocks to make sure, my truck will not "run away".
The problem I have with chocks is that they need to be removed before proceeding forward (assuming a forward downward slope), and when I'm by myself that still leaves me the condition when I'm out of the vehicle (even if briefly) and something needs to keep it from rolling forward. Backward slopes I guess I could just drive off and leave the chocks 😄. I go through a lot of fence gates that need to be opened, and then closed after I'm through, and I hate shutting the motor off twice at each gate. So I have to have a skookum hand brake, and I'm not completely there yet on some of the steeper slopes.
 
Mine used to be super strong until I drove off in low with it engaged. All rebuilt but cannot get it back like it was. Either loose or too tight... sounds like adjusting it so it rubs some and drive it a bit is the next step? Hopefully wear it down a tad and then the adjuster will put it in the right spot I guess?
Yes drum on transfer.
I feel like I need to adjust it another click on the adjuster but it won't quite get there yet.

Good to hear others have a similar experience.
 
Try ratcheting the adjuster up a notch, mine are adjusted just off draging on the drum and it will hold well. I have the under dash pull lever and it has 10 or 11 to be good and tight, 8 will hold. When you sheared the bolts did it bend/flare the tube on backing plate where cable goes in ? We've all done it. Thank gooness the tail housings are steel/iron not aluminum.
 
Fresh shoes, dry and ideally a turned drum (but not necessary especially if you take the new shoe with sandpaper and scuff the drum surface to prep) and no leaks from seal.

Do that and it should hold on an incline no problem, both of my trucks would hold on black bear no problem....but still used shifter in case I got out of the truck.

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After dragging the handbrake gently a couple of times for short distances; it is definitely working much better!
I parked on a slope and it actually felt pretty solid!

One think I noticed is that there is a bit of play in the drive line I guess, so the truck can still roll slightly before coming to a full stop - a bit like putting an automatic in Park.
 
I recently resealed everything from the timing plate back to the TC (new Orion case). As part of that process, I rebuilt the e-brake (1980 40 series, so between the TC and aft drive line). I had the drum turned... new shoes, all new or refreshed components except the cable and handle. I adjusted it such that there is very little play in it. I get 4-7 clicks on the handle when I set it. To test it, I drove down a steep hill and used just the e-brake to slow it. It had no problem bringing the truck to a full stop from 30mph. So, if fresh and properly adjusted, it is an awesome brake IMO. My TC was leaking prior to re-fresh, so the shoes and drum were oil soaked and it was working very poorly. I made sure to put sealant on the shaft to limit oil from the TC leaking out. So far so good... it's a dry truck now!
 

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