How easy is it to fix a Transmission Cover?

  • Thread starter Jackson Hanes
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J

Jackson Hanes

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I'm just grinding on the inside removing rust still.........
Anyways, I just noticed this rusted out spot. How easy would this be to fix for a complete newbie to metalwork.

IMG 1017
 
J

Jackson Hanes

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Or where would I be able to possibly buy one?
 
65swb45

65swb45

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It would help you get an answer regarding a replacement to know what year you are working with.

A lot of people create a signature line and put their rig info in it. It’s easier than remembering every time you post a question.😉
 
J

Jackson Hanes

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It would help you get an answer regarding a replacement to know what year you are working with.

A lot of people create a signature line and put their rig info in it. It’s easier than remembering every time you post a question.😉
What do you mean by a signature line?
 
Steamer

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If you decide to repair it, I would remove it so you can clean and prep both sides with it out of the vehicle. With it removed you can also clean up the floorboard under the flange as it is most likely rusting under there. Cleaning the cover's bad spots down to bare metal will allow it to bond well to fiberglass or basic body filler.
 
pb4ugo

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As other have said, you should remove the hump so you can remove all the paint, then repair the humps flange. Try to remove the bolts without breaking them. You can use a wire brush, heat and PB Blast the threaded ends of the bolts from underneath the floor. Then work the bolts back and forth to try to remove them. Its easier to remove them than drilling them out. I think I had 1 break, so I threaded it out from the bottom with vise grips. Then I ran a tap thru the threads. I patched my pass side hump flange with part of another hump I had. The drivers side I had to bend up and make a new flange area then scab in a sheet metal piece to fill in the larger hole.

20210517 193024


20210529 002754
 
pjohnson

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PB Blast the threaded ends of the bolts from underneath the floor. Then work the bolts back and forth to try to remove them
@Jackson Hanes

The nuts on the underside are called captured nuts, meaning they are enclosed in a tiny metal cage. The cage will often break and the nut will spin. If that happens you can choose to cut the bolt head off, remove the nut/cage from the underside and replace with a nutsert and new bolt. On mine, I cut off and replaced all the captured nuts with nutserts.
 
65swb45

65swb45

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It’s also good form to post up on a thread you’ve started, acknowledging that you’re keeping up with the input. Sadly, not every who asks a question acknowledges the responses.

And as far as I can tell, you still haven’t indicated what year you are working with.🤷🏻
 
pb4ugo

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I didn't know they used caged nuts for the hump that @pjohnson mentioned. My 75 40 has weld nuts. I remember looking on McMaster Carr and i think they offer metric cage nuts when i was working on early aprons.
 
pjohnson

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@pb4ugo You got me thinking, maybe they were weld nuts (it's been a while). Same advice applies though if they break free.
 
J

Jackson Hanes

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As other have said, you should remove the hump so you can remove all the paint, then repair the humps flange. Try to remove the bolts without breaking them. You can use a wire brush, heat and PB Blast the threaded ends of the bolts from underneath the floor. Then work the bolts back and forth to try to remove them. Its easier to remove them than drilling them out. I think I had 1 break, so I threaded it out from the bottom with vise grips. Then I ran a tap thru the threads. I patched my pass side hump flange with part of another hump I had. The drivers side I had to bend up and make a new flange area then scab in a sheet metal piece to fill in the larger hole.

View attachment 2906236

View attachment 2906237
How did you get the bend on the edge of the metal to look like the original?
 
Skreddy

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I didn't know they used caged nuts for the hump that @pjohnson mentioned. My 75 40 has weld nuts. I remember looking on McMaster Carr and i think they offer metric cage nuts when i was working on early aprons.
I used the cage nuts from McMaster on my 71 because a few had busted cages. Used 1 on the apron as well.
 
J

Jackson Hanes

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It’s also good form to post up on a thread you’ve started, acknowledging that you’re keeping up with the input. Sadly, not every who asks a question acknowledges the responses.

And as far as I can tell, you still haven’t indicated what year you are working with.🤷🏻
I always read responses that I get when I ask question, and appreciate everyone who spends time responding.

Note: I'm working on a 1976 fj40, If someone tells me how to make a signature line I don't have a problem doing so.
 

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