How easy is it to fix a Transmission Cover? (1 Viewer)

[Jackson Hanes]

I'm just grinding on the inside removing rust still.........
Anyways, I just noticed this rusted out spot. How easy would this be to fix for a complete newbie to metalwork.

 

[Jackson Hanes]

Or where would I be able to possibly buy one?

 

[65swb45]

It would help you get an answer regarding a replacement to know what year you are working with.

A lot of people create a signature line and put their rig info in it. It’s easier than remembering every time you post a question.

 

[Jackson Hanes]

It would help you get an answer regarding a replacement to know what year you are working with.

A lot of people create a signature line and put their rig info in it. It’s easier than remembering every time you post a question.

What do you mean by a signature line?

 

[brian]

Turn your phone sideways

 

[Pura Vida]

@Jackson Hanes

 

[Steamer]

If you decide to repair it, I would remove it so you can clean and prep both sides with it out of the vehicle. With it removed you can also clean up the floorboard under the flange as it is most likely rusting under there. Cleaning the cover's bad spots down to bare metal will allow it to bond well to fiberglass or basic body filler.

 

[mtn biker]

With patience, a donor trans hump cover, patience, a welder, grinder and cut off wheel and more patience, not that hard to do. You just can't lay down a bead of weld but rather thousands of spot welds. Meet Uma and not the one you are thinking of - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/meet-uma-and-not-the-one-you-are-thinking-of.1210009/page-4 here is how i fixed mine

 

[DangerNoodle]

It doesn't look too bad at all. You should be able to bend up some patch panels that fit right up. I personally wouldn't spend the time, or the money to find another hump to harvest from. If you do go that route, just find a hunp that is in good condition.

 

[pb4ugo]

As other have said, you should remove the hump so you can remove all the paint, then repair the humps flange. Try to remove the bolts without breaking them. You can use a wire brush, heat and PB Blast the threaded ends of the bolts from underneath the floor. Then work the bolts back and forth to try to remove them. Its easier to remove them than drilling them out. I think I had 1 break, so I threaded it out from the bottom with vise grips. Then I ran a tap thru the threads. I patched my pass side hump flange with part of another hump I had. The drivers side I had to bend up and make a new flange area then scab in a sheet metal piece to fill in the larger hole.

 

[pjohnson]

PB Blast the threaded ends of the bolts from underneath the floor. Then work the bolts back and forth to try to remove them

@Jackson Hanes

The nuts on the underside are called captured nuts, meaning they are enclosed in a tiny metal cage. The cage will often break and the nut will spin. If that happens you can choose to cut the bolt head off, remove the nut/cage from the underside and replace with a nutsert and new bolt. On mine, I cut off and replaced all the captured nuts with nutserts.

 

[65swb45]

It’s also good form to post up on a thread you’ve started, acknowledging that you’re keeping up with the input. Sadly, not every who asks a question acknowledges the responses.

And as far as I can tell, you still haven’t indicated what year you are working with.

 

[pb4ugo]

I didn't know they used caged nuts for the hump that @pjohnson mentioned. My 75 40 has weld nuts. I remember looking on McMaster Carr and i think they offer metric cage nuts when i was working on early aprons.

 

[pjohnson]

@pb4ugo You got me thinking, maybe they were weld nuts (it's been a while). Same advice applies though if they break free.

 

[Jackson Hanes]

As other have said, you should remove the hump so you can remove all the paint, then repair the humps flange. Try to remove the bolts without breaking them. You can use a wire brush, heat and PB Blast the threaded ends of the bolts from underneath the floor. Then work the bolts back and forth to try to remove them. Its easier to remove them than drilling them out. I think I had 1 break, so I threaded it out from the bottom with vise grips. Then I ran a tap thru the threads. I patched my pass side hump flange with part of another hump I had. The drivers side I had to bend up and make a new flange area then scab in a sheet metal piece to fill in the larger hole.

View attachment 2906236

View attachment 2906237

How did you get the bend on the edge of the metal to look like the original?

 

[mrboatman]

My 69 ( May of 68 Manufacture date ) has the caged nuts on the trans hump

 

[Skreddy]

I didn't know they used caged nuts for the hump that @pjohnson mentioned. My 75 40 has weld nuts. I remember looking on McMaster Carr and i think they offer metric cage nuts when i was working on early aprons.

I used the cage nuts from McMaster on my 71 because a few had busted cages. Used 1 on the apron as well.

 

[Jackson Hanes]

It’s also good form to post up on a thread you’ve started, acknowledging that you’re keeping up with the input. Sadly, not every who asks a question acknowledges the responses.

And as far as I can tell, you still haven’t indicated what year you are working with.

I always read responses that I get when I ask question, and appreciate everyone who spends time responding.

Note: I'm working on a 1976 fj40, If someone tells me how to make a signature line I don't have a problem doing so.

 

[Pura Vida]

I always read responses that I get when I ask question, and appreciate everyone who spends time responding.

Note: I'm working on a 1976 fj40, If someone tells me how to make a signature line I don't have a problem doing so.

 

[pb4ugo]

Below that. you can hit account upgrades and buy a silver star get a few upgrades and lose the pop ups.