Build Another 80 series build thread. The 'BlackHole'

[mervo]

Hey all,

I've been searching for an 80 series for quite some time, and a few weeks ago, (3 to be exact), found one that was the right price, and condition for me. 1995 80 series, 196k, locked.

The goal of this rig is to create a worthy family over-landing vehicle. Colorado trails, camping, fishing, hunting, climbing, etc. are all a part of our lifestyle. Our current 1995 22re, and Highlander, aren't up to the challenge of the areas we've been finding ourselves lately.

On with it. I'll post pics of the good and the bad. Part of this journey is that we're building a 2 car garage where I can tinker with this rig as it is not my daily driver.

Day 1- "The Good"

Interior-

Where the magic happens.

 

[mervo]

The bad:

Fenders will be coming off so not a big deal.

I'll be tackling the small amounts of body work myself (what do I have to lose?)

Still trying to find out what OEM window part this is? Don't have the FSM yet, but it'll happen this week for sure.

This annoys me just bc. The PO apparently had a few people interested in Toyota emblems. Cover over the hatch key slot gone, (found replacement at junk yard and installed) Land Cruiser was cracked (its since fallen off) and sombrero is cracked in half, (now removed).

 

[GW Nugget]

Welcome.
Don't worry, just go 37s.

 

[musthave]

Welcome, looks like an awesome find, congratulations. Looks like you're ready to head for the mountains. No, seriously, head for the mountains.

 

[Qball]

Welcome.
Don't worry, just go 37s.

I didn't believe that at first but now I agree, just go to 37s! LOL

 

[ranma21]

Still trying to find out what OEM window part this is? Don't have the FSM yet, but it'll happen this week for sure.

This annoys me just bc. The PO apparently had a few people interested in Toyota emblems. Cover over the hatch key slot gone, (found replacement at junk yard and installed) Land Cruiser was cracked (since falled off) and sombrero is cracked in half, (now removed).

Congrat and welcome to the addiction!! =)

You are looking at the window belt molding that deteriorate over time. I do carry the window belt molding set and the rear "Landcruiser" name plate with great discount if you need them. =)

Genuine Toyota 80 Series Cruiser Window Belt Molding Set

 

[mervo]

I will most definitely be ordering. Thanks for the insight.

I tell ya, this forum is outstanding!

• I had a P0401 code, found the answer, fixed.
• Installed a OEM CDL switch and had a problem with it engaging due to CDL activation switch on the transfer case, installed, fixed problem.
• Wasn't sure if removing the window rain guard trim was a good idea, it was, and again, thanks to a MUD thread.

I feel like this site has already save me over 1k in shop fees!

 

[mervo]

Window trim removed and why it was a good thing for my rig.

Running boards outta here!

Scan Guage II installed- again, thanks to ideas from a MUD thread.

CDL switch replaced with the $22 version as opposed to the dealer $60 part, Thanks again MUD.

 

[mervo]

And the reason why I'm looking forward to spending the time building a capable rig.

To do more of this with this crew.

Old Flowers Road that connects Pingree Park, to Stove Prairie road, Northern Colorado.

 

[mervo]

I'm seriously having this internal conflict with myself.

Although I hadn't really considered anything over 35's, that's not to say I wouldn't.

 

[GW Nugget]

No, really 80s are amazing rigs, 35s if for family camping stuff, 37s if you are going to wheel it in rocks etc... I have 35s wanting 37s now. Just spend some time here getting educated before you spend the money, looks like you are on a good start. Sometimes it's tricky figuring out how to post pics. If you can do that you can do it all.
Welcome again. Just PM me if you have any Qs. If I don't know I can point you in the right direction.

 

[ranma21]

I'm seriously having this internal conflict with myself.

Although I hadn't really considered anything over 35's, that's not to say I wouldn't.

It depends what you like to do. I have been wheeling in quite a few trails in CO and I find my setup is very capable of what I do with 33" and OME 2 inches lift with slider and rarely need to engage e-locker. Trails I have been to are Taylor Pass, Pearl Pass, Imogene Pass, Black Bear Pass, schofield pass just to name a few, never have any problem getting stuck or need help.

However, I think 35 looks better!! =) I would advise you to regear for 35 otherwise you will see lots of power loss especially cruising in higher altitude in CO. I have been thinking to regear even with 33".

 

[mervo]

Well, found myself with a little spare time today and decided to tackle one of the "small" projects that have been irking me since I bought the rig, the driver's side inability to lock. It would unlock, but not lock.

Now, due to my inability to understand anything electrical I had no idea where to start. So I made the usual rounds at the MUD, and also on youtube.

I figured texasknowhow's vid on fixing his locks would give me the solution I was looking for..... wrong.

Long story short, once I removed the window controls I noticed it sounded like a baby rattle.....hmm.... might as while fix that while I'm at it. Little did I realize that the rattle was the problem.

I made a few vids about it, here's what I found. Hope this helps someone else with a similar problem.

 

[mervo]

Also discovered another issue....leaking above the driver's side and passenger side in the pillars. I guess this explains why the passenger seat is so badly cracked (PO never fixed).

My first thought is sunroof drains? Any other thoughts?

sigh......I'm going to go have a gin and tonic and rewatch one of @jcardona1 youtube videos, they seem to keep me motivated.

 

[mervo]

Well, snaked the sunroof drains in the hopes that would solve my leak problem, no dice.

While I didn't see any water on the passenger or driver seat, when I picked up my weather-tech mats, sure enough moisture. I'm thinking kinked or broken sunroof drain line. I'll be investigating more on Sunday after reading a few threads.

Tonight I installed some new lights, while I've seen many similar pics on the MUD of Pfran lights, they rarely do the LED output justice. "This is my pic, there are many like it, but this one is mine. I must master it as I master my life." (sorry flashback)

Another interesting discovery, when I was installing the LED door light on the passenger side not only was it not hooked up, BUT I can't even find the plug or wire???? Anyone have any idea why it would have been disconnected by the PO? All of the other door lights, and dome lights were installed with no issues (other than blowing a fuse which was easily replaced)

Thanks for all those that have PM'd me thoughts and their fixes, you have been extremely insightful.

Brighter than the SUN!!!!

 

[mervo]

Thanks to @JerseyCruiser 's thread found here, Sunroof Drain Fix , I hope to have fixed the front drains. (I owe that guy a beer, his thread was a lifesaver)

I started by pulling the kick panels of the passenger side, locating the sunroof drain tube and pulled it into the cab. Then I snaked the drains making sure that the wire came out the bottom of the drain.(see pic 1)

Once satisfied that the dirt and grime was clear I began the arduous task of fishing the tube (see Jersey Cruiser's link for tube size, as I used exactly what he said) from the drain plug underneath up through the rocker panel and into the cab. I did use a small 1/8 inch stiff water tube (same one that hooks to your ice maker) as a guide, then applied copious amounts of Dawn soap as lubrication (this is was next to impossible without lubing the tube)

Next I primed and cemented both tubes and inserted the new tube into the factory drain tube. After 15 minutes of drying I pulled them both back into the rocker panel and pulled the new tube through the drain plug, cut the excess tube off, and then replaced drain plug after making a "t" cut in the plug and pushed the new tube through.

Drivers side was repeated with the same process.

Now if there are any leaks I have at least eliminated this as a possibility.

Pic 1- wire going in the sunroof drain and out the tube that drains into the rocker panel (if your rocker drains are clogged)

Pic 2- This is the actual distance from the drain plug to the factory drain tube, not very far. 2" ? 3 at most.

If you look close you can see the new tube inside the panel. White tube is the guide tube, clear tube inside rocker panel is the new drain extension.

New drain extension.

It works PERFECTLY!!!

 

[rc51kid]

you are off to a good start. The sun roof drains are a big issue. But also look into sealing around the windshield with the liquid nail roof flashing. This is well documented on here as well. Also i found water was following in a screw that held on the rear top of the fender. When you open the door you can see a screw head near the base of the A pillar. I backed this one out and put some FIPG on it to help seal it up.

35s do look nice. But i have done some pretty good stuff with my 33s, lockers, armor and still never needed my winch to get myself out. I have used the winch for other people but not myself, yet.

 

[mervo]

Thanks for the heads-up rc51kid. If this didn't solve my issue, (knowing my luck it didn't) I'll look into sealing the window seal with LNRF. Or maybe I'll just do it anyway, better safe then sorry. And I'll definitely be taking care of that screw just to be sure.

And at this point 33s with OME lift, and armor, is the current plan. I really don't want to have to consider re-gearing until I have to, or loads and weight, necessitate doing so.

 

[rc51kid]

I dont know if the screw really mattered. It might have been the windshield above it leaking. But it cant hurt. just back it out and put some FIPG on it.

 

[namsag]

Very nice sir I am not generally a fan of black vehicles but your Cruiser looks very sharp!