Holley Sniper 2 barrel conversion

[Fj moneypit]

Since I’m gathering parts anyone have an idea on the amount of fuel line you used? I’m looking at 20’. Is that enough? More than enough?

 

[thecrazygreek]

20 feet of line works.
Unless you have an aux tank in the rear...

 

[AlaskanWheeler]

I'm curious as to how well this adapter will work with the Sniper system. Being as I currently have said adapter in my possession... perhaps @Downey can provide the insite as it's his adapter.
Thanks

 

[thecrazygreek]

I'm curious as to how well this adapter will work with the Sniper system. Being as I currently have said adapter in my possession... perhaps @Downey can provide the insite as it's his adapter.
Thanks

It wont work.

They have a completely different bolt pattern...

 

[GA Architect]

My question about the adapter & OEM base base insulator (post #176) was/is because of the thickness of these adapter plates:

Downey Plate? (use the OEM carb base insulator?)

Downey adapter: (use the carb base insulator)

Redline adapter: (doesn't use the base insulator?)

Mosley's adapter: (self exploratory)

The Land Cruiser Shop's adapter: (self explanatory)

Based on the findings, the use of the OEM carb base insulator is determined by the adapter that one chooses to use?

 

[thecrazygreek]

Yes, you are correct...

But if you choose to go with just an adapter bolted straight to the intake manifold, then you will need to modify the adapter plate by grinding off a small portion (SEE PIC). I also found that without using a spacer you WILL have clearance issues with fuel lines, throttle linkage. and heat from the exhaust manifold.

You can see why the custom options all include some sort of spacer.

 

[FJ60Cam]

Based on the findings, the use of the OEM carb base insulator is determined by the adapter that one chooses to use?

Correct!

 

[thecrazygreek]

I did some creative thinking last night on what to use for an air cleaner adapter.
I tried making my own, but became flustered, it was going to be abs which is something I wanted to stay away from anyway, and I don't want to fork over big $$ just to have my stock air-cleaner.

So I started looking around my shop for anything that might work... Then I spotted an old aluminum redline Weber carb adapter designed to mount to the top of a Weber carb, and allow the stock aircleaner to work.

I grabbed it and started mocking it up, and to my f'n surprise it works!

I still need to paint it black (its cruddy looking now) but it works if you ad a gasket to the bottom end so you can get a seal between it and the top of the throttle body. I may even locate an aircleaner base plate and have that ad an extra surface to seal against. I also like the way it looks. Not just a smooth round object. (after paint it should really pop!)

It locates the aircleaner perfectly. So its, carb spacer, then adapter, then throttle body, then Weber adapter then aircleaner. This is on my 78 2F.

Here's a pic... And the best part they are about 40 bucks shipped from several retailers.
The part number is REDLINE 99010.743

 

[Fj moneypit]

I did some creative thinking last night on what to use for an air cleaner adapter.
I tried making my own, but became flustered, it was going to be abs which is something I wanted to stay away from anyway, and I don't want to fork over big $$ just to have my stock air-cleaner.

So I started looking around my shop for anything that might work... Then I spotted an old aluminum redline Weber carb adapter designed to mount to the top of a Weber carb, and allow the stock aircleaner to work.

I grabbed it and started mocking it up, and to my f'n surprise it works!

I still need to paint it black (its cruddy looking now) but it works if you ad a gasket to the bottom end so you can get a seal between it and the top of the throttle body. I may even locate an aircleaner base plate and have that ad an extra surface to seal against. I also like the way it looks. Not just a smooth round object. (after paint it should really pop!)

It locates the aircleaner perfectly. So its, carb spacer, then adapter, then throttle body, then Weber adapter then aircleaner. This is on my 78 2F.

Here's a pic... And the best part they are about 40 bucks shipped from several retailers.
The part number is REDLINE 99010.743

View attachment 2133383

Just curious a out the bolts on the top of adapter. What do they bolt to? Don’t think there are holes on the sniper for them? Wonder if this adapter will work on earlier 2F setup?

 

[thecrazygreek]

Just curious a out the bolts on the top of adapter. What do they bolt to?

The bolts are there to seal up the 4 holes. I ran a 8mm tap into them and added the bolts. Otherwise air would sneak through them. Also for looks.

 

[RLMS]

My question about the adapter & OEM base base insulator (post #176) was/is because of the thickness of these adapter plates:

Downey Plate? (use the OEM carb base insulator?)
View attachment 2133297

Downey adapter: (use the carb base insulator)
View attachment 2133298

Redline adapter: (doesn't use the base insulator?)
View attachment 2133300

Mosley's adapter: (self exploratory)
View attachment 2133301

The Land Cruiser Shop's adapter: (self explanatory)
View attachment 2133306

Based on the findings, the use of the OEM carb base insulator is determined by the adapter that one chooses to use?

.

We decided not to design our adapter to be used with the insulator. Reason being that we were anticipating the same overall adapter to be used for the F and 2F. Also the inner flow design atomizes the fuel better with out any inner diameter step changes or shelf's. Also eliminates 2 extra area's of a gasket leak (Vacuum leak) , One being the mating gasket between the adapter and insulator and the side vac port. We have noticed that the vacuum cap plugs last 6 months before they start cracking.

Justin

 

[Steamer]

My question about the adapter & OEM base base insulator (post #176) was/is because of the thickness of these adapter plates:

My biggest concern when selecting my setup, was heat getting to the Sniper. What I liked most about the Redline adapter was it’s 2” height. It gives nice clearance between the head and the larger Sniper base flange, (no grinding) and gets the Sniper further away from the heat source. The extra distance gave me plenty of room to install a homemade heat shield. I didn’t want to omit an insulator, so I used a ½” Holley patterned one between the Sniper and the adapter. My stock air cleaner is long gone so getting the Sniper higher worked fine with a simple aftermarket cleaner. I see Redline makes and adapter for the stock air cleaner that supposed to work with their base adapter. Probably wouldn’t work if adding an insulator.

 

[Steamer]

(you posted while I was typing mine above)

Also the inner flow design atomizes the fuel better with out any inner diameter step changes or shelf's.

That was a consideration when adding the insulator but didn't know how much it would affect it. Maybe I was over concerned about the heat but decided to play it safe. I guess time will tell. I can always pull it out.

 

[RLMS]

My biggest concern when selecting my setup, was heat getting to the Sniper. What I liked most about the Redline adapter was it’s 2” height. It gives nice clearance between the head and the larger Sniper base flange, (no grinding) and gets the Sniper further away from the heat source. The extra distance gave me plenty of room to install a homemade heat shield. I didn’t want to omit an insulator, so I used a ½” Holley patterned one between the Sniper and the adapter. My stock air cleaner is long gone so getting the Sniper higher worked fine with a simple aftermarket cleaner. I see Redline makes and adapter for the stock air cleaner that supposed to work with their base adapter. Probably wouldn’t work if adding an insulator.

View attachment 2133644

View attachment 2133661

View attachment 2133675

Thanks Steamer !

You are correct on our air cleaner adapter. It was designed with our manifold adapter. So raising the sniper like you did would not allow our air-cleaner adapter to work with the intended 2F air cleaner. We did do some testing and found out that using a factory air cleaner, and air tube will drop the internal cyl temps by 40 degrees!

Justin

 

[RLMS]

(you posted while I was typing mine above)



That was a consideration when adding the insulator but didn't know how much it would affect it. Maybe I was over concerned about the heat but decided to play it safe. I guess time will tell. I can always pull it out.

You are correct about worrying about the heat. No question that heat is and always be an issue with any engine bay situation. We solve the issue by wrapping the coated headers with the titanium wrap. It lowers the engine bay heat by 70 degrees. That a ton of heat. Headers should be used anyway with a sniper install, no question. I also like to keep the late model 40's carb cooler. Using the factory cooler with a manifold temp sender to run it. I blows the hot heat back. At least It makes me feel like it does something...LOL
For carb cruisers we use the factory insulator. That's a must. Vapor lock on a hot carb has always been an issue. Mr. T decided that was must a long time ago!

Justin

 

[GA Architect]

.............Headers should be used anyway with a sniper install, no question.

Could you elaborate on why headers should be used with the Sniper install?

 

[Downey]

And could you elaborate on why you would suggest Headers should be wrapped ??? When Headers are wrapped with insulation the held-in heat cracks the Header tubes, and they literally melt away- - -very long history of this.

 

[RLMS]

Could you elaborate on why headers should be used with the Sniper install?

Absolutely! Just with headers, so they say a increase of flow out of the engine, this is a debate that will last forever. I know that. From my experience to say a actual wheel or engine dyno, more flow means more power/tq. The stock manifolds create more back-pressure. Better for low end tq. But worse for top end and also for throttle response. My butt says headers even with out EFI feels way better than a manifold. SOR says the following
"SOR Silver Ceramic Coated Headers was a maximum increase of 16.6% in horsepower and 7.9% in torque. "

So basic theory is More flow of fuel and air in you will need to maximize flow out. That maximizes your efi performance. Plus if every header tube was the exact same length that equalizes each cylinders pressure. Making a smoother throttle response. I will tell you that on my old hill climb race car we had 180* crossover headers, same thing as above. Each tube was the same length. It felt so much better than "long tube" headers.

Just remember we are talking about Toyota in-line 6's here...not v8's and so forth. No reason to have this discussion expand away from it's roots!

 

[AlaskanWheeler]

@RLMS, you ought consider building a header (tri-y, hint hint...) worthy of puting on these old Toyotas...just saying...

 

[GA Architect]

Bummer.....I don't have a set of headers, and there is not a source of good headers to be obtained.


Maybe I'll just stick to the OEM stuff that currently occupies the top of my 2F's intake manifold.