Highest Quality Radiator

[80t0ylc]

My 94 ran the original factory radiator day in and day out, and it lasted 26 years before it was replaced all thanks to good maintenance

When it came time to buy it's replacement i though why try and reinvent the wheel, so i went with a brand new factory Toyota radiator

I live in Arizona where the day time temps this summer have been over 110 degrees, my Factory Toyota radiator sees temps of 190 degrees with the AC on

Like your sig says, "all stock" - a stock radiator will do the job, well. The 80 being one of the best built rigs and overbuilt in many areas for that matter. The '94's cooling system is not one of them, though. Just beware, mods that add weight, like armor or more stress to the drive train, such as larger tires and you'll need to upgrade the cooling system. Going to an aluminum radiator from the stock copper/brass ('93 & '94) is one of the best things you can do. Aluminum kicks copper/brass's butt when it comes to heat transfer.

 

[Hornd]

I'll just note about the recommended Koyo Rad: I bought one in 2016, after my water by-pass barb broke on the then 19 year old OEM unit. Eight years later (in 2022), I discovered the plastic of the main upper hose barb on the Koyo cracked & crumbled (see photo). I was very surprised by this as I, and many others, had very good results using Koyorads in another coolings-system-sensitive autos, the 2nd gen Acura Legend. In hindsight, the Koyo rads produced for the Legend were from Malaysia and the Land Cruiser Koyo's are from China. While some may say that 8 years from a radiator is acceptable, the Toyota OEM radiator would disagree. Take that for what you will.

If Guessing - I would say the Same Force that Broke off that Radiator Hose cracked the Mounting Tab as well.
We will likely never know if that Force was from Shipping or Similar.

Marks on Bottom of Hose show a Worm Gear Hose Clamps was Applied.
This is Different than the OEM Constant Tension Hose Clamp.

 

[Hornd]

I had a TYC do the same thing in my 80. I swapped to a Copper/Brass CSF for the earlier models and the only issue I had was long hill climbs towing in 100 deg plus ambient temps. I run a Koyorad in my 100 but she pretty well stays on the pavement, experiences less vibration and will get a radiator swap as PM every 5 years until I save enough for a RD.

Bottom line is the plastic tank TYC and Koyorads should be replaced every 5 years. After that and the Thermoplastic crosslink bonds are starting to deteriorate from constant heat cycles.

The Land Cruiser was designed with a 25 year anticipated Life.
This Truck has Original Radiator from 1996 in 2023.

What is the Data that Changed Lifespan to 5 Years or Did you own a Jeep?

 

[deltapine1]

The Land Cruiser was designed with a 25 year anticipated Life.
This Truck has Original Radiator from 1996 in 2023.

What is the Data that Changed Lifespan to 5 Years or Did you own a Jeep?

I personally will replace the Koyorad in my Hundy every 5 years. They are cheap and it is far less trouble than trying to limp out of Big Bend with a compromised radiator. The foam gasket between the plastic tank and aluminum core can start to weap in as little as 5 years and the plastic tanks do not seem to hold up to heat cycling as long as the OEM factory installed radiator int he 100 series.

That statement was in reference to my 100s radiator which I replaced in 2019 with a Koyo HD 2282. It is on my list of things to swap this Winter as PM.

 

[veiloctane]

nothing wrong with denso radiator and you can get it rockauto More Information for DENSO 2219362 - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7401848&cc=0&pt=2172&jsn=275

 

[Dusten]

How is everyone breaking the plastic nipple?

 

[baldilocks]

How is everyone breaking the plastic nipple?

In one word; carelessness which translates to design flaw in many minds. I broke one while torquing the crank bolt.

 

[Dusten]

In one word; carelessness which translates to design flaw in many minds. I broke one while torquing the crank bolt.

Ok. That's what I assumed.

 

[CharlieS]

In one word; carelessness which translates to design flaw in many minds. I broke one while torquing the crank bolt.

Removing the alternator.

I guess you could call it carelessness.

I personally don't think it is a great design to put that long unsupported plastic nipple and hose in an area regularly accessed during maintenance and repair.

The Solve Function nipple guard is protecting the nipple on my new koyorad.

 

[Dusten]

Removing the alternator.

I guess you could call it carelessness.

I personally don't think it is a great design to put that long unsupported plastic nipple and hose in an area regularly accessed during maintenance and repair.

The Solve Function nipple guard is protecting the nipple on my new koyorad.

Boy, don't go into aviation

 

[Hornd]

It's a Horrible Design to put something so Fragile right over the top of the Engine.
It carries the same sort of Panic as Breaking a Bolt off.

Mines Tapped and JB Welded and been Fine Since, but it's Real Embarrassing if your Doing Cars & Coffee.
Like a Face Pimple on a Super Model.

I added the Nipple Protector now.

 

[CharlieS]

Boy, don't go into aviation

Thanks for the advice. I'll stay out of aviation and stick to land cruiser 80 tech.

 

[Hornd]

In one word; carelessness which translates to design flaw in many minds. I broke one while torquing the crank bolt.

Imagine having a Repair Shop and you Snap the Nipple on Radiator.

Let the Negotiations begin.

Touching Any Vehicle is a Liability.

 

[Dusten]

Imagine having a Repair Shop and you Snap the Nipple on Radiator.

Let the Negotiations begin.

Touching Any Vehicle is a Liability.

You snap the nipple on a radiator still readily accessible. As a shop it's minor compared to some of the mistakes techs make.

But q good shop won't have a mechanic crawling in the engine. They're on a stand or dolly.

 

[Marco Lau]

How is everyone breaking the plastic nipple?

I broke the plastic nipple while using the newer style radiator as a trail fix and i don't even have a 1FZ-FE.

 

[baldilocks]

Boy, don't go into aviation

Right!

 

[baldilocks]

Imagine having a Repair Shop and you Snap the Nipple on Radiator.

Let the Negotiations begin.

Touching Any Vehicle is a Liability.

Yep, and so is rising from bed.

 

[PIP]

The plastic nipples are a 1 banana job to replace with an 1/8" npt brass hose barb. Interesting to hear of folks replacing the entire radiator instead of a 5 minute $3 repair.

 

[Gascan]

If Guessing - I would say the Same Force that Broke off that Radiator Hose cracked the Mounting Tab as well.
We will likely never know if that Force was from Shipping or Similar.

Marks on Bottom of Hose show a Worm Gear Hose Clamps was Applied.
This is Different than the OEM Constant Tension Hose Clamp.

View attachment 3419397

No need to guess. The fan shroud mounting tabs were cracked by some ding-dong who worked on my Cruiser when it was owned by the original owner; unrelated to the radiator. I was fortunate enough to learn (second hand) about the fragility of radiator mounted fan shrouds on the 2nd gen Acura Legends, which had similar mounting tabs; you never over torque them. As I stated before, the Koyorad plastic had become uncharacteristicly crumbly, it wasn't a sudden force that broke it off.

Now about the worm gear hose clamp... we can discuss the pros & cons of them and why the cheaper & quicker to install spring clams are used by mass-production automakers across the globe (hint: they work and they're cheaper) till the beer gets warm, but just like the general consensus of "it's bad to use ratchet straps to tie down kayaks because you'll crush them" both work quite well as long as you put too many ugga duggas on them. For apples to apples comparison, I used worm gear clamps on the aforementioned Acura Legend equipped Koyorad for far longer than the one on my cruiser; never had an issue.

 

[Hornd]

No need to guess. The fan shroud mounting tabs were cracked by some ding-dong who worked on my Cruiser when it was owned by the original owner; unrelated to the radiator. I was fortunate enough to learn (second hand) about the fragility of radiator mounted fan shrouds on the 2nd gen Acura Legends, which had similar mounting tabs; you never over torque them. As I stated before, the Koyorad plastic had become uncharacteristicly crumbly, it wasn't a sudden force that broke it off.

Now about the worm gear hose clamp... we can discuss the pros & cons of them and why the cheaper & quicker to install spring clams are used by mass-production automakers across the globe (hint: they work and they're cheaper) till the beer gets warm, but just like the general consensus of "it's bad to use ratchet straps to tie down kayaks because you'll crush them" both work quite well as long as you put too many ugga duggas on them. For apples to apples comparison, I used worm gear clamps on the aforementioned Acura Legend equipped Koyorad for far longer than the one on my cruiser; never had an issue.

My Canoe is Strapped down with Ratchet Straps everytime I go.

Seen lot of Worm Gear Clamps over tightened.
I think mine will get Kubota Clamps which are Quite Proven as well and I have them Handy.

Toyota never uses Junk so if you Emulate them your Typically Safest.

The Breeze Constant Torque are another Option and what I used on my PHH as they were Said to be the Best.

It's the Same Debate as Rubber Coolant Hoses as Opposed to Silicone.