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Ron Davis Radiator. I ordered one last month. Was at my door in less than a week. Expensive but is likely the highest quality radiator available for our 80s. 102 deg F towing my M100 w/ TJM tent up long grades no longer edges the temp gauge upward (I have modified the temp gauge).
I have a CSF radiator that a previous owner installed. I've owned my 80 for 12 years now and I've never had an issue with it. I barely ever see coolant temps get to 200 degrees ( reading off my scangauge). I run an unopened blue fan clutch.
Highest coolant temp I have seen was 217 and that was while driving up a long hill leaving Las Vegas heading towards Death Valley. Normal driving where I live in Alabama I might see 195 degrees at most in the summer.
Highest coolant temp I have seen was 217 and that was while driving up a long hill leaving Las Vegas heading towards Death Valley. Normal driving where I live in Alabama I might see 195 degrees at most in the summer.
102F towing the trailer? Lol. I do 186-202 everyday. 102f are engine warming up numbers. I'd say 102f either a Typo or you're full of
. Cheers
102 F ambient outside temp.102F towing the trailer? Lol. I do 186-202 everyday. 102f are engine warming up numbers. I'd say 102f either a Typo or you're full of
I too am running an unmodified Blue Fan Clutch and was running a two year old CSF Copper/Brass. The only time I had temps over 200 on the Scangauge was towing on long grades. The Copper/Brass and Alum/Plastic aftermarkets (I have run both) just won't shed heat quick enough when towing in 100 plus degree F temps. I would have to back out of the throttle and drop below 65 mph to get the temp to drop. Now with the RD on a 102 deg F day with trailer up the same hill I have run a thousand times and SG showed 190 deg F and I maintained 75 mph. Expensive but heat is the enemy of any machinery or equipment.
On another note I have noticed my Aux fan which is wired into the factory wiring is not cycling as much when I am idling in traffic with the AC on. It used to basically stay on during 100 plus degree temps.
I should have put a temp gauge under the bonnet and taken temps in the engine bay before and after to see if it's cooler under there at idle.
Do you mind throwing some details here about your cost, install, etc on the Ron Davis? Their website didn't show factory drop in part (I didn't bother calling them). Did it have integrated AT cooler? Or you plumed in a separate cooler for that?
Gascan
All chaps, no jeans.
I'll just note about the recommended Koyo Rad: I bought one in 2016, after my water by-pass barb broke on the then 19 year old OEM unit. Eight years later (in 2022), I discovered the plastic of the main upper hose barb on the Koyo cracked & crumbled (see photo). I was very surprised by this as I, and many others, had very good results using Koyorads in another coolings-system-sensitive autos, the 2nd gen Acura Legend. In hindsight, the Koyo rads produced for the Legend were from Malaysia and the Land Cruiser Koyo's are from China. While some may say that 8 years from a radiator is acceptable, the Toyota OEM radiator would disagree. Take that for what you will.
for aftermarket options koyorad, tyc or denso. ive had good luck with those brands in other applications and dont see why they wouldnt be a good option for an 80.
Replacement radiator with integrated AT cooler M14 x 1.0 Male Flare connectors on the bottom tank. Alicia at Ron Davis is very helpful - item @ 1-4516406 (Toyota Landcruiser FZJ80 / Lexus Lx 450 1993-1997) $1,469.00 including freight.
It fit the factory mounts and shroud flawlessly.
I had a TYC do the same thing in my 80. I swapped to a Copper/Brass CSF for the earlier models and the only issue I had was long hill climbs towing in 100 deg plus ambient temps. I run a Koyorad in my 100 but she pretty well stays on the pavement, experiences less vibration and will get a radiator swap as PM every 5 years until I save enough for a RD.
Bottom line is the plastic tank TYC and Koyorads should be replaced every 5 years. After that and the Thermoplastic crosslink bonds are starting to deteriorate from constant heat cycles.
I went thru 4 diff. radiator in 8 yrs of ownership. OEM blew @ 220K. replaced with CSF, nothing but overheating issues on highway, threw in dumpster after 2 months, replaced with Ron Davis, been flawless for 3 yrs until my fan shroud broke and took out my RD, replaced with cheap chinese/ebay alum. 4 row, returned it upon after received, did not fit. Found a Liland unit, been really happy with it and cools every bit as cool as my RD. The fit and finish is no Ron Davis, but for 1/4th of the price of a RD, its a no brainer.
Do you recall which part # you used? There are three on rockauto - a 2 row, a 3 row, and an unknown one. Leaning 2 row.
can't recall the part number, but it is definitely a 2 row unit with built-in AT cooler.
Yeah, I went with TYC as well and as others have noted, the cooling performance is top notch. It definitely seems cheaper though, and I will not just let it go 14+ years like the original did (it may have been original to the truck and 23 years old, but I can't confirm that). If I want to let the TYC go for five years, I will read reviews when the time comes to see if quality is still acceptable or maybe go with one of the high end metal options. I don't think I will go back to OEM for this part since I really enjoy the extra cooling capacity of the TYC.
Photos from the recent install showing quality of welds, mounts and general fit.
Oddly enough while studying these pics I took I just noticed there is some lettering between the Veins in the Fan Clutch. I can make out a "B" and a "K."
Oddly enough while studying these pics I took I just noticed there is some lettering between the Veins in the Fan Clutch. I can make out a "B" and a "K."
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One more. The battery hold down is not touching the radiator even though it appears to be.
My TYC just arrived today. That was quick! Looks like I have a project for tomorrow.
Azca
If there is a harder way - I will find it...
Tools R Us turned me onto the TYC for better cooling before he left us. I don't have a ton of miles but will say it outperformed the CSF and old OEM unit. Don't like the plastic top and will look at the Leiland next go around. Will say that here in Phoenix, you need all the cooling help you can get, especially lately. 30 days of 110 plus heat strait...
My 94 ran the original factory radiator day in and day out, and it lasted 26 years before it was replaced all thanks to good maintenance
When it came time to buy it's replacement i though why try and reinvent the wheel, so i went with a brand new factory Toyota radiator
I live in Arizona where the day time temps this summer have been over 110 degrees, my Factory Toyota radiator sees temps of 190 degrees with the AC on
When it came time to buy it's replacement i though why try and reinvent the wheel, so i went with a brand new factory Toyota radiator
I live in Arizona where the day time temps this summer have been over 110 degrees, my Factory Toyota radiator sees temps of 190 degrees with the AC on
