Builds Here we go (FJ-40 getting a 3B/Turbo/H55f)...

[DanS HJ-45]

Since it was easy and accessible, I figured it would be a good idea to check the 5th gear engagement. I cut a couple bits of PVC pipe so that I could bolt the 5th gear housing onto the back of the transmission, then it shifted the way it should (without that, when you shift into fifth the housing gets pushed away from the transmission).


Any gear other than 5th...


And 5th gear engaged.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

I can't tell if the 5th gear is worn, or if this is machined. It's not shiny looking, but the collar absolutely hits these "notches." Bending the shift fork won't let the collar slide any farther back, because of these "notches."

It also doesn't slide over the larger diameter splines, so I need to do some more research. It's either very, very worn, or hardly worn at all. Anyone know which it is?


My camera battery then died, so cell phone pics will have to do...

I got the T-case halves powder coated, so I just had to mock them up to store them.



The PTO cover plate had to be powder coated black, because somehow after the cleaning it just discolored somehow, kind of a dark grey color. And it wasn't going to match, it made more sense to make it obviously not match.

Got a replacement bearing ordered so that I can put the T-case back together, hopefully early next week.

That's it for now, I'm off to work tomorrow, but I'll be playing with a T-case and wiring harness next week to get it ready for the tub to come back from paint...

Dan

 

[crushers]

hummm, interesting, i don't remember seeing any shift collar blocks on the gears i had but that looks factory to me.

now i will have to take a close look next time i tear into a H55.

thanks for the pics.

 

[vwluv10338]

I know people say the 5 th gear pop out is from poor shift fork engagement. However, if I can remember back to my manual trans class it is the chamfer on the gear that helps keep the gears engaged. The gear tooth should have an old time coffin shape. At least that how we described them.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

So, I've had some time to play (well, a day and a half).

First up, because I was waiting on a bearing to come in, I got to cutting foam for the toolboxes. Shadowing is cool, but mostly this way the tools won't rattle around in the toolbox now.


I'll write up a more detailed bit later on this, but I got the T-case back together today, with the parking brake on the split case. We must have bought one of the last kits SOR had for this, but it was really a no-brainer, since we were rebuilding the T-case anyhow...

Here's the main difference, you can see how much longer the parking brake rear output shaft is.


And at the end of the night...


We also stopped by the paint shop today, and it would appear that the tub will be back from paint early next week. Which is lucky, because I happen to have next week off....

Dan

 

[crushers]

SCORE, looks very nice...

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Dan i notice you choose not to cad plate the parts that were originally cad plated -like the cap on the transfer that covers the end of the tranny input shaft. Is that because the cad plating doesn't last long (my experience) or???

 

[Combat Chuck]

I've forgotten to check in on this build in a while, you're making some massive progress, Dan!

I'll list myself among the suckers for the clear powdercoat on the aluminum, it looks great, but still has a bit of grit to it enough that it looks like a working machine, and not some blinged-out pavement-pounder.

Looking great!

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Dan i notice you choose not to cad plate the parts that were originally cad plated -like the cap on the transfer that covers the end of the tranny input shaft. Is that because the cad plating doesn't last long (my experience) or???

We can't actually cad plate anything, apparently it's an EPA thing. Closest we can get is yellow zinc, which isn't bad, but definitely wears off (especially with a power washer). Besides that, I can powdercoat for dirt cheap, and for a part like the cover over the output shaft it takes me about 45 minutes from dirty to done and ready to install. To plate stuff we've got to get a big enough job together, drive ut into town, wait a few days, etc... Powder coating in my shop also guarantees I won't lose it, or forget how it goes.

Dan

 

[TurboDiesel69]

I've had this thread open for 3 days.

Very inspiring. I bought a bj70 for $600 (even the tires were nice)
and will be dropping the engine and rear axle (parking break) into my 1980 BJ40!


It's going to be a great project!

 

[Awl_TEQ]

looks awesome Dan!

How about a nice shot of the whole chassis for my desktop background? You know, an inspirational type thing when I'm at work

 

[DanS HJ-45]

looks awesome Dan!

How about a nice shot of the whole chassis for my desktop background? You know, an inspirational type thing when I'm at work

Ask and you shall receive....


Also...

Dan

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Perfect, thank you!

 

[crushers]

looking SWEET.
congrats

 

[tmarx]

Looking good Dan !

Keep at it

 

[ColoCruiserJeff]

Dan-

Simply awesome!! I look forward to seeing it in Moab! Now, get back to work on it so you can actually get everything done!

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Dan-

Simply awesome!! I look forward to seeing it in Moab! Now, get back to work on it so you can actually get everything done!

Working on it!

I had half of the day today to play. Just doing some odds and ends, really.

First off, the PS gearbox came back from http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/index.html, so I powdercoated the pitman arm, and installed the whole thing for good.


Then I fought with the T-case 2WD/4WD shift rod boot for way too long, but I eventually got it. I also went ahead and attached the driveshafts. It looks much more complete with both the front and the rear driveshafts installed, I think.


But I don't want to get too far yet. I have an FSM that includes the H55f (and 38mm split case), but I've got some parts that I simply cannot figure out where they go. These were all inside the T-case when I took it apart, but I cannot, for the life of me see where they go. So I put the T-case back together like my FSM shows (without them), and figured I'd ask here where they go. The metal ring and the oil slinger both fit over the input or output shafts. The little plate and bolt don't seem to go anywhere. I find no holes for them, and they certainly aren't the ones that go with the speedometer drive hear (that one is in my FSM, and is in there).


So.... what are they, I assume I need them, but the T-case otherwise seems correct. All of the preloads are correct, and it spins like I expect a newly overhauled T-case to (not super buttery smooth, but not exactly grinding or anything).

Dan

 

[crushers]

are you sure those are part of the Tcase and do not get dropped in the box?
tabbed thrust washer - never seen that particular design in a tcase
steel washer - how thick?

bolt and locating tab - doesn't look familar.
<edit: Henry, had the answer below>

 

[waiting for time]

Thanks for the inspiration Dan, this is what I need to keep the project going.
Wish I had your skills and space.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

That little plate and bolt at the bottom right of the photo covers the top side breather opening on the inside of the transfer case - that's what it looks like anyhow.