Help with a LX450 oil leaking buy

[BlackMud]

Hello there,

I’m about to get a 97 LX450 in fair to good condition and the one thing that immediately took my attention was the engine oil leak. All four sides of the valve cover and engine have a thick layer of dried oil, the front axle, mid portion and a bit of the rear axle are sprayed in oil and during the 1 hour checking the car a small puddle of oil formed under the mid portion of the body which makes me think that the transmission and oil pan are covered in oil and therefore, leaks are coming from the rear seal, front seal, valve cover, oil pump cover and transmission.

I asked the owner about any engine problems in the history of the rig and it looks like nothing sinister had happened with it other than valve cover leaks. That seems to be a little obvious doesn’t it? By looking at the attached pics, could anyone shed some light about the leaks?

Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

 

[kenthemover]

My 94 land cruiser leaked in same places you talking about. And oil blew back by rear main seal and I thought same thing.
Take it down and spray engine bright on it when it's warm and pressure wash the @$!# out of it. You'll see leaks much better.

Good luck
Kenny

 

[flintknapper]

Typical spots to leak oil are Valve Cover Gasket (it definitely has that), Dizzy O-ring, Front Seal, Rear Seal, Oil Pump gasket, Upper Pan, and a few others.

That engine has not been cleaned in a long, long....time. The question is not how many places is it leaking, but how badly from each spot.

As already mentioned....only thoroughly cleaning the engine will reveal the answer. The Valve Cover gasket looks to be responsible for the bulk of it. Relatively easy fix.

 

[tominboise]

Clean it and start at the top and work down. I would replace the valve cover gasket and the dizzy o ring and then monitor. After that, the oil pump cover if needed.

 

[flintknapper]

Valve cover gasket for sure. You'll want to do the tube seals and change your spark plugs at the same time.

Personally, I'd get some OEM plug wires while I was at it. You are missing a fan belt and they really should be the 'matched' OEM belts anyway.

Knuckles look they might need some grease. Lots of 'base-lining' to do along with addressing the oil leaks.

Mine has oil leaks as well (not as bad as that) but still runs well at 312K miles.

 

[BILT4ME]

You need to do the following items, preferably in order:

A) Power wash off all areas of the engine. Start with spraying down with simple green (or equivalent) and let it soak.
B) Start gathering parts.
C) Plan ahead for some time to do the repairs. You can do this in stages.

1) Valve Cover Gasket
2) Spark Plug tube seals
3) PCV Valve
4) PCV Grommet
5) PCV Hose (with clamps)
6) Throttle Body Hose (VC to TB) (with clamps)
7) Distributor O-Ring
8) Throttle Body Gasket
9) Spark Plug Wires
10) Distributor Cap
11) Distributor Rotor
12) Oil Filler Cap

Do #1-12 all at one time. You can add a couple additional items at that time (While You're In There) such as the heater valve, the related coolant hoses on the firewall, and the throttle body coolant hose, refered to as "bypass Hose #1". Don't forget clamps!

Get all the above parts as OEM from Toyota Parts | Toyota Online Parts | Genuine Toyota Parts | Toyota Parts Online
1FZ-FE Engine Little Hose Kit Is also a 'Mud Member and supporter. Supplies OEM parts for great pricing!

Don't do aftermarket on any of it.

Next phase:
13) Front Main Seal
14) Oil Pump Cover Seal
15) Oil pump cover screws (OEM or Wits' End)
16) Upper and Lower Radiator hoses (with clamps)
17) Alternator Belts (OEM)
18) Air Conditioning Belts
19) Alternator belt Idler Pulley (If needed)
20) Radiator Cap (OEM Only) (Included with OEM Radiator)
21) Power Steering Hose, Low Pressure
22) Power Steering Hose, High Pressure
23) Transmission Cooler Hose, Pressure
24) Transmission Cooler Hose, Return
25) Radiator, OEM
26) Copper Washers for PS Pump Hose (2)

Do the same for items 13-26. These are grouped together because they are all a LOT easier to do when the radiator is out.

Your radiator is almost light tan, it's supposed to be black. That means you are on borrowed time before that radiator blows it's top. Literally. Common on these, best to do it before it's a catastrophic failure like mine was.

27+) Front axle rebuild Kit (Cruiser Outfitters) Cruiser Outfitters (@cruiseroutfit ) Kurt is a great guy and very helpful!

Again, do this in groups as time and money allow.

Do it in order of priority. I may consider doing everything above together, excluding the front axle. It took me about 2 full weekends to do all of that, with the truck shut down. I also did the front axle at the same time. Make sure you have ALL the parts on hand.

Wits' End has all OEM stuff you may need. He is a great guy and will help with additional info. (@NLXTACY )

 

[nukegoat]

Looks normal to me, run it

 

[BlackMud]

Thanks for the suggestions! Very helpful. I might start from top down as suggested. The plan is to throw a LS engine there in 2-3 years but it would be nice to have it running with no problems until then. Out of curiosity, is 5K a fair price for a rig with this engine, ripped driver seat and crack across the windshield? Special shout out to @BILT4ME for the list and links! Peace

 

[jpoole]

@BILT4ME did a great job of laying out items that you need to attend to. You can add to his list the other things that you notice while learning your truck and surfing this forum. Some non-engine related items to plan for are:

-flush the brake fluid
-change your diff lube
-change the trans. fluid
---I prefer the easier 1 gallon at a time approach but some flush of the whole trans system at once, read up on mud for more info.
-change the transfer case lube
-inspect and update brake pads (80s go through pads pretty quickly)

$5k may or may not be a good price. Is there rust? How's the paint/body? etc. How many miles on the truck? Does it run/drive well or is it worn out and in need of a lot? The seat covers and a windshield are relatively low cost items in comparison to others but it can all add up. If the truck needs attention across the board, has rust and is a cosmetic mess then $5k is way too much. If it's just a bit behind on maintenance but is rust free and has a great body/paint then $5k may be appropriate. Lockers also add $1k of value (or a touch more) so they factor in as well.

 

[rolliges]

No rust up front!

 

[skhochay]

all gaskets and seal need to be replaced, the worst if the head is cracked on 4th cylinder very typical

 

[1911garand]

MN anti-rust package - nice find!

 

[BILT4ME]

Good news is that the oil is the anti-rust option.......

 

[Funner]

If you want a healthy life, then just feed it oil and grease, check brakes, assess the cooling system. Repair what is broken. And never come back here, there is way more to be afraid of than what you have found so far.

 

[Rifleman]

the worst if the head is cracked on 4th cylinder very typical

Could you please expand on the head cracking on cylinder number 4 being very typical. The reason i ask, I've been an active member on this board for almost 5 years, and this is the first i've heard cylinder number 4 having a problem with cracking. Now problems with a head gasket failing, well yes that seeems to be a somewhat common problem with the 1FZ-FE engine. But the cylinder head cracking, I've not heard, or read were that's a common problem with the 1FZ-FE head at all. So please enlighten me with where you came by that information.

 

[DSRTRDR]

Good news is that the oil is the anti-rust option.......

/this\

If you want a healthy life, then just feed it oil and grease, check brakes, assess the cooling system. Repair what is broken. And never come back here, . . . .

because all they tell you to do is spend more money without first properly diagnosing what might be wrong with your truck, if so

 

[zapatius]

Run away - it will cost you $20,000, it will catch on fire, it's not locked, it will kill you in your sleep....insert whatever negative thing I can't believe someone hasn't said yet.

Find what's leaking, replace the seal. When something else leaks, replace that seal. Keep going until nothing leaks or you stop caring.

The only seal I've done that was a true PITA was the rear main and arch seal. Good luck and at least you're not doing weeks of rust repair!

 

[TomH]

Could you please expand on the head cracking on cylinder number 4 being very typical. The reason i ask, I've been an active member on this board for almost 5 years, and this is the first i've heard cylinder number 4 having a problem with cracking. Now problems with a head gasket failing, well yes that seeems to be a somewhat common problem with the 1FZ-FE engine. But the cylinder head cracking, I've not heard, or read were that's a common problem with the 1FZ-FE head at all. So please enlighten me with where you came by that information.

I suspect this is what @skhochay is referencing. I'm not sure I would consider it 'typical' but not an isolated incident. I had cracks around number 2 and number 5.

External cracked cylinder head - Leaking oil!

Okay everyone, I have a new motor with about 2,000 miles on it. Everything seemed to be going fine. Motor was rebuilt by a reputable shop...head was rebuilt by someone who I thought was reputable. Now I do not really think this crack is something that could've been avoided. Just bad luck really...

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Hairline Cracks In Cylinder Head -- Advice Please!

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[Kernal]

BlackMud: how many miles on the vehicle? Got interior/exterior photos?
Lockers?

If you have to pay a mechanic to fix the leaks and perform the catch up maintenance (including the front axle/CV joint service), it could easily cost another 5K.

 

[GSTMike]

I suspect this is what @skhochay is referencing. I'm not sure I would consider it 'typical' but not an isolated incident. I had cracks around number 2 and number 5.

External cracked cylinder head - Leaking oil!

Okay everyone, I have a new motor with about 2,000 miles on it. Everything seemed to be going fine. Motor was rebuilt by a reputable shop...head was rebuilt by someone who I thought was reputable. Now I do not really think this crack is something that could've been avoided. Just bad luck really...

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Hairline Cracks In Cylinder Head -- Advice Please!

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I'd never heard of that, interesting read makes me want to inspect mine a little closer when it's daylight