Greetings, first off great site and forgive me if this issue has been covered. I recently bought a locked '96 with 73K miles (!!!) on it. Truck runs great, no problems, no rough idle, no power loss. The previous owner mentioned he'd replaced the head gasket. This seems to be pretty typical for these engines. I bought the truck on the spot, paid 10G considering low mileage and lockers. Maybe I paid too much; the owner wanted 12G for it. Anyway, I noticed oil leaking in 2 places on the passenger side of the cylinder head, above the headers. I just swapped out the valve cover gasket and noticed 2 hairline cracks where the oil was leaking. Note, I don't burn a lot of oil. Engine runs cool. I have not yet done compression test, that is next. I have driven the truck at least 2,000 miles with no issues; it runs like a tank. I'm still seeing oil leaking from the cracks after new valve cover gasket. I'm not sure what I need to do. Should I just bite the bullet and buy a new head considering low mileage of truck? Or can I get away with an easier fix such as using a sealant? Forgive me if this has been covered in depth, I appreciate anyone's expertise on this issue. Thanks in advance. Cracks are about half an inch from the mating surface, near the second and 5th cylinders. I think the truck warms up and the metal expands, so the oil leaking on the side of the head is only during cold starts. Please advise!
Hairline Cracks In Cylinder Head -- Advice Please! (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter brukshut
- Start date
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We need to see pics of where you are talking about here.
If you are having no issues, other than minor seepage, I would be tempted to get a used head, have it tested/prepped (pressure test, vac test the valves, check for flatness/resurface, etc.), and then replace the head on your own schedule. IOW, if it is not causing any problems currently, I wouldn't just park it. I wouldn't want to take any long trips in it though. A used OEM head would be the way to go, probably much cheaper than a "new" head, and cracked heads are pretty rare. There have been a few reports of less than desirable aftermarket heads, so I would avoid those.
- Thread starter
- #5
Photos Of Cracked Head
Wow, thanks for quick response. You guys rock. You've already answered one of my questions -- whether or not to go with a OEM head (should I replace it) or an aftermarket one. The OEM heads for a 4.5 I6 are 1,100.00 new. I've seen aftermarket ones for about $500. I suspect you get what you pay for.
FYI the previous owner used it to tow a boat which may explains why he blew a head gasket originally for such a low mileage truck. The first photo is the engine with cover off, the second is the first crack between first and second cylinders, the third photo is crack between fifth and six cylinders.
http://www.bitpusher.org/uploads/cracked_cylinder_head1.jpg
http://www.bitpusher.org/upload/cracked_cylinder_head2.jpg
http://www.bitpusher.org/upload/cracked_cylinder_head3.jpg
Wow, thanks for quick response. You guys rock. You've already answered one of my questions -- whether or not to go with a OEM head (should I replace it) or an aftermarket one. The OEM heads for a 4.5 I6 are 1,100.00 new. I've seen aftermarket ones for about $500. I suspect you get what you pay for.
FYI the previous owner used it to tow a boat which may explains why he blew a head gasket originally for such a low mileage truck. The first photo is the engine with cover off, the second is the first crack between first and second cylinders, the third photo is crack between fifth and six cylinders.
http://www.bitpusher.org/uploads/cracked_cylinder_head1.jpg
http://www.bitpusher.org/upload/cracked_cylinder_head2.jpg
http://www.bitpusher.org/upload/cracked_cylinder_head3.jpg
- Thread starter
- #6
Sorry, here are the correct URLs (WTF I can't edit my previous posts, stupid).
http://www.bitpusher.org/uploads/cracked_cylinder_head1.jpg
http://www.bitpusher.org/uploads/cracked_cylinder_head2.jpg
http://www.bitpusher.org/uploads/cracked_cylinder_head3.jpg
http://www.bitpusher.org/uploads/cracked_cylinder_head1.jpg
http://www.bitpusher.org/uploads/cracked_cylinder_head2.jpg
http://www.bitpusher.org/uploads/cracked_cylinder_head3.jpg
- Thread starter
- #8
Pardon my ignorance, what is FPIG? I just cleaned the side of the head...
Pin_Head said:
00295-00103. (Black)
Toyota list: $13.87 a rattle.
- Thread starter
- #11
Thanks to everyone who replied -- I'll clean the side of the head and see if I can seal up the leaks. I'm gonna check the compression on the cylinders while I'm at it -- just to be safe. Should I decide to replace the head, I'll go with an OEM head (or slightly used/reconditioned one).
Much appreciated and will let you know how I fare. I only use the truck for surfing and fishing, BTW. Cheers!
Much appreciated and will let you know how I fare. I only use the truck for surfing and fishing, BTW. Cheers!
That does not look like OEM Toyota Industries machine work.
We have a new OEM 1FZ head at work (as a spare, of course
) and there are no machine etchings into metal like that.Even the spare heads I have have at home have no machine indications like that.
- Thread starter
- #14
You know, I was wondering about that myself. The head is definitely a Toyota head, there's a metal label on the side of it which I noticed today. Funny, I also noticed some gouges in the mating surface near the half moons up front which don't leak but aren't pretty.
Bigger question is, how did these crack happen? My theory is the truck was used for towing a boat, the last owner blew the head gasket and let the engine overheat, thus causing the cracks to form (and possibly warp the head)
He then had a shoddy shop do the head gasket; the head was warped, so they machined the mating surfaces and did a poor job of it. I'll post a photo of the gouges near the half moons -- they don't leak oil, they are just ugly. I'm starting to feel that I should replace the head just to be safe. What else besides warping/overheating would cause the head to crack in these two places? Where else is it compromised?
I noticed some white smoke from the pipe in the past day or so, but I attributed this to leaks from coolant in the heater hoses underneath the throttle body when I did the valve cover seal. Some coolant leaked on one of the injectors so I saw some wisps of white smoke after a cold start in the morning (gone after it warms up).
I just swapped out all heater hoses and thermostat today, including the ones under the throttle body, so hopefully that was the cause of the smoke. I was fearing coolant leaking into the cylinders obviously. I needed to rule that out.
Bigger question is, how did these crack happen? My theory is the truck was used for towing a boat, the last owner blew the head gasket and let the engine overheat, thus causing the cracks to form (and possibly warp the head)
He then had a shoddy shop do the head gasket; the head was warped, so they machined the mating surfaces and did a poor job of it. I'll post a photo of the gouges near the half moons -- they don't leak oil, they are just ugly. I'm starting to feel that I should replace the head just to be safe. What else besides warping/overheating would cause the head to crack in these two places? Where else is it compromised?
I noticed some white smoke from the pipe in the past day or so, but I attributed this to leaks from coolant in the heater hoses underneath the throttle body when I did the valve cover seal. Some coolant leaked on one of the injectors so I saw some wisps of white smoke after a cold start in the morning (gone after it warms up).
I just swapped out all heater hoses and thermostat today, including the ones under the throttle body, so hopefully that was the cause of the smoke. I was fearing coolant leaking into the cylinders obviously. I needed to rule that out.
- Thread starter
- #15
Kernal -- now that I think of it, bad machining could be the cause of it. The cracks run about half inch down from the mating surface.
Brukshut,
You received some good info here from Pin_head, Beno, and Kernal. There are some very common symptoms around HG failure and the not so common cracked heads. If you replace - try to stay away from Aftermaket castings and source a "new" used head that can be tested.
And it sounds like you got a nice truck otherwise...congrats.
You received some good info here from Pin_head, Beno, and Kernal. There are some very common symptoms around HG failure and the not so common cracked heads. If you replace - try to stay away from Aftermaket castings and source a "new" used head that can be tested.
And it sounds like you got a nice truck otherwise...congrats.
- Thread starter
- #17
You guys are rad. Didn't expect such an outpouring of knowledge. Considering I got the truck for 2G cheaper than asking price, and I plan to own it forever, I think it's a no brainer to just replace the head soon rather than risk something down the road (or by the side of the road).
1.) Can anyone recommend a shop around tri-state area that you'd be willing to trust to do the work? Money's not an issue, I want quality work.
2.) While I'm replacing the head, should I get new springs or valves? Should I replace the timing belt? etc. IOW, do any other routine maintenance/improvements that would make sense to take care of when the head is off which would improve performance or durability (yeah hard to improve durability of this engine I suppose).
What would YOU do if you were replacing the head and were not too concerned about money (OK, don't say TRD supercharger, but that may be coming...;p)
Again, can't thank you guys enough for the help. I'm so stoked on my rig and can't wait to build it up.
1.) Can anyone recommend a shop around tri-state area that you'd be willing to trust to do the work? Money's not an issue, I want quality work.
2.) While I'm replacing the head, should I get new springs or valves? Should I replace the timing belt? etc. IOW, do any other routine maintenance/improvements that would make sense to take care of when the head is off which would improve performance or durability (yeah hard to improve durability of this engine I suppose).
What would YOU do if you were replacing the head and were not too concerned about money (OK, don't say TRD supercharger, but that may be coming...;p)
Again, can't thank you guys enough for the help. I'm so stoked on my rig and can't wait to build it up.
The 1FZFE engine uses a timing chain, no adjustments or replacement normally required, however there is a chain slipper that can fracture from age, apparently it was redesigned at some point. Lots more work to get into that, have to remove the timing chain cover. Others will chime in with more experience.
Never done a head R&R myself but from reading other threads here are some things you can do while the head is off.
check rear steel heater lines for corrosion
check condition of heater hoses
check and repair engine harness if damaged and insulate the harness against high heat (it can get damaged from the EGR pipe).
replace heater valve (plastic corrodes from age/heat, but again, only 73K miles)
replace EGR VSV and old hoses located under the top half of intake manifold
hot tank (wash), bead blast and powder coat the valve cover
replace valve cover gasket
replace sealing for half moons at front of valve cover (should be done anyways)
replace throttle body gasket
clean throttle body
replace spark plug seals in valve cover
replace PCV grommet in valve cover
replace spark plug wires and plugs (Denso Iridium plugs work well IME)
replace distributor O-ring
Wait for others with experience actually doing the job to chime in on other things to fix while you're in there and about improvements. If money is not an object apparently there's a direct ignition system (no distributor) used on some non-US models. Maybe you could import the parts (different head, ECU, ignitors??, ask Beno) and document the whole process. Or, replace the 1FZFE engine with a Toyota Turbo Diesel, very expensive to do it right.
Never done a head R&R myself but from reading other threads here are some things you can do while the head is off.
check rear steel heater lines for corrosion
check condition of heater hoses
check and repair engine harness if damaged and insulate the harness against high heat (it can get damaged from the EGR pipe).
replace heater valve (plastic corrodes from age/heat, but again, only 73K miles)
replace EGR VSV and old hoses located under the top half of intake manifold
hot tank (wash), bead blast and powder coat the valve cover
replace valve cover gasket
replace sealing for half moons at front of valve cover (should be done anyways)
replace throttle body gasket
clean throttle body
replace spark plug seals in valve cover
replace PCV grommet in valve cover
replace spark plug wires and plugs (Denso Iridium plugs work well IME)
replace distributor O-ring
Wait for others with experience actually doing the job to chime in on other things to fix while you're in there and about improvements. If money is not an object apparently there's a direct ignition system (no distributor) used on some non-US models. Maybe you could import the parts (different head, ECU, ignitors??, ask Beno) and document the whole process. Or, replace the 1FZFE engine with a Toyota Turbo Diesel, very expensive to do it right.
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Drop a cummins in it!
powderpig
SILVER Star
I have seen a few of these cracks on some heads in San Fran area on a trip last year (3 heads on that trip). I did not notice the heads cracked before the jobs(so much oil on the out side of some engines). but the machine shop noticed them. They welded up the cracks for about 30 each while they did the head jobs. This was before any other head work was done. So I would guess that the head was cracked before the head job and either they did not notice the cracks or just ingored them.
That said, I have not seen two cracks on the same head. All three heads were cracked in different places on the exhaust side of the head. Looking very like the cracks you show in your pics.
I would just see if some one could weld it up in spot. If not, then gouge out the crack a bit, drill a hole at the bottom of the crack so not more crack spread. Then fill with JB weld. You are dealing with low pressures inside the crank case and inner head area. Just a quick easy fix for some.
Good luck with this. Robbie
That said, I have not seen two cracks on the same head. All three heads were cracked in different places on the exhaust side of the head. Looking very like the cracks you show in your pics.
I would just see if some one could weld it up in spot. If not, then gouge out the crack a bit, drill a hole at the bottom of the crack so not more crack spread. Then fill with JB weld. You are dealing with low pressures inside the crank case and inner head area. Just a quick easy fix for some.
Good luck with this. Robbie
