LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
Haha!
When you get back to the great state of Iowa, we are racing! This will be the start of a new thread.
HELP PLEASE! I'm stuck in the wilderness with a dead fxj80
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Haha!
When you get back to the great state of Iowa, we are racing! This will be the start of a new thread.
JaketheSSnake
SILVER Star
I can't believe I watched that video, it was agonizing lol.
I'm not sure I'll be an 80 series owner when I come back; I just stumbled into a mother lode of diesel, not completely rusted out BJ 40s....
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Update:
per the fsm test, the coil is OK. I'm starting to wonder if it's the ignition module
Good news, the weather has been very nice
Fusible links: tested ok
Crank pos sensor: cleaned and visually ok
All fuses: ok
Applicable relays: tested ok
Fuel: fuel gushes out the regulator hose when cranking the engine
Spark: coil is receiving 12v. NO spark at the plugs or wires or lead to distributor
Still stuck.
per the fsm test, the coil is OK. I'm starting to wonder if it's the ignition module
Good news, the weather has been very nice
Fusible links: tested ok
Crank pos sensor: cleaned and visually ok
All fuses: ok
Applicable relays: tested ok
Fuel: fuel gushes out the regulator hose when cranking the engine
Spark: coil is receiving 12v. NO spark at the plugs or wires or lead to distributor
Still stuck.
Last edited:
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
Sounds like you have it under control. Are any of the other trucks in your party an 80 series that you could pull the coil and confirm that is your issue?
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
Igniter? Not sure of the sequence of things but I had a similar issue with my 80 about 7 years ago. Swapped in a known good used igniter and it has been firing ever since.
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
Hmmmm. Scaredy cat!
Did you check the rotor inside the distributor? Possibly you sheared the cam gear alignment pin? Take the cap off at all yet?
LFD2037
TEXAS LEXUS!
Are you getting 12V where the coil to distributor wire plugs into coil? As in, 12v in and 12v out, taking the main coil wire out of the equation.
ICM/ igniter. If your coil is good and your CPK is good and you still have no spark. I would suggest also your ECM, but you said your CEL comes on when the ignition is turned on. ICM,CPK, ECM, Coil, cap and rotor. It was mentioned you could have potentially sheared the pin that aligns your pinion on the dizzy. Have had this happen on a Honda Accord and a Nissan Pathfinder. Given you have no spark from the coil while cranking; I'm inclined to believe that a loose pinion isn't the problem. If the coil tested fine then I would personally remove the coil wire from the dizzy, pull the boot back a bit and hold it close to a clean ground source. Have a buddy turn the engine over, Fuel pump relay removed of course. If you keep testing the engine with fuel connected you will wash your cylinders and put a bunch of gas in your oil pan if you haven't already. Careful driving it when you do get it started, you should probably do an oil change before driving it any distance, otherwise you risk burning the engine up from improper oil viscosity. If you have no spark with the wire removed and contact exposed then I would suspect the ICM as the next culprit. After testing the aforementioned list of parts, if you still have no spark, I would suggest testing the MAF. Good luck.
SmokingRocks
hopelessly addicted to Cruisers
did you ohm check your CPS as described earlier in this thread?? visual check won't tell you much of anything.
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Like I've written before in this thread.
The coil gets fired by the igniter. The igniter gets fired by the ECU. BUT the ECU needs to see pulses coming from the pickup coils in the distributor. Like I wrote, failure of the coil is unlikely and you've now proven that. I've heard of pickup coils failing. I haven't heard of the igniter failing (though I have a spare)...
Have you checked the distributor as folk have queried on this thread. Pop the cap, pull the rotor and look and see if everything is 'respectable' in there?
Have you checked all the connectors (igniter, distributor, etc)?
Did you measure or just visual the EFI fuse, AM fuses etc?
Pull/reseat the EFI relay?
cheers,
george.
The coil gets fired by the igniter. The igniter gets fired by the ECU. BUT the ECU needs to see pulses coming from the pickup coils in the distributor. Like I wrote, failure of the coil is unlikely and you've now proven that. I've heard of pickup coils failing. I haven't heard of the igniter failing (though I have a spare)...
Have you checked the distributor as folk have queried on this thread. Pop the cap, pull the rotor and look and see if everything is 'respectable' in there?
Have you checked all the connectors (igniter, distributor, etc)?
Did you measure or just visual the EFI fuse, AM fuses etc?
Pull/reseat the EFI relay?
cheers,
george.
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Here's some igniter tests you can do, attached few pages of PDF of 96 manual.
cheers,
george.
cheers,
george.
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A few years ago we had a no start situation as well and after some testing found the MAF was bad.
It had fuel, power through all of the above mentioned circuits, but wouldn't fire.
It had fuel, power through all of the above mentioned circuits, but wouldn't fire.
I happened to be in there this morning - this is what I found.
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
That is what I was referring to, I thought it also was set off if the truck is inverted.
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
It was mentioned earlier, but I'd do a slightly different check based on your continual chase for spark.
When you say you are getting no spark, are you allay using part of the engine block for a ground? Have you tried using the battery negative? The comment mentioned earlier wa to check your grounds, the reason I bring it up again, is I have had a ground strap from the block to the frame come off. Without a ground to the block, you won't get spark even if everything is working properly. It's the other half of the fuseable links.
When you say you are getting no spark, are you allay using part of the engine block for a ground? Have you tried using the battery negative? The comment mentioned earlier wa to check your grounds, the reason I bring it up again, is I have had a ground strap from the block to the frame come off. Without a ground to the block, you won't get spark even if everything is working properly. It's the other half of the fuseable links.
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Starter motor gets ground from the block/bellhousing.
You would actually want a GOOD ground at the head (since that's where the spark plugs get their ground path). The head has a ground strap that goes to the firewall. Block has the big ground cable to the battery. Head of course bolts to block with head bolts too. Battery also has a strap that goes to the body, next to driver's side inner fender (at the battery tray). I'm sure there's a few more ground straps, but those are the key ones for starter and spark plugs.
cheers,
george.
