HELP PLEASE! I'm stuck in the wilderness with a dead fxj80 (1 Viewer)

[george_tlc]

Glad to read you're back at home and even with all the hassles you'll have a good story to tell for quite a few years to come

Also glad to read that your mates stuck with you through it all (would hardly be mates if they didn't).

I still well remember a trip in oz that ended up with a set of broken leaf spring u-bolts and having to ride (I always carry a small honda minibike along) back to the hwy (20 or so miles) to get a lift to the nearest town (some 70 miles away) to get some replacements made (recycled engine headbolts) and then reverse the trip. Of course there's much more to this story, but that's for another time

Anyhow, I'm sure we're all going to be very interested to find out exactly what failed, so please include us all in the fault finding/repair stage that will now begin.

You hopefully have the FSM, if not download the (free) 96 electronic version that birfmark did and also the EWD. Both the electronic versions are searchable, so very useful.

cheers,
george.

 

[bryanb]

Thanks for the info. Were you on "closed to through traffic" Wildrose, lol. Last October, if I had cell (or a sat phone) we could have saved this motorcyclist 45 minutes of laying in the dirt.......dirt secton of PV Rd.

No, Defense Mine is off of Minietta Rd., West of Panamint Valley Rd.

 

[bryanb]

For those who are interested, I broke down precisely at:
36°14'44.3"N 117°24'53.2"W

 

[gofast]

You'll have to update this thread with the results when you get it running again

 

[Wayne]

I'm so relieved you made it back home, even if you had to be towed 190 miles. Keep us updated on what you found and did that finally fix the "no spark" problem.

 

[cruiserdan]

I happened to be in there this morning - this is what I found.View attachment 1196413

That is part of the ABS system. It has nothing to do with engine management.

 

[bajaphile]

For those who are interested, I broke down precisely at:
36°14'44.3"N 117°24'53.2"W

Great, now I have to find a new secret poop spot.

 

[alia176]

I read the entire thread and NOT A SINGLE FREAKING PICTURE? I mean come on, pics of broken down junk, greasy people, tools everywhere, pissed off wives, children running amok is even better than beautiful landscape shots

So, now y'all near Bryan must converge upon his dead 80 and solve this damn riddle. The suspense is killing me already

 

[Twinair]

I gots to know!!

 

[woodsman 44]

pics or it didnt happen

 

[justbecause]

 

[bryanb]

Doing some more trouble shooting today.

Replaced the fusible links and distributor cap and rotor. No change. Still turns over but doesn't start

The light above my voltage indicator is red, even though the battery is charged. A couple days before the trip, I changed the thermostat and got a lot of coolant around the alternator. My alternator may need to be replaced, but would that prevent it from starting?

Also, I have two engine codes:
P0335 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction
P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction

I swapped out the crankshaft position sensor with a known working unit and it still doesn't start. I'm wondering if I broke a camshaft like someone previously mentioned.

 

[Qball]

If it has enough juice to turn over the engine then is should have enough juice for sparks. But doesn't hurt to trickle charge it then give it a try.


Btw where are you located because you might be close to some more experienced muder who might be able to help.

 

[Dragos80]

Btw where are you located because you might be close to some more experienced muder who might be able to help.

36°14'44.3"N 117°24'53.2"W

 

[jfz80]

Um. He's home now

Have you explored the circuit opening relay? I've been battling a cutoff in high ambient temps and finally found a patch with a jumper in COR. Here's a pic. Could be worth a shot.

Jumper top left and bottom left to keep relay on. Located in US driver side kick panel.

I believe the only two signals it feeds off are from MAF and distributor but am not certain and need to learn more on this one




Edit: disregard. I didn't see your previous post with update

 

[1973Guppie]

Doing some more trouble shooting today.

Replaced the fusible links and distributor cap and rotor. No change. Still turns over but doesn't start

The light above my voltage indicator is red, even though the battery is charged. A couple days before the trip, I changed the thermostat and got a lot of coolant around the alternator. My alternator may need to be replaced, but would that prevent it from starting?

Also, I have two engine codes:
P0335 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction
P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction

I swapped out the crankshaft position sensor with a known working unit and it still doesn't start. I'm wondering if I broke a camshaft like someone previously mentioned.

can you do a compression test, wet and dry and leak down test to get some more ideas of what might be going on inside? if it were me I would want to rule that out first. Then you know it's something external from the engine timing. Also maybe double check your timing? has the disty been rotated at all when you worked on it?

 

[bloc]

On a 97 (OBDII 1FZ-FE) truck the circuit opening relay ONLY controls the fuel pump. It is switched directly by the ECU, and when activated provides the +12v to the Fuel pump relay (what steps down voltage for low-flow/pressure conditions, or not) and is passed through or stepped down for the fuel pump.

Just for info.. on OBDI 1FZ-FE the COR controls the same things, but is not switched by the ECU. It is activated directly by the +12v to the starter (when shfter in P/N), as well as once the MAF sees airflow.

@bryanb If your cam was broken it'd sound odd when starting.. some cylinders would have compression and others wouldn't.

on your coil, the Black/Red wire should have +12v when the ignition is ON or START. The Black/White wire at the coil should have continuity to the plug on the ignitor, same wire colors. Both of these wires go through the EA2 connector. This one is 8-pins, gray, and located under the fuse block. There will be 3 connectors there.. EA2 is the only one with 8 pins. Open this connector to see if the appropriate wire colors have continuity to the coil and ignitor.

Other wires from the ignitor.. Black/Yellow.. and Black/Green.. these run from the ignitor to the ECU through the dash harness. They connect to the ECU harness through the IH2 connector behind the glove box. it is the smaller of the two white connectors there.. 17 pins. Check continuity from here to the ignitor.

The solid black wire to to the ignitor comes directly from the noise filter. The other wire at the noise filter, White/Black, should show ground.

 

[Pin_Head]

Pour some gas into the throttle body and see if it catches momentarily. If so it is a fuel problem; if not it is likely electrical.

 

[Twinair]

can you do a compression test, wet and dry and leak down test to get some more ideas of what might be going on inside? if it were me I would want to rule that out first. Then you know it's something external from the engine timing. Also maybe double check your timing? has the disty been rotated at all when you worked on it?

Relevant if he had spark and fuel but no start but he doesn't have spark. OP, Your latest CEL is pointing you in the direction to look. Keep digging. I think you're almost there

 

[george_tlc]

^ Yep, I'd say the CEL readings are pretty clear that the ECU is having issues with crank/cam sensing. I'll bet without those inputs it will NOT fire the igniter and hence no spark. Stay focused on your lack of spark issue and your CEL codes. Don't chase after unicorns...

cheers,
george.