Help? FZJ80 locking axle with 3.70 gears possible? (1 Viewer)

[cruisermatt]

Aww man, this doesn't make me feel terribly confident. I'm all about the cheap!

Your best bet would be to use the 80 axle with your existing third, $250 for a complete 80 rear is a great deal, I'm actually searching for one for another project and if that wasn't on the other side of the country I'd be on it in a heartbeat. If it has the diff you can probably sell that very easily as well, most want's 4.11's to go with their 33" tires.

Besides, the 80 e-lockers aren't really worth the trouble in my opinion. Besides needing the different axle shaft, my experience with them has been that they are slow to engage or disengage, and if you break a shaft with them you are almost certainly cutting a hole in the back of the housing. Also by now virtually any original actuators are at least 20 years old and will need to be rebuilt or replaced. I would run an aftermarket locker of any variety, lunchbox, Detroit, Harrop Elocker, ARB before the Toyota E-locker.

 

[crashmonk]

@cruisermatt i didn't know the 80 diff had a self-destruct function!

I guess i see the 80 axle as a triple whammy. FF bearings, disc brakes, AND a locker!? That's pretty damn glorious for 250. If i was on big tires and actually wheeled this thing, I'd go ARB.

Good point in selling the 4.10s, hmmmm

 

[LINUS]

Besides, the 80 e-lockers aren't really worth the trouble in my opinion. Besides needing the different axle shaft, my experience with them has been that they are slow to engage or disengage, and if you break a shaft with them you are almost certainly cutting a hole in the back of the housing. Also by now virtually any original actuators are at least 20 years old and will need to be rebuilt or replaced. I would run an aftermarket locker of any variety, lunchbox, Detroit, Harrop Elocker, ARB before the Toyota E-locker.

I agree that 37"+ tires, elockers aren't the best choice. The issue that people fear is the RS splined shaft twisting on the splines, and not unlocking.

That is something that has been mitigated too though - milling a swath out of the transitional splines where it isn't needed makes the old "had to cut a hole in my axle, pound back the dog gear" -scenario a rare story now days.

I've had both ARB's & E-locks - If you stay on ~35's elockers are fine, some in the 80 section do 37's & run Moab w/o complaint. I'm on e-locked 4.88's & 315's/34.5" tires in the black 80 & they run flawless no matter where I point the junk - but you are right, the front locker is no firecracker & the rear is flat lazy, like either lock 60-80' ahead or plan how to generate rear wheelspin to cheat the distance.

Would I bother e-locking a 60? No, our 80 cluster has the indicators for lockers & is the main advantage - wiring indicators would be a waste of time IMO.

ARB's lock quicker, esp the rear e-locker design & handle more torque - but are $$$ some don't want to cut loose. Harrops have alot of favorable reviews in the 80 section, Detroits to some degree as well.

If I bought a open diff 80 I wouldn't bother to e-lock either, mainly for the point made about actuators - mine are both new as of conversion & will never see salty roads/corrosion, but actuators are $$$$ to replace.

 

[cruisermatt]

@cruisermatt i didn't know the 80 diff had a self-destruct function!

I guess i see the 80 axle as a triple whammy. FF bearings, disc brakes, AND a locker!? That's pretty damn glorious for 250. If i was on big tires and actually wheeled this thing, I'd go ARB.

Good point in selling the 4.10s, hmmmm

I didn’t realize you were getting a LOCKED axle for $250, in that case sell the locker for $3-400

 

[crashmonk]

I punched in 96 landcruiser with locker, this came up. The 250 one has NL on it though, i would have to call and verify...

 

[Tapage]

After all chat I'm kinda lost .. the OP want's the complete rear axle from a 80 and swap in 3.70 60 series R&P in the 3rd ...?

 

[crashmonk]

After all chat I'm kinda lost .. the OP want's the complete rear axle from a 80 and swap in 3.70 60 series R&P in the 3rd ...?

Correct. I want the rear 80 axle and all its goodies. But not if i can't have 3.7 gearing.

The mighty mitsi is thirsty enough.

 

[LINUS]

Correct. I want the rear 80 axle and all its goodies. But not if i can't have 3.7 gearing.

The mighty mitsi is thirsty enough.

Book a ticket & go swipe that axle from under @Tapage. Done deal.

 

[crashmonk]

I can carry on an axle right?? Peice uh cake

 

[Davaa]

My cable locked 60 diff had 3.70 gears and was a simple drop in fit 80 elocker axle housing. So all you need to find out if the 3.70 R&P would bolt up to 80 elocker 3rd member.

 

[crashmonk]

That pic is fun to look at.

It sounds like this might be a go. If i did indeed find a cheap 80 axle, I'll be sure to post my findings.

BOSSKLLA has gotten too much attention(money) lately, I'm afraid something else unexpected may present itself. Thank you to everyone who posted, I really did search the heck outta this.

 

[White Stripe]

I agree rear elockers are slow. But a rear 80 elocked axle is probably the cheapest way to get width, locker, discs, and full floater. I just live with the slow rear elockers and leave it engaged on the trail but run a arb up front. If u are using your rig hard with big tires or running big tires spend the money on arb. I think 3.70s are a great idea with a diesel to help get a good cruising rpm.

 

[Tapage]

Book a ticket & go swipe that axle from under @Tapage. Done deal.

welcome .. you might need to pay a little bit extra $$$ for size and weight of your cargo .. at the airline counter

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

@cruisermatt i didn't know the 80 diff had a self-destruct function!

I guess i see the 80 axle as a triple whammy. FF bearings, disc brakes, AND a locker!? That's pretty damn glorious for 250. If i was on big tires and actually wheeled this thing, I'd go ARB.

Good point in selling the 4.10s, hmmmm

if you know about the locking axle shaft twist issue, then you should also know that the shaft can have the splines machined down strategically to negate the twist-lock issue... and as far as actuators go, the cable is preferred IMO, altho, the operating principal is the same, electric or mechanical. electric being slow is a matter of resistance and friction. all things being equally operable, the electric is almost as good as the cable- which, BTW has the same twist-lock issue as the electric. all of this is why I state that the goal of a full floater is more valuable in and of itself, than a locker of any discipline. you can always add an aftermarket locker, should a cable be too expensive or hard to find. I am currently running a narrowed fzj80 rear with elocker, but only ever run unlocked. the FF is BOSS. as is the ebrake and rear disks. the thing stops, like, NOW... and one of these days, I'll get the locker going, too.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

410s. period. get bigger tires to go faster...

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

you're welcome!

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

oh. you WILL need OEM 16" wheels or A/M 17" wheels to clear the rear calipers...

 

[crashmonk]

Excuses for larger tires/wheels are welcome! But 4.10s ain't happnin'. All the gears feel super short already. This thing is better on fuel than my v8 Lexus

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

well, hey, if it ain't broke...