Haven’t gotten a hold of an emission book, yet. But can someone help me with this. Looks like one line was looped back….while another is missing.
Thanks.
Thanks.
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This view from the parts diagram might be easier to reconstruct. The hose I highlighted in blue attached to a port on the air cleaner.
I have also attached a PDF with various vacuum schematics I have collected.
I have also attached a PDF with various vacuum schematics I have collected.
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- #4
Thank you thank you.
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- #5
well, plug it in n go for a test drive
report back
The VCV (23275 on the schematic I posted above) has four ports. I only see 3 tubes connected. The one on the bottom (as oriented in the schematic) is connected to manifold vacuum. If that piece of tubing is not connect to the VCV or plugged you may have a vacuum leak.
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- #8
Ok I’ll take a look tomorrow. Just reconnected that one I inquired about and what
a night and day difference. Able to use all 4
gears without any bogging.
The plan is to inspect and replace any bad vacuum lines, reconnect as well.
You’ve been a big help. Thanks!
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Pulled the cat. Had a new one installed. NOW I can drive past 45 mph. Will do a complete tune-up and valve adjustment next.
Question: I have several non-connected emission tubes in my engine bay. Found this thread because my car is also stalling when warm. I'm also experiencing hard to start when warm after sitting for a bit. The 3 biggest visible things I've seen so far is 1) My VCV is missing 2) The new carburetor (installed by the previous owner) doesn't have the emissions tubes that my old carburetor has (still have the removed carb) [Picture shows the new carb with some of the missing connections drawn in, poorly] 3) Big hose at the bottom of the thinggy in the [second picture] appears to be cut off. Does this go all the way up to the air cleaner? Can anyone tell me what the VCV does? It's an expensive part and I'm trying to triage. Is it worth worrying about all the disconnected tubes from the carb? Thanks for your help!!! Anyone here from Boise, ID?
1984 FJ60 162k miles (With A/C no belt connected)
1984 FJ60 162k miles (With A/C no belt connected)
That's an aftermarket non-smog carb. Looks like it doesn't even have a choke breaker or opener on it. The hose is for the ABV or Air Injection system, hard to tell from the photo - again, somebody was "deleting" smog system stuff, although not in a very graceful way. Not sure what VTV you're talking about. Looks like you're in Idaho and likely don't need to do smog testing to register the vehicle, so you have two options: desmog or don't desmog. Neither is easy.
Free download of the Emissions factory service manual here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/resources/2f-engine-emission-control-1981-36043e.138/
You're going to want to read that all the way through several times.
Free download of the Emissions factory service manual here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/resources/2f-engine-emission-control-1981-36043e.138/
You're going to want to read that all the way through several times.
I've identified my "new" carburetor. It's an A-premium brand carburetor. $149 new. There's nothing on their website for instructions. Does anyone have any thoughts about this carb? I'm having issues with the car stalling below about 1100rpm (on the dash meter). It's also very hard to start back up after warm and sitting for 5 minutes. Maybe boiling fuel? I've noticed the breather tube that is at the top back of the valve cover that connects to the back of the air cleaner has a lot of "exhaust smoke?" coming from it when the engine is warm. I have a new PCV valve coming tomorrow. Thinking that can't hurt. Any help would be much appreciated. I've plugged a few vacuum leaks but have no idea where to go from here. Just got this FJ60 and it's a bit of a mess under the hood.
With the issues you're having as well as the smoke from the valve cover breather, I would immediately do the following:
Idle vacuum test. Try to get the idle down as far as you can, because an idle reading at 1100rpm isn't super useful. Find ALL vacuum leaks, keep hunting them done and solving them, and get the best idle vac reading you can as close to 750rpm as you can get. Vacuum gauges are super cheap. Attach it to the fitting towards the back of the intake manifold. There's a large fitting for the brake booster and a smaller one that's for the AC idle up circuit, attach it to the smaller AC fitting.
Compression test on all cylinders. Test kits are cheap to buy and even cheaper to rent. It doesn't take much skill or time, this is going to rule out (or maybe rule in) some bigger issues. You can take a look at your spark plugs while they're out too.
Check dipstick and radiator cap for oil/coolant mixing.
Check to make sure the carb cooling fan runs after you shut the truck off. It's the big round black thing on the inner fender, driver side. It pulls air in through the vent on the front fender and blows it at the carb. Often there's a broken wire from the fan to the temp sensor (bolted on to the manifold with a bracket, below the carb and towards the firewall). If the wire is broken, crimp a ring terminal on the fan side of the wire and bolt it to the body anywhere nearby. Grounding that should make the fan run. If it doesn't, then the issue is with the emissions computer behind the driver side kick panel. The fan has to work or else hot restarts will be hard. Although not the only cause, this is by far the #1 cause of that issue.
Also, note your elevation because vacuum and cylinder compression psi both decrease with elevation. There's a corrective factor you can apply to make your vac/psi readings "sea level equivalent".