Help - FJ40 is sputtering out and having trouble downshifting (1 Viewer)

[Rigsby92]

Hey all - I recently picked up a ‘72 FJ40 and I’ve started noticing a couple of issues that I could use some help with.

1) sputtering/bogging down on inclines:

On flat roads, it drives fine, but as soon as I hit an incline and try to accelerate, it starts to sputter and bog down. Last I drove it, it had a decent amount of smoke coming from the exhaust while climbing a hill (barely made it up). After reading through some threads, I think it might be a fuel filter or fuel pump issue. Anyone know if this sounds right or if there’s something else I should check? I will also note that the cabin has a strong gas smell.

2) Downshifting issues:

I’m also having trouble downshifting. Anytime I go from 2nd to 1st, i’m getting an unpleasant grinding noise. Is this normal? It seems like i can only downshift if I come to nearly a complete stop. Am I doing something wrong, or could this a bigger issue ?

For context, I’ve only been driving this rig for a couple of weeks. After buying it, I took it directly to a Toyota mechanic who was going to give it a look. Since the rig had been sitting for a while, he cleaned the fuel tank, rebuilt the carburetor, and flushed the brake fluid. I recently mentioned the first issue, and he suggested it might be the fuel filter or fuel pump but also recommended looking into a fuel injection conversion kit. Anyone have thoughts on going that route?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

 

[brian]

Completely normal behavior for a three transmission.

 

[Green Bean]

Congrats on your new rig. Just my two cents here: Before throwing a fuel injection system (Holley Sniper?) at the problem; I think that you will want to do more diagnostics on the cause of the symptoms of bogging down; sputtering and white smoke. While those could be fuel-related, they could also be something with ignition/timing or possibly other causes that a EFI would not fix.

 

[Paul_A]

Part 1: Sounds rich to me. Maybe it's overloading with fuel as you lay on the throttle? When going up a hill use 1st or 2nd gear and feather the throttle and see if it runs any better.

Part 2: No syncro on first gear and if the gear oil is cold and thick or the clutch slightly drags you can get a slight grind. If it is severe at a dead stop then you need to look more into it.

 

[FJmaine]

For the sputtering/ bogging down issue, check your fuel filter. I had an issue with mine recently after going off road and being very off camber in both directions for multiple hours. I think it stirred up a bunch of crap in my tank and impeded my fuel flow. Thankfully I had spare filters with me (I have one pre-pump and one pre-carb). After swapping them out I didn't have any more issues. I'll probably pull my tank this winter and get it cleaned.

 

[Mark Jennings]

Grinding going into 1st, no synchros….yep, come to a complete stop, then into first….or learn how to ‘double clutch’.

Bogging on steeper inclines….besides the above recommendations (pumps and filters), make sure the carb float is set correctly…..also, do you know the make of carburetor…is it an aftermarket carb or the original?

Send a picture if unsure…

 

[pb4ugo]

What color is the smoke? You might consider finding another mechanic if he's recommending fuel injection. I would question him on his ability to work on a carburetor. Most mechanics these days have never seen the inside of a carb, or know how it works.

 

[Rigsby92]

Grinding going into 1st, no synchros….yep, come to a complete stop, then into first….or learn how to ‘double clutch’.

Bogging on steeper inclines….besides the above recommendations (pumps and filters), make sure the carb float is set correctly…..also, do you know the make of carburetor…is it an aftermarket carb or the original?

Send a picture if unsure…

Thanks, Mark! Understood on the first gear question. For the bogging down question, I don’t think it’s an aftermarket carb. Should be original. See the picture attached. Thoughts?

 

[Rigsby92]

What color is the smoke? You might consider finding another mechanic if he's recommending fuel injection. I would question him on his ability to work on a carburetor. Most mechanics these days have never seen the inside of a carb, or know how it works.

@pb4ugo funny enough, It was white when it would bog sputter out. I just started it now and I’m noticing when I press the gas, it doesn’t have the same power anymore (seems like it’s sputtering even on flat road) and the smoke is now darker. Any thoughts on what to check for ?

 

[Rigsby92]

For the sputtering/ bogging down issue, check your fuel filter. I had an issue with mine recently after going off road and being very off camber in both directions for multiple hours. I think it stirred up a bunch of crap in my tank and impeded my fuel flow. Thankfully I had spare filters with me (I have one pre-pump and one pre-carb). After swapping them out I didn't have any more issues. I'll probably pull my tank this winter and get it cleaned.
View attachment 3772299

@FJmaine Nice rig! Great shot.

Any advice on how to check the fuel filter? Willing to learn, just unsure where to start. I will take a look this weekend and see what I can troubleshoot.

 

[Rigsby92]

Congrats on your new rig. Just my two cents here: Before throwing a fuel injection system (Holley Sniper?) at the problem; I think that you will want to do more diagnostics on the cause of the symptoms of bogging down; sputtering and white smoke. While those could be fuel-related, they could also be something with ignition/timing or possibly other causes that a EFI would not fix.

@Green Bean any idea where to check first ? I just started it and I’m noticing the sputtering/weakness in pressing the the gas hasn’t gone away. I wonder what happened. Will take a look this weekend but unsure where to start.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Scrape the corrosion off the spark plug wire contacts inside the distributor, aluminium oxide is an insulator.
Check you point gap and timing. Make sure points are clean. Check your valve lash.
Clean and gap your spark plugs. Make sure the center electrode is square edged.
Do a dry and wet compression test. Use Marvel's Mystery oil for the wet part - let it soak in for a day or two.
My 72 came with the goofy 1 year only fuel filter. I threw that away and put on a block off plate for the fuel pump. I put on a gascolator, and a paper element fuel filter with a electric fuel pump. I also add gas dryer and PRI-G on a regular basis.
Spray your carb with cleaner, try and get it into every passage .

 

[igotta40]

Wait, hold up. You went to a Toyota mechanic, he rebuilt the carburetor and cleaned the fuel tank, but didn’t bother changing a $4 filter and now he’s telling you that ‘might’ be your problem? Jesus.

That carburetor in your picture says Holley on it. It’s probably from an old Ford. Land Cruiser carbs are/were made in Japan by Aisin.

Get a new fuel filter and follow the advice posted already and let us know what’s going on.

You came to the right forum. We will help you sort it out and congratulations!

 

[Mark Jennings]

It’s a Holley 2 barrel. Float is sensitive to angles. Get on line and get a set instructions for tuning that carb. Set the float per the Holley instructions. If it runs smooth on the flat…..chances are a float issue.

 

[igotta40]

It’s a Holley 2 barrel. Float is sensitive to angles. Get on line and get a set instructions for tuning that carb. Set the float per the Holley instructions. If it runs smooth on the flat…..chances are a float issue.

In the 1980’s I had the famous Man-A-Fre power package that included a 2bbl Rochester. I’m pretty sure they were taking those carbs & distributors off old Chevys in junkyards and selling them. My 40 sputtered on hills and left turns every single time. I was young and didn’t realize what I was doing.

 

[Mark Jennings]

In the 1980’s I had the famous Man-A-Fre power package that included a 2bbl Rochester. I’m pretty sure they were taking those carbs & distributors off old Chevys in junkyards and selling them. My 40 sputtered on hills and left turns every single time. I was young and didn’t realize what I was doing.

My 68 F has a B Series Rochester (1 barrel), something the previous owner installed in the early 70’s…..and when I bought the truck in 92, it ran so good on it, have never even thought about changing. Gobs and gobs of low end….pulls from idle even at WOT. Runs better on the Toyota then any Chevy 6 I ever owned with the same carb.

 

[igotta40]

My 68 F has a B Series Rochester (1 barrel), something the previous owner installed in the early 70’s…..and when I bought the truck in 92, it ran so good on it, have never even thought about changing. Gobs and gobs of low end….pulls from idle even at WOT. Runs better on the Toyota then any Chevy 6 I ever owned with the same carb.

My buddy’s 65 FJ40 had a one barrel. Same as you describe.

 

[charliemeyer007]

My 72 came with the Rochester 2BBL and a Delco distributor back in 82, they are both still there. I had to fix the accelerator pump gasket back in 2004. About 84 I put on a man-a-fre header when the cast iron manifold cracked in half.

 

[FJmaine]

@FJmaine Nice rig! Great shot.

Any advice on how to check the fuel filter? Willing to learn, just unsure where to start. I will take a look this weekend and see what I can troubleshoot.

I'm not sure what you have for a filter. I put a couple of these in line. They are clear, easy to read, cheap, and easy to change. You can see that the one in there is old and full of debris.

 

[Rigsby92]

I'm not sure what you have for a filter. I put a couple of these in line. They are clear, easy to read, cheap, and easy to change. You can see that the one in there is old and full of debris.
View attachment 3773743
View attachment 3773744

@FJmaine super helpful! will take a stab at replacing mine today. in the meantime, here’s a pic of mine.