Help - FJ40 is sputtering out and having trouble downshifting (1 Viewer)

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My 68 F has a B Series Rochester (1 barrel), something the previous owner installed in the early 70’s…..and when I bought the truck in 92, it ran so good on it, have never even thought about changing. Gobs and gobs of low end….pulls from idle even at WOT. Runs better on the Toyota then any Chevy 6 I ever owned with the same carb.
Mine has a Rochester B. The only thing I don't like is the air cleaner connection is wonky.
 
Mine has a Rochester B. The only thing I don't like is the air cleaner connection is wonky.
Really? Mine fits very well. What year is your rig? Is there a piece missing or something?

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Really? Mine fits very well. What year is your rig? Is there a piece missing or something?

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Yes, the PO (or PPO) cut off the down tube and the connection is made with a rubber hose. I'd be curious to see how yours is mated to the carb. Are you using a rubber gasket on the carb? (5/75)
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I’ll take it off this weekend, get some pictures and PM you….

Where yours is cut, there should be a short neck with a clamp. Then there is a rubber sleeve that gives a snug fit to the carb air horn. Fits perfectly. In fact, when I restored the rig, I got a new rubber sleeve from SOR.

I wonder if there was a different aftermarket carburetor installed prior to the B series????? And that’s why it’s cut up.
 
Mine looks like Mark's, except the PO put a screw/stud in the carb center, drilled the connector duct and then put a lock washer and wing nut on top - this was because it would pop up when off roading and then not have a seal.
 
In 1975, my’74 had both the Man—A-Fre Rochester and a Downey Toyota Holley… Mallory centrifugal distributor. Both ran great but the fuel filters did need replacement on a 3-4 month basis. Certainly not the problem of the carb, but those high prices on gas and shortages may have contributed to those events. Stations may have tried to stretch their supplies by adding s#!t to it. Hell at .72 cents a gallon from .37 within a few months, the extra profit was enticing
 
I’ll take it off this weekend, get some pictures and PM you….

Where yours is cut, there should be a short neck with a clamp. Then there is a rubber sleeve that gives a snug fit to the carb air horn. Fits perfectly. In fact, when I restored the rig, I got a new rubber sleeve from SOR.

I wonder if there was a different aftermarket carburetor installed prior to the B series????? And that’s why it’s cut up.
Not sure, and I don't want to hijack the thread. I plan to repair the carb connection after I swap the engine and carb in a few weeks.
 
Hey Matthew….you know we all want to see a well documented photo editorial on the upcoming swap right?

Good luck and this next project
 
Hey Matthew….you know we all want to see a well documented photo editorial on the upcoming swap right?

Good luck and this next project
@knuckle47 That's the plan, I'll resurrect my intro thread and turn it into a build thread. I am still planning on taking the pan off so I can fix one bad rust spot and replace the rear wheel well supports (and repaint the whole thing), but I think that work will have to wait).
 
Hey all —

sorry for the radio silence. some updates:

- I’ve replaced the fuel filter several times. each time, it seems like it runs better and stronger. however, occasionally, i still sputter out when shifting to second gear. i’m not sure if this provides any helpful context, but i always sputter out on the same hills (maybe i’m doing something wrong, shifting wise). in any case, it’s driving much better w/r/t bogging down.

- unfortunately, yesterday, I was driving locally and I was making a right turn up a hill and i heard a “thud” as I accelerated. I don’t have a clue what happened, but now my rig is strongly shaking as I shift and press the gas. I had to “ride the clutch” to make it back to my house (mile away). I’m reading older posts and I’m thinking maybe it’s my U-Joint? thoughts?

cc: @charliemeyer007 @FJmaine @Mark Jennings
 
Sounds more like a motor mount.

You’d be wise to get an FSM and start crawling around and looking at your rig. Grab 10, 12, 14, 17 and 19mm wrenches/sockets etc… and start tightening everything. This way you’ll learn something about your truck.
 
Sounds like a mount - open the hood and watch the engine while someone puts it in gear and starts to move the truck.
 
In other news, I just tried starting the rig and it cranked but never started (welp). I looked under the hood and noticed this was leaking (whatever this is, it’s attached to the fuel pump). I’m guessing another type of filter ?

You’ll have to excuse my ignorance. learning with trial and error.

I don’t think this is related to my shaking issue, but it could be what’s causing the sputtering !

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In other news, I just tried starting the rig and it cranked but never started (welp). I looked under the hood and noticed this was leaking (whatever this is, it’s attached to the fuel pump). I’m guessing another type of filter ?

You’ll have to excuse my ignorance. learning with trial and error.

I don’t think this is related to my shaking issue, but it could be what’s causing the sputtering !

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Fuel filter. I thought you said you replaced it. That looks old. Can you take a photo of the one you replaced?
 
I thought I did as well. I have been replacing another one near the carburetor. I did not realize there were two (welp).
This one is easily sourced from Toyota or any Auto Parts store. Once you fix the leak...you may get lucky and just have to trim the end of the hose. You may have found one of your problems!
 

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