Help burning oil driving cross Nebraska

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Nov 15, 2017
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Location
Maryland
Car started burning oil badly white grey smoke 1,200 miles into 1,700 mile trip. Oil pressure is fine coolant temps 195 - 203. Car has not consumed oil other than leaks I have repaired and at 1,000 miles into trip no oil level change.

First warning was low oil light 20 miles back. I added one quart and it now appears slightly over full . Great cloud of smoke when I got rolling. I am now parked at a TA

240 328 0357

Thanks
 
So at 275 miles 145 since incident we pulled off for lunch. We came to a stop on the ramp with a huge cloud of darkish smoke on start up it cleared immediately going to let it sit during lunch then I will check oil. Coolant in reservoir seems fine but I do not know how often it mixes with with what circulates in the engine
 
The worst smoke seems to be accelerating after coasting to as stop
 
Smoke at start-up is generally a sign a of worn valve guides; they let oil pumped up to the valves drain into the head instead of back into the crankcase, where it pools on top of the pistons until the next start - but oil is also burning slowly that way while the engine is running, you just don't notice it as much until start-up.

Coolant should never mix with with combustion ever, but it will if there is a hole in the head gasket.

The bad smoke after coasting to a stop could also be indicative of bad valve guides or bad valve seats. If the seats (or piston rings) were very bad, you would notice a distinct lack of power.

Keep checking the oil level at every stop. You don't have much to lose except the cost of oil, for driving with worn valve guides.
 
When you get home, perform a leak-down test on all cylinders. That will help pin-point the problem.
 
Probably won't make much of a difference during the drive but what weight oil are you running, add a higher weight to top off until you get home??
 
Probably won't make much of a difference during the drive but what weight oil are you running, add a higher weight to top off until you get home??
Running 10w-40 the entire way. Top up oil is a synthetic blend
 
Running 10w-40 the entire way. Top up oil is a synthetic blend
It’s just burning it off. Top off with 20-50 Dino oil tell you get it figured out.
 
How many total miles are on this truck, and how many since any type of engine work? Really need to get a sense of how much oil it's burning over what distance or period of time to get some guesses about where it might be getting into the combustion chambers.

If it were me, I'd continue the trip to the destination by adding heavier, standard oil (*20w50) and keep a close eye on the oil level at every stop, every fill up, basically just try to baby it as best you can. Not sure I'd trust an AUDI shop to 1) know enough about Cruisers to test it, and B) what can they do with that info - and what would you allow them to do?
 
If this has just started suddenly then it is hard to see how a valve stem oil seal would be the culprit. I just don't how they fail all of a sudden.
On my '94, if I drove her hard - 75mph+ the oil that is pumped to the valve cover didn't have time to drain down from the baffles and was vacuumed up by the PHH. The first time this happened to me I burned through a quart between Orlando to Jacksonville. When I kept the speed below 65 mph she new burned a drop of oil.
Ironically, a heavier oil will make this worse.
 
If this has just started suddenly then it is hard to see how a valve stem oil seal would be the culprit. I just don't how they fail all of a sudden.
On my '94, if I drove her hard - 75mph+ the oil that is pumped to the valve cover didn't have time to drain down from the baffles and was vacuumed up by the PHH. The first time this happened to me I burned through a quart between Orlando to Jacksonville. When I kept the speed below 65 mph she new burned a drop of oil.
Ironically, a heavier oil will make this worse.
I’m guessing you mean PCV not PHH? Same thing happens to my ‘93. Burns oil when driving at higher rpm.
 
If this has just started suddenly then it is hard to see how a valve stem oil seal would be the culprit. I just don't how they fail all of a sudden.
On my '94, if I drove her hard - 75mph+ the oil that is pumped to the valve cover didn't have time to drain down from the baffles and was vacuumed up by the PHH. The first time this happened to me I burned through a quart between Orlando to Jacksonville. When I kept the speed below 65 mph she new burned a drop of oil.
Ironically, a heavier oil will make this worse.
Here is more information that most want - the PCV system was pretty clean as part of dress CEL 71.

The Landcruiser in question is a 1994 80 Series with a bit over 239,000 miles. It is a one owner car (my dad) and I have 90%+ of the service records since new. I characterize the maintenance as mostly by the book but light on PM. For example, the birfields were never done (until this spring) but always kept full. The basic life of the car was a 140 mile each way trip to a cabin in the mountains for which the last 5 miles could required chains and 4W low to get out of mud or snow. It was also used to drag dead trees around for firewood. Nothing huge. It has towed a 2,000 pound trailer once DC-Atlanta.

It has seen 28,000 miles use in the last 8 years since the cabin was sold an my folks mov to a retirement community. Much of that mileage is my daughter’s use when she comes for activities as a competitive rock climber.

15 months ago he made a decision to hand the car to my daughter. She agreed to take it. An October 2023 incident which ultimately turned out to be a failed harmonic balancer 7 months later got us on a change all the rubber and do the birfields program which was mostly done late last winter. It has had 3,000 miles since any engine work and 2,000 since the axels were done in anticipation of this trip.

Historically all oil changes were Mobile 1 FS 5w-30. The last two were Valvoline 5w-40 Syn Blend and then the current Mobile 1 FS 5w-40. When the was taken out, the mechanic reported at my request that 7.5 quarts came out after 4,900 miles. We do watch this stuff. Toyota filters since 2017.

I decided to “extend” this oil change as the 5,000 mile mark came on the 1,700 mile trip. At 237,000 miles I found the oil pressure sender (Std. Auto) put in as part of the Harmonic Balancer debacle was leaking at the crimp. It was replaced and I tope up th oil with 0.5qt that I wrote off to the leak. That is the last oil added until this 4-day 1,700 mile trip.

We do not drive this car over 75 and we tend to cruise at 72. I watch temps with a Toyobdi device

Day 1 330 miles, the oil was full ---- hard day through hills

Day 2 389 miles, the oil was full

Day 3 447 miles, the oil was just off the full line not much

Day 4 544 miles yesterday car teemp is 195-203 degees

@130 miles low oil light appears, pressure appears fine. Tempt is 203 degrees. I add a quart smoke pours out the back as I start up we drive to a T/A place 4 miles down the road and this all begins. Paid their mechanic to look it over, no coolant in the oil and no sign of oil in the expansion tank. The car is running perfectly. He sends me to Sinclair to buy oil for the balance of the trip – Sinclair blend 10w-40.

@180 miles I add 400 ml -we have slowed to 65mph but few options to highway

@279 miles I add 330 ml

@368 miles I add 330 ml

@511 miles I add 1 quart – at this point we are in rolling hills and I am doing a fair amount of on and off the gas.

Each fill was too the full mark, but I would not call conditions ideal an I clearly missed @511 miles

@551 miles and on a level spot and fully cooled it is clear I over shot adding a quart. The oil looks free of coolant. Looking at the coolant the level is what I expect but I perceive a slightly cloudy red versus the fresh jug of diluted coolant I carried as spare. Not certain.

Spark plug and compression readings in Nov. 24 – 20k miles on the plugs. Engine was warm an hour or so after a trip.

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Sorry if I missed it, but was the valve cover taken off and cleaned when you did your previous work? Were the oil baffle box drain slots open ie: not sludged/plugged up or bent closed? Functioning OEM correct length PCV valve? IME an incorrect PCV valve (too long) can sit directly in the oil at the bottom of the baffle box and suck liquid oil (not just mist) straight into the intake. Same as what Irish Reiver was alluding to, if the PCV system was sucking up too much
oil that might account for the increased usage and smoke.

I've found that the engine in my 97 FZJ80 (that needs valve stem seals) when filled with Chevron XSP 400 15W-40 burns significantly less oil compared to Mobil 1 10W-40. Something like one quart in 1000 miles with the Mobil 1 10W-40 compared to one quart in 1600 miles with the Chevron XSP 400 15W-40
(and an oil catch can that might catch a ?2-3 ounces).

FWIW
 
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I changed the tube seals and gasket. I did not pay much attention to the baffles at all. It has always had an OE PCV to my knowledge.

No idea how much sludge is in there
 
Sorry if I missed it, but was the valve cover taken off and cleaned when you did your previous work? Were the oil baffle box drain slots open ie: not sludged/plugged up or bent closed? Functioning OEM correct length PCV valve? IME an incorrect PCV valve (too long) can sit directly in the oil at the bottom of the baffle box and suck liquid oil (not just mist) straight into the intake. Same as what Irish Reiver was alluding to, if the PCV system was sucking up too much
oil that might account for the increased usage and smoke.

I've found that the engine in my 97 FZJ80 (that needs valve stem seals) when filled with Chevron XSP 400 15W-40 burns significantly less oil compared to Mobil 1 10W-40. Something like one quart in 1000 miles with the Mobil 1 10W-40 compared to one quart in 1600 miles with the Chevron XSP 400 15W-40
(and an oil catch can that might catch a ?2-3 ounces).

FWIW
Ok, an oil chang is on the agenda before I get outta here Sunday. Helluva day. We somehow managed to beak the passenger seat fore aft drive.... I know there is a ton of stuff on that so I will get on a search.
 
Post an update once you're back on the road.
 
We stopped in at Cruizers & Company yesterday, incredibly nice team there BTW. They looked and listened confirming what you have indicated- valve guide seal or seals shot. They pulled and tested the PCV and while it appeared fine they suggested a new one as a long shot

They are down the road from its new home, but slammed until September. We are going to arrange for a leak down test next week along with an overdue oil change.

For now, they feel there is no harm in running it with spare oil at hand. I am going to try and find the oil you recommended in an earlier post.

Of note, up at these elevations it not only has less power, but it runs hotter. In Maryland I have never seen temps above 206 and it runs at 195-199. Here I am seeing 206 and a peak at 217


morning of 4 July after a scenic round trip to Boulder, I am 1/2 quart low - this puts to rest any PCV valve discussion.

Next step is to park it until we get leak down test results.
 
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