Looking for advice on places to look BEFORE I take the plunge and remove the head. My 97 with 250k miles constantly has the faint smell of burning oil but startup and idle shows no smoke out of the exhaust. The only time I can get smoke to be visible from the exhaust is (from idle) to step on the gas hard. Doesn't matter how long it's been running or if it's in park or drive. A quick snap of the throttle will yield a good puff of smoke. I am running rotella T4 15W-40. Normally I know that smoke under acceleration means rings and startup/deceleration means valve seals. But this isn't either. If I come to a stop sign and get on the gas it will puff smoke for the initial blip of the throttle but if I stay on the gas the smoke stops. It's just simply the on the first snap of the throttle. Any tips?
Blue Smoke (burning oil) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Jayco80
- Start date
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ppc
M Go Blue
What you describe in my opinion will be the valve seals and possibly valve guides. If it was piston rings there would be constant burning at all speeds and over time be very noticeable visually. Best thing to have a compression and leak down test, It will point to where the problems are and and specific cylinders.
- Thread starter
- #4
Yea that's where my mind went to. I've heard the pcv can do crazy things as well. Mine is new and functioning correctly but I read some posts about a tray below the pcv. Was thinking someone might suggest that and tell me if my symptoms sound like they may match the tray.
ppc
M Go Blue
The tray is an oil baffle and would not be the sole issue if it any problem. Mud OCD has infected you.
If your going to work the.seals only that can be done without removing the head but that is something for an experienced mechanic. Anything beyond like the valve guides then the head needs to be pulled. At that point you in for a full head job, possible decking of the head and block, valve grind/lapping. If you feel brave you can pull the head yourself and have all head/valve work by a machine shop. With the valve cover off the "tray" can be inspected, cleaned, hot tanked or similar.
If your going to work the.seals only that can be done without removing the head but that is something for an experienced mechanic. Anything beyond like the valve guides then the head needs to be pulled. At that point you in for a full head job, possible decking of the head and block, valve grind/lapping. If you feel brave you can pull the head yourself and have all head/valve work by a machine shop. With the valve cover off the "tray" can be inspected, cleaned, hot tanked or similar.
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