Head Gasket done - no start (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter musthave
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #204
With all rod bearings and main bearings loose, crankshaft still won’t turn. The only thing left is the two or 3 inches past main number seven and the end of the bracket.
Interested in any opinions.
Interested in any opinions.
I would measure the crank journals and polish them up and then if it is OK, then replace the bearings and run it.
It must have been assembled dry to fail that quickly.
#6 didn’t “spin” the bearing. That is when the Bearing spins in the rod and the crank really gets ground up.
It must have been assembled dry to fail that quickly.
#6 didn’t “spin” the bearing. That is when the Bearing spins in the rod and the crank really gets ground up.
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mingles
GOLD Star
How long did the engine sit from when it last ran for real and then through the rebuild process? Could water somehow have accumulated in the oilpan over time?
- Thread starter
- #207
The vehicle was parked for about 45 days during HG rebuild. The bearings weren’t previously touched. Perhaps from sitting? Water could have been introduced during the original crank no start issue. Or through oil cooler.
mingles
GOLD Star
So you started the "crank no start" session with fresh oil in the crankcase?
- Thread starter
- #210
There is an upper and a lower, they separate fine.
Yes, fresh build of everything. New oil, filter, fluid. Only oil. But after a few hours of crank no start, then it ran for 4 seconds. So, when it started, there was likely already a large amount of antifreeze in the oil.
ppc
M Go Blue
When you originally replaced the head gasket how did you clean the tops of the pistons? Any chemicals used may have washed away any protective lubrication as all the cylinder walls look dry, scuffed with corrosion beyond what would have occurred after the engine locked up.
It looks as if the PHH clamp caused interference between the block and head. You can see the indentation from it once you took the head off.
I’ve noted this interference when installing the head and how it did not seat perfectly flush. The PHH clamp needs to be installed with this in mind. This could have caused coolant to enter the system.
I’ve noted this interference when installing the head and how it did not seat perfectly flush. The PHH clamp needs to be installed with this in mind. This could have caused coolant to enter the system.
- Thread starter
- #215
I cleaned the top of the pistons with simple green several times, then cleaned with brake cleaner, then wiped nicely. They all looked nice when I put the cylinder head back on.
No issues on the vehicle at all when I decided to do HG as PM.
I hadn't noticed that, good find. That very well could have been the issue. It looks as if that clamp may have interfered with the correct seating of the head. Wow, this is interesting for sure. It would have caused a sizable gap there. Wow! Thinking...
Good catch on that! That's the voice of experience!
I got into a habit years ago of using a small inspection mirror anytime I install precision parts. Especially where it's hard to see like the back of the 80 engine. I even use it for the valve cover gasket.
When I was lowering the head with the cherry picker, i noticed this interference. Made some adjustment and finished the job.
Great observation. Definitely looks like the constant clamp indention on HG. Might just be from positioning and lowering head onto motor. It looks from pic that clamp is in the clear? I would think a rectangle imprint from clamp on HG would be present about an inch long if it didn't seat flush? Is the rear of the phh nipple flush with motor block when mounted?
^^^^
Not really:
But the clamp doesn't need to be right up against the head, there is plenty of 'nipple' to engage....if it hasn't been shortened.
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