Head Gasket done - no start

musthave

Desert Dune Offroad
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Sep 4, 2013
Messages
4,461
Location
St. Pete, Florida
 
Yeah, looks like this I think:

13711-66030Intake Valve
13715-66030Exhaust Valve
90913-02096Valve Seals
90913-02105Valve Seals
90501-38006Valve Springs
13741-66020Valve Spring Retainers
90913-03027Valve Keeper
13751-66020Valve Lifters
13753-66020Shim



So, around $1900 +/- YMMV. That's not counting the camshafts, gears, etc. Ouch.
 

musthave

Desert Dune Offroad
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Sep 4, 2013
Messages
4,461
Location
St. Pete, Florida
 
Is there a need for a new head other than starting at base with the new short block?
The key word is "need". I have the new short block so it seems right to make it all right and new. Of course when I start adding up all the other items I am certainly 2nd guessing myself on the new head and other ancillary items. The head that came off was good to begin with. It's had required work done to it and is believed to be good. I guess I question it though. Could the machine shop have taken off too much and it didn't seat correctly because the head bolts bottomed out? I don't know what that measurement needs to be, and I don't know if they know. So it just leaves an unknown. It would be tragic to put the "known good" head back in with a new block and end up with another issue. It's such a tough call. I'm curious what "everyone else" does. New block and machined head with valve job and call it good?
 

MoJ

Moderator
Joined
Oct 24, 2003
Messages
4,035
 
 
 
The key word is "need". I have the new short block so it seems right to make it all right and new. Of course when I start adding up all the other items I am certainly 2nd guessing myself on the new head and other ancillary items. The head that came off was good to begin with. It's had required work done to it and is believed to be good. I guess I question it though. Could the machine shop have taken off too much and it didn't seat correctly because the head bolts bottomed out? I don't know what that measurement needs to be, and I don't know if they know. So it just leaves an unknown. It would be tragic to put the "known good" head back in with a new block and end up with another issue. It's such a tough call. I'm curious what "everyone else" does. New block and machined head with valve job and call it good?
I’m pretty well nuts on going overboard to mitigate the risk (inconvenience) of failure. In this instance I would lean toward skipping the new head. Perhaps, for additional reassurance, I would take it to a second shop to verify. But, I’m certainly far from an engine rebuild expert.
 
Joined
Aug 9, 2003
Messages
9,014
 
 
 
Wow. I did not read through this from the beginning, but it looks like the block had oil starvation when you started it up? Those bearing shells should have been dripping with oil even if the engine was shut down a year ago. So if it had a mix of coolant in it, there must have been a lot in the oil pan. Water being heavier, that's what the oil pump was pumping - coolant. The end of the crank must have siezed into whatever's beyond #7 journal.
 
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