LC4LIFE
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Bummer man. This really sucks.
Head Gasket done - no start
- Thread starter musthave
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #103
Yes, down that road I go. Hopefully it’s not too hard.
- Thread starter
- #105
Not 100% sure, but it's looking like I am pulling them both together.
Also, at 342 foot pounds, I was able to move the crankshaft. Not sure if that means anything or not, but it moved, and no sounds.
That said, step 26 says that you have to remove the exhaust. If I have the exhaust manifold removed, is this still necessary?
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Exhaust can stay in place if you pull motor only. Not sure if you pull tranny with it.
My trans is still functioning well....so I'll only be replacing the front seal in it which can be done with it still in the vehicle. I know there are a couple of bell housing bolts that are difficult to get to but other's have done it. So I plan to just pull the engine on mine.
- Thread starter
- #107
I could probably reach the bell housing bolts, I have the the tools.
BUT.
I am unable to turn the crankshaft, AND I can't shift into neutral. So it comes out as one big piece.
BUT.
I am unable to turn the crankshaft, AND I can't shift into neutral. So it comes out as one big piece.
You could still pull the engine with the torque converter attached and leave the transmission in the truck. There is big potential for big mess with transmission oil spillage.
- Thread starter
- #110
I made the decision (based on limited choices) to pull the engine and transmission together. Everything is ready on the front. Driveshafts and a few bolts inside along with a few other steps. Then get a helper to take cross member off and take it out.
Best of luck! If I were closer I would help.
- Thread starter
- #114
Things are lined up to tackle this today, hoping that we can get it out without any collateral damage. Only thing I need to get is a load balancer / leveler to use on the hoist. Otherwise I think I'm set. First time for everything I suppose. Grab the
and 
, it's sure to be eventful.
It will be fine. Enjoy the day
Dang it. I read your entire thread bc I just overheated/blew my HG 5 hours north of you in Tallahassee today. I'm crossing fingers at this point for you also now!
- Thread starter
- #118
Other plans were cancelled, so the engine pull commenced around 3PM after picking up the load leveler. Thanks to @stpetedale for giving up his afternoon to lend a hand getting it out.
A few things remained that we took care of, 1 bolt on bell housing that holds the bracket for the exhaust, PS hoses, and a few other miscellaneous items.
By 7PM we had the engine out, and the rolling cruiser out of the driveway.
A few things remained that we took care of, 1 bolt on bell housing that holds the bracket for the exhaust, PS hoses, and a few other miscellaneous items.
By 7PM we had the engine out, and the rolling cruiser out of the driveway.
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- Thread starter
- #119
Some observations.
When I originally tried to turn the crank after it seized I also noted that I could not shift into neutral. After removing the engine and transmission I noticed that I am able to shift the shifter into Park, reverse, neutral, 2, and 1. So it goes into neutral. Wondering if I put it in neutral and attempt to separate the transmission from the engine.
Next, responsible party. I haven't notified the original machine shop of the failure. I am trying to determine the next best steps for what happens next.
Things to consider.
1. If I bring it to the original machine shop, what is the likelihood that they will cover up any error they made, I get charged for everything and have no recourse. They just say yea, it was your fault and you owe $1500 for new stuff.
2. If I notify them tomorrow of the failure. See what they say. Then likely take it to a different machine shop and ask them to document it, and maybe tell them why. Have them do everything. Maybe I pay the same $1500, but IF it was the original machine shop at fault, I would have documentation to that point.
Then the questions:
What is the likelihood that I will recover any losses from the original machine shop? In small claims court?
If by chance I need a new block, and the new machine shop determines that it was the fault of the original machine shop, would they be liable for the cost of a new block?
Or, do I suck it up and not worry about it and just fix it.
What do others think?
When I originally tried to turn the crank after it seized I also noted that I could not shift into neutral. After removing the engine and transmission I noticed that I am able to shift the shifter into Park, reverse, neutral, 2, and 1. So it goes into neutral. Wondering if I put it in neutral and attempt to separate the transmission from the engine.
Next, responsible party. I haven't notified the original machine shop of the failure. I am trying to determine the next best steps for what happens next.
Things to consider.
1. If I bring it to the original machine shop, what is the likelihood that they will cover up any error they made, I get charged for everything and have no recourse. They just say yea, it was your fault and you owe $1500 for new stuff.
2. If I notify them tomorrow of the failure. See what they say. Then likely take it to a different machine shop and ask them to document it, and maybe tell them why. Have them do everything. Maybe I pay the same $1500, but IF it was the original machine shop at fault, I would have documentation to that point.
Then the questions:
What is the likelihood that I will recover any losses from the original machine shop? In small claims court?
If by chance I need a new block, and the new machine shop determines that it was the fault of the original machine shop, would they be liable for the cost of a new block?
Or, do I suck it up and not worry about it and just fix it.
What do others think?
Have you determined beyond a doubt what the actual problem is? Once this is apparent, fault should be easy to assign.
