agreed, hard to imagine that giving up. just a thought
Head Gasket done - no start (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter musthave
- Start date
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Get a stout one...these engines are pushing 600 lbs. and when you start cranking on things (crank pulley bolt) you'll be adding even more force, so it needs to be 'stable' as well.
It’s probably a good thing you talked to him because it doesn’t sound like a guy you want checking his own work. Doesn’t mean he messed it up, but doesn’t sound like if he found something he did wrong, that he would take responsibility. Just my $0.02.
- Thread starter
- #145
Agreed, it's unfortunate too. They've done 3 HG's in the past for me without issue, always recommended them because they were good. But right off the bat saying they never make mistakes and saying that I did something wrong, well, that doesn't help them. I didn't expect miracles. Hey, the HG was our fault, we'll fix or replace it at our cost, but we'll charge you parts and labor for the piston (I think), etc. Ok, cool, thanks. But no dice.
Need to get a engine stand and start doing it myself. Just can't figure out which is best.
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Bolts holes for bellhousing?
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- #149
Hmmm... So I need to get the transmission off first then. But it wouldn't shift out of park, so I am not sure how the transmission will come off at this point. I guess I'll get a better look tomorrow. I'll pick up this stand and assume that it goes into the bellhousing once the transmission is off.
I believe the bellhousing will have to come off as well so the stand can bolt directly to the block where the bellhousing does
The transmission doesn't need to come out of park to remove from the back of the engine. You'll pull the trans and bell housing from the engine but the torque converter will stay attached since you can't rotate the engine.
azngarage
SILVER Star
The engine stand has 4 mount point which bolt the the back of the engine where the trans housing is bolt to. Use the 2 top most bolt and 2 bottom most.
Also, when you hang the engine on the stand, don't center the crankshaft on the pivot of the stand, set it so the crank is much LOWER than the pivot on the stand. It's about BALANCE when you flip it upside down and needing to be able to have enough ass to turn it back upright when needed.
- Thread starter
- #154
Alright, I got the 1 ton engine stand, and I have a dolly for the transmission. Of course, they are still connected.
To pull the trans and bell housing from the engine, it looks like 10 17MM bolts. What else needs to happen for it to separate from the engine besides those 10 bolts, lines, etc. It's not separating for me. I'm sure that I am missing something, or is it just a strong seal?
One challenge with most engine stands are they are built with V8’s in mind. A straight 6 puts a different load on it. I have seen them fail when big six cyl engines are placed on them. With that in mind I always put an axle stand underneath to support the front of the engine.
You have to remove the weight "hanging" from the input shaft of the transmission.
Set EVERYTHING on the ground. Place a tire or two (no rim) under the oil pan to help cradle it and not damage it. If ALL the bolts are out, then the bell housing will separate from the engine. The torque converter will stay with the engine. Maybe throw a tire or two under the transmission / transfer case to give them something soft to sit on while you show them who's boss.
Get a couple bags of oil dry because as soon as it comes out, you will have transmission oil everywhere.
Wiggle the transmission up, down, side to side to release the load on the haft and manhandle the input shaft out of the torque converter. You will have to pull it back about 4" and it will come apart suddenly. Watch your fingers and keep them from between things.
These may help with perspective:
The first one is the "new" transmission going in. You're looking at the torque converter where it mates to the crankshaft inside the bell housing.
The second is the "old" transmission coming out and you can see how the torque converter is supposed to sit inside the bell housing.
That's NOT how the bell housing is supposed to come off BTW.........
The first one is the "new" transmission going in. You're looking at the torque converter where it mates to the crankshaft inside the bell housing.
The second is the "old" transmission coming out and you can see how the torque converter is supposed to sit inside the bell housing.
That's NOT how the bell housing is supposed to come off BTW.........
There are dowel pins between the engine block and bell housing that can get stuck pretty bad. Or a bolt was missed. The torque converter will not resist the separation.
- Thread starter
- #159
Alright, they’re separated. Not so bad.
I need to figure out how to get torque converter off without being able to rotate crankshaft so that I can mount engine to the engine stand.
I need to figure out how to get torque converter off without being able to rotate crankshaft so that I can mount engine to the engine stand.
How about a pic of how it sits now?
I can help, but I don;t recall which direction the flex plate mounts on the TC.
