Builds Harumi the Rusty Rescue JDM HJ60 - Build Thread (1 Viewer)

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I snuck out of camp early Saturday morning in my stealth diesel tractor and headed north for a solo adventure. 2nd and 3rd most of the way up Tioga pass and the temperature gauge stayed in the comfortable area between 1/4 and 1/2.
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I designed and ordered the bracket for my boost compensator before my trip, but it arrived while I was gone.
It fit perfectly. I swapped the compensator spring, the wastegate spring and played with the zero boost fuel setting to get a nice balance of minimal smoke and more power. I'm up to 10psi, which is above my target, but it scoots even more now. I may turn the zero boost fuel setting down a smidge, but i think the compensator and wastegate springs are dialed in fairly well.

Dyno date TBD...

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Up on the dyno again! A modest improvement, up to 110 hp and 204 ft-lbs of torque!
Peak torque shifted up closer to cruising RPM. In vehicle boost gauge says 10 psi (.7 bar) while the dyno boost gauge says just over 9 psi.
There is also a spike of torque and power at high RPM. Boost climbs steadily up until this point, and then jumps slightly, not sure why...

...but it exceeded my expectations regardless! Woohoo!

I did turn up the fuel for the last runs and might bring it back down just because of the smoke...
The last run was with the intercooler fan and big blue fan turned off, and they do make a difference.

Previously...
And before that...

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What sort of EGTs were you seeing on the dyno run?
 
Got some OEM goodies! New water pump, hoses and clamps. It had generic hose clamps and would leak a tiny bit when warm, no more! Coolant temperature seems more stable now too.

Opening up the old water pump, one can see that the Evaporust Thermocure did its job.

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I also replaced the belts while I was in there. I got the Terrain Tamer kit, but the alternator belt in the kit gave me some trouble so I ended up with a Gates TR22425 belt there.

It was impossible to install the Terrain Tamer alternator belt without loosening the power steering bracket, which had some awkward bolts to get to. When I did end up getting it on, it was too long! Ugh, chopping it is then... Terrain Tamer length was 1105, Gates was 1080.


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Saturday we took a trip up to Mount Pinos and Cerro Noroeste for some hiking. The boost compensator made a BIG difference in drivability up the hills and at elevation.

On the steep way down from Mount Pinos back to the highway, it was billowing blue smoke while engine braking. It did this also while offroading during my Owens River trip last month. Both times it cleared up as soon as we got back on the highway and up to speed. From my reading, this would indicate that the valve stem seals are leaking oil into the cylinders. It would also explain the stinkyness I get when slowing down or driving downhill. I am going to attempt to replace the seals with the head on as other Mud members have.

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The following day, I installed a catch can on the PCV as I do have some apparant blowby (this mod was already planned before Saturday's trip). This seemed to reduce the stinkyness at idle and while cruising, but not while decelerating or driving down hill. Or it could be that my nose was plugged...

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Got the tools for the valve seal job and test fit the air adapter in one of the glow plugs holes on my spare engine; fit perfectly. Just waiting on seals.

Are glow plugs usually this oily, or is does my spare engine also have bad valve seals?

My 3B with 325,000km on the ODO had glow plugs dry as a bone when I replaced them. That one looks mighty gooey. Would explain your smoke too?
 
The 2Hs I do - the glow plugs always seem a bit oily.
 
Got a few things done while waiting for the valve seals to arrive. I verified I do not have a headgasket leak, hooray! No overheating, no oil in coolant, no coolant in oil, and no exhaust gasses in the coolant. I think the pushing coolant out the overflow was from air getting in the old hose connections with the worm clamps.

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But I'm making a larger overflow tank anyway...

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And also the front main seal (I think, I hope!) started leaking. Hopefully it is not one of the timing cover gaskets; the one between the timing cover and the engine block looks like a huge undertaking! I resealed the pan a few months after I got the Cruiser, so I think the pan is unlikely. @duncanrm Have you seen timing cover gasket failures and if so, more than a slow weep? 275,000 km on the Cruiser.


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And also the front main seal (I think, I hope!) started leaking. Hopefully it is not one of the timing cover gaskets; the one between the timing cover and the engine block looks like a huge undertaking! I resealed the pan a few months after I got the Cruiser, so I think the pan is unlikely. @duncanrm Have you seen timing cover gasket failures and if so, more than a slow weep? 275,000 km on the Cruiser.

I personally havent seen a timing cover gasket leak.. I am sure it must happen though.

Looking at your photo.. has the oil pressure relief valve cover ever been off? There's a crush washer that should be replaced if it has..
 
I personally havent seen a timing cover gasket leak.. I am sure it must happen though.

Looking at your photo.. has the oil pressure relief valve cover ever been off? There's a crush washer that should be replaced if it has..
It has been off. I replaced the valve with the longer one, but that was around two years ago. I don't remember if I replaced the crush washer.

I did check to make sure it was tight when this new leak first started.
 
I got my coolant overflow tank back from my friend who welded and pressure tested it.
It fit almost perfect, just had to bend the tabs a smidge. The cap actually stays on unlike the worn out OEM cap and no more coolant escapes! Now If there's coolant loss I'll know it's not from here...

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I checked my PVC catch can and found a mixture of oil and something thinner, like water.
Putting it in a clear container, the mixture separated with the black oil on top and the clear yellow liquid underneath. I put some through a coffee filter and ended up with a brownish liquid.

What could it be?

Diesel? Sure smells like it.
Water? Some say catch cans will gather condensation from the crank case in colder weather.
Coolant? It does not look or smell like coolant (I use Toyota Red).
AT-205 Mechanic in a Bottle? (I put some in my oil after my oil leak started to at least slow it down).

I decided to a do a simple scientific test to see if it burns!

...it did not.

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