Builds Harumi the Rusty Rescue JDM HJ60 - Build Thread (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

California air tools, nice. Love a quiet compressor.

Rust haunts my nightmares for a desert rat, but I enjoy watching others fix it
It sure is nice, the noisiest part is draining the tank lol!

I retired my old Lincoln Handy MIG that I had bought in college as a poor college student, and replaced it with a Hobart 210 MVP just for this project.
It's a world of difference running .024 wire with gas on a good 220V welder versus .035 flux core on a 110V buzz box.
 
It sure is nice, the noisiest part is draining the tank lol!

I retired my old Lincoln Handy MIG that I had bought in college as a poor college student, and replaced it with a Hobart 210 MVP just for this project.
It's a world of difference running .024 wire with gas on a good 220V welder versus .035 flux core on a 110V buzz box.

The Hobart seems to be a great machine. I don't have much experience with mine yet, but so far very happy. I can imagine its a big improvement for your setup
 
More grinding, wire wheeling and sanding, followed by two coats of Eastwood Rust Encapsulator.
Tomorrow, the frame bits will get their chassis black and internal frame coating, and the fenders will get some paint!

The spring shackles have seen better days...
I have some new OME greasable shackles, but i forgot to order new bushings, doh!

IMG_20221228_172820_3.jpg
IMG_20221228_172942_4.jpg
IMG_20221228_173013_5.jpg
 
More bling installed. Installing the new shackles was considerably easier than removing the old ones. With the old shackles, the sway bar was angled up 30 degrees or so, and the castor angle was nuts! The new shackles are 3.25" shorter pin to pin.
It should handle a tad better now. I haven't done the rear yet, so she's got a stink bug vibe going on. That's a project for another day.

IMG_20230103_200854_5.jpg
IMG_20230103_200915_0.jpg
IMG_20230102_185007_2.jpg
 
The left hand fender had taken a hit at some point, the the flare was a bit loose. The rivets on one of the brackets were loose, and broken off on another. The studs on the flare itself were also broken off too. I cleaned up the cracked paint and surface rust, put down some fresh paint, and riveted the brackets back on. For the flare, I used epoxy reinforced with some aluminium sheet. No more wobble or rattle, at least from this!

IMG_20221231_110525_4.jpg
IMG_20221231_110556_2.jpg
IMG_20230104_175033_9.jpg
IMG_20230104_175117_5.jpg
IMG_20230104_182155_9.jpg
 
Last edited:
Yippee!!!!!!!!!!!!!!😁
Big milestone!
The core support is in!

I was able to maneuver it in without removing the fenders, only the left one is partially unbolted. Installed with nice fresh bushings from 4Crawler. I ordered the wrong size bushing for the fronts, but @4Crawler helped me get it sorted quick. With my lathe I turned down a relief in the bushing so it fit nicely into the cup on the frame.

🥳

IMG_20230104_203846_0.jpg
IMG_20230104_203747_3.jpg
 
It's coming back together!

I flushed out the A/C condenser and hoses that I touched, and put in new green o-rings. The system was said to have been converted to R134a, but the o-rings were orange? I will go through the whole system at a later date before I recharge it.

The four-eyes fenders needed a little cajoling to fit the round light bezels. Each had two tabs that needed to be ground off, and new holes drilled in the remaining tabs to line up with the holes in the bezels. These tabs had to be bent a bit to position the bezel correctly as well.

The 'new' front valence is a bit rough, but will do for now.

I'm thinking of fabricating metal endcaps for the bumper, since the factory once are in pretty bad shape. I can still buy new ones, but my 4Runner had caps like these originally too, and I busted them off in the dirt once or twice...


IMG_20230107_131502_9.jpg
IMG_20230108_112707_5.jpg
IMG_20230108_112733_9.jpg
IMG_20230108_112840_9.jpg
IMG_20230108_200123_44.jpg
 
Last edited:
The facial reconstruction surgery has been a success! They'll never recognizer her, whoever they are.

And a nice sunny interlude from the rain.

IMG_20230112_135137_5 (copy).jpg
IMG_20230112_134759_0.jpg
 
@SkeeLo22
My cruiser is 24V, so my flasher of course is different! It's been 12+ years since I muddled through the few EE courses I needed.
I shall display my ignorance and take a guess that it is this one that I need to remove, indicated by my crudely drawn red arrows, correct?

IMG_20230112_161110_5.jpg

IMG_20230112_161048_0 (copy).jpg
IMG_20230112_161034_2 (copy).jpg

IMG_20230112_161129_1.jpg
 
@SkeeLo22
My cruiser is 24V, so my flasher of course is different! It's been 12+ years since I muddled through the few EE courses I needed.
I shall display my ignorance and take a guess that it is this one that I need to remove, indicated by my crudely drawn red arrows, correct?

View attachment 3217591
View attachment 3217678View attachment 3217677
View attachment 3217592
That looks like the correct resistor (same value/color banding). To be sure, if you're good with soldering, just remove the resistor, test the flasher & if it works, you're good to go!
 
That looks like the correct resistor (same value/color banding). To be sure, if you're good with soldering, just remove the resistor, test the flasher & if it works, you're good to go!
That's the ticket, thanks! The turn signals and emergency flasher now flash at a reasonable rate with the LED's.

It should be noted that this seems to have disabled the 'missing bulb fast flash' function.
 
Yesterday I began the task of rebuilding the PTO driveshaft. It boggles my mind the things that are well preserved on this truck, and the things that are rusty as %$@!
The felt seals are toast, so I measured the shafts and bores and ordered some standard shaft seals as the OEM are NLA. Also, one of my snap rings was rotted away, so I ordered a couple that were 'close', hoping one of them will fit. The pillow block bores are still in good shape, so into the dip they go!


IMG_20230113_124805_4.jpg
IMG_20230113_125722_1.jpg
IMG_20230113_133104_9.jpg
IMG_20230113_133110_7.jpg
IMG_20230113_135648_7.jpg
 
Disassembly of the winch occurred today without too much trouble, there really isn't that much to it. I have new input and output seals and worm gear bearings to install.
I'm also planning on upgrading to the shear pin to 6mm and possibly thicker cable.
The current cable itself is 26 pounds!

IMG_20230114_155403_8.jpg
IMG_20230114_155409_1.jpg
IMG_20230114_155414_9.jpg
IMG_20230114_155427_4.jpg
 
Up sizing the PTO shear pin to 6mm requires adding material to the yoke, as the new size hole creates a thin section. For this, I cut a small section of tube, bent it to fit the profile of the yoke, and zapped it on. The worm shaft was also drilled to accept the larger pin, in this case a 6mm SHCS.

IMG_20230121_091016_5.jpg
IMG_20230121_091031_2.jpg
IMG_20230121_095807_7.jpg
IMG_20230121_095838_5.jpg
 
Last edited:
The FSM shows grinding the tapered roller bearing races, and chiseling them out to remove them from the worm gear retainer plates. Ugh. I mentioned this to a coworker, and he told me about a neat trick (that he hasn't of course tried yet). I looked it up, and lo and behold it is a thing! Run a weld bead on the inside of the race, making sure not to weld it to the housing. As the race cools, it will contract, and simply drop out.

Race Removal.jpg
IMG_20230121_091110_0.jpg
IMG_20230121_092942_1.jpg


The rest of the winch bits are ready for the dip, and the driveshaft components painted.


IMG_20230121_143320_8.jpg


IMG_20230121_173822_2.jpg
 
Last edited:
The fairlead plate didn't quite fit in the Evaporust bucket, so it's taking another flip in the dip. Its cool to see the before and after on the same part. Most of the rest are out and wire wheeled, just about ready for paint.

I also got a new OEM tow hook. It's the little things. :)

IMG_20230124_182949_9.jpg
IMG_20230124_182952_8.jpg
IMG_20230124_184638_1.jpg
IMG_20230125_183758_9.jpg
IMG_20230124_174408_0.jpg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom