I went with Autometer because they match the factory cluster fairly well, had the right combination of metric units and mechanical pressure gauges, and have the option of angle rings.
I fabricated the mounting plate out of aluminum, wire wheeled it to give it a bit of texture, and finished it with some Birchwood Casey aluminum black finish. I am very pleased how it came out, not too shiny. The cruiser is 24 volts so I had to swap the bulbs out that came with the gauges. For the pyrometer power I wired in a small 24v to 12v converter and a 3 amp fuse. The turbo is along way off, so the boost gauge remains idle...
In anticipation of swapping to the twin stick setup, I took out vacuum valves, hoses, and H4 button. I had previously removed the A/C idle up valve and actuator, so now there was nothing coming off of the small port on the vacuum pump. Rather than cap it, I installed a vacuum gauge!
Not a whole lot of progress, as the 4Runner has been demanding my attention. I think it's jealous of the cruiser...
I took a break from the 4Runner, as I am waiting for parts, and removed the remainder of the sound deadening from the cruiser's bed area.
And it's out again!
One of the leak points on the transmission is obvious where there is some gasket sticking out.
I installed the speedy sleeve and another new rear main seal. Flywheel, clutch and pressure plate are back in too.
The front output stake nut came out without issue, but the rear was a PITA and ended up needing to be drilled.
The rear flange has a pretty deep grove from the seal wearing, and the front has a minor groove but some corrosion I ordered new flanges for piece of mind.
The switch circled in blue is the 4WD indicator switch.
One of the others is for signaling the solenoids to shift into and out of 4WD when shifting into and out of low range. Orange or Green?
The third one is something else?
Since I am doing twin sticks, I am assuming I can just remove the orange and green switches and plug the tapped holes?
This thread shows a 62 and a 60 case side by side with the 60 not having the tapped holes for the sensors/switches.
Transfer case has been torn apart. It appears that it may have been opened before, and that there was a bit of water in it at one point.
The transmission itself shows no signs of water intrusion or other issues, just a bit of wear on the 1st/2nd sleeve reverse gear teeth.
While I have the tranny out, I took the liberty to spray some undercoating in the transmission tunnel and do some frame surface rust repair in areas that would otherwise be difficult to get at.
Much scrubbing to do...
But first I'm off to bake some pumpkin cheesecakes! Happy Thanksgiving folks!
Progress has occurred! All new gaskets on the transmission, front output shaft, and AA 2/4 selector rod installed.
Drilling and tapping the detent hole for this was terrifying!
It was at this point that i wiped off the dirty oil from the idler shaft to put new o-rings on it and install it to the case.
The needle roller caused some wear on the shaft, .006" at the deepest part. Oh well, plenty else to scrub in the meantime...
I filled the two vacuum shift sensor/switch holes in the transfer case housing with a standard fill plug and a M14 x 1.5mm bolt.
Nice and clean with no extra wires dangling about!
Much scrubbing was done. Waiting on a few seals, idler shaft, and a bearing, and then I'll be able to slap it back together!
Transmission work effort seems like it's 30% unsticking stuck nuts/bolts, 60% scrubbing goo, and 10% reassembly...
I also did a little work on the twin stick setup. The boot and mounting bracket supplied with the Advanced Adaptor kit arent quite the rigth shape for the 60, so I made boot retainer out of some rod to match the factory shape. I will cut slots in the rubber pad after I have a better idea where the sticks will come up.
Also got the rear case clearanced for the new low range gear. Even where I didn't break through, the walls were paper thin, and was easily able to poke holes. Luckily I know a guy with a TIG welder who also likes crazy projects. On the first leak test, two pin holes were found. After filling those and testing again, no leaks!
To the folks who do this on a mill, what do the wall thickness' end up being?
