Hardtop Restoration Cost

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There used to a company that makes a one piece fiberglass top with a built in rain gutter. Here's a YouTube video of it.
In my opinion this is a way better solution than piecing together rain gutters with rivets.
There was a guy in CDA ID that was doing this but they were pretty shady and from what I heard did not make a very good product. I had checked with Gozzard they had a top ready to go in stock that I could had shipped for less $2000. I probably would have been better off doing this since it comes with the gutter and the front visor pcs.

Gozzard Composites
 
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Can i ask what shop?

Looks like they work on other cruisers also, so this isnt there 1st rodeo by the looks of it.

No chance id ever pay that much to have my top redone. Hell you could have bought one in mint condition for 1/2 the price.
When dropped it off I told him I was looking to spend $2000 and I thought that was going to be alot!
 
I think he knows he is getting bent over no need to keep rubbing it in... haha

Id really like to know the shop doing the work.
Hahaha . . . It used to be called Joes Autobody in Sandpoint ID. Now called Cabinet Cruisers.
 
Honestly, fiberglass prep isn't much different than sheet metal. For cracks and repair use smc panel adhesive, which is just expensive filler. To smooth it out just use regular filler. If it's terrible you can get resin and matting to lay in. Just make sure you put some good scratches in it with some coarse grit so it sticks well and go just like metal.

I used to shy away from glass until I started working at a shop building fiberglass 32-34 Ford bodies from scratch. Make sure to wear a good mask and long sleeves.

I'm sorry to say that I think you got taken.
 
This will come across like a 'Pop Warner' coach telling Bill Belichick how to organize a football program and I know my top situation is likely much different than yours but... I have so far been pleased with a boat paint to resurface the inside of my top - did fiberglass primer then two coats of the paint.

I'm sure you're getting fatigued over how much TOO much you're paying... Could you pay them for what they've done and get it back to finish yourself?
 
This will come across like a 'Pop Warner' coach telling Bill Belichick how to organize a football program and I know my top situation is likely much different than yours but... I have so far been pleased with a boat paint to resurface the inside of my top - did fiberglass primer then two coats of the paint.

I'm sure you're getting fatigued over how much TOO much you're paying... Could you pay them for what they've done and get it back to finish yourself?
Yeah I could just take the hit and finish it myself.
 
I see no problem filling that channel with seam sealer. If the rivets are exposed there is greater chance of moisture seeping down past the rivets and into the metal channel where it could cause corrosion. Good work costs money-lots of it. Of course such work costs more than buying a new top. A lot of people want a v8 in there cruiser. But it's cheaper to buy a v8 cruiser already converted rather than buy one and have it converted. Lots of examples of such situations and your top is one. That fiberglass cap is a huge surface. Getting it to look nice with no waves takes some work. It is steep but looks like they are trying to make it look nice. If they quoted u 2k though, then that's what It should cost unless they gave u significant reason and notice partway through the job of which your not telling us. They should always tell u b4 hand of price increases and give u the chance to say no. I believe it's illegal to do otherwise and u aren't responsible for such costs. If u did get such a chance and u said go ahead, then u were informed and made a decision for them to proceed and bear responsibility for that decision. I'm gonna guess just replacing the rain gutter should cost 1200 without any materials included.
 
Update: the $2000 that we had discussed was more of me telling him what I hoping to spend on the project, he did not guarantee that he could complete the work for that. The top was in worse condition than he had anticipated with lots of pretty deep scratches and spidering. This has been in the auto body business for a long time and from the Crusiers that I have seen him complete, he knows what is doing and is the right guy for the job. I took a closer look at the gutter and I can see a few rivets popping up, I am not too concerned about what he is done here. Yep you are right on with the V8 comparison. The owner is willing save off about $300 from the original bill and complete the bedliner raptor headliner for material cost so at least is working with me some on this. Still way more than I was expecting.
 
Removing the old top can be a pain in the ass. Some I've quoted a couple grand only to find out some jackhole glued the sides to the top. Had to cut the gasket out which took hours and still screwed up the drip edge. Then you have all the bolts that snap off. Then drill out, grind off or cut out the old rivets and then separate the fiberglass from the rusty ass rail. Sand the tops old seam sealer off while trying no to screw up the fiberglass. Reassemble the sides on the truck with the rear cross member. Bolt new channel down. Grind it to fit and weld it together. Mark all the fracking rivet holes. Drill them out. Paint the drip edge. Adhere the top on the drip edge. Clamp it down. Wait for that crap to dry, Then hand rivet all those bastards. Then your ready for seam epoxy primer, seam sealer, sanding primer, a s***load of sanding, then a sealer, then paint.

How in the hell do you people think 10-15 hrs was enough time?
 
I see no problem filling that channel with seam sealer. If the rivets are exposed there is greater chance of moisture seeping down past the rivets and into the metal channel where it could cause corrosion.

I agree with White Stripe with the seam sealer, seems like a good idea. In fact the last time at the Land Cruiser Heritage Museum In Salt Lake City there were I believe two LC that had the tops finished that way.
 
Removing the old top can be a pain in the ass. Some I've quoted a couple grand only to find out some jackhole glued the sides to the top. Had to cut the gasket out which took hours and still screwed up the drip edge. Then you have all the bolts that snap off. Then drill out, grind off or cut out the old rivets and then separate the fiberglass from the rusty ass rail. Sand the tops old seam sealer off while trying no to screw up the fiberglass. Reassemble the sides on the truck with the rear cross member. Bolt new channel down. Grind it to fit and weld it together. Mark all the fracking rivet holes. Drill them out. Paint the drip edge. Adhere the top on the drip edge. Clamp it down. Wait for that crap to dry, Then hand rivet all those bastards. Then your ready for seam epoxy primer, seam sealer, sanding primer, a s***load of sanding, then a sealer, then paint.

How in the hell do you people think 10-15 hrs was enough time?
True, lots of work here to do it right. I had already removed the hard top from the gutter and purchased a new cutter from CCOT.
 
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Look at it this way if you do let them finish it and they do a good job, paying too much will not be such a huge deal. I've over paid before too and it bothered me but I always was happy as long as the end result was quality. It is the times I've tried to save a little money and had to live with an inferior result that haunt me!
 
Yikes I hope it doesnt cost that much when I fix my top... I have some holes to fill and peeling layers. Drip edge needs to be fixed. I took the advice other other people on Mud and reached out to boat repair shops that specializes in fiberglass repair. Found a good one and it turns out the owner lives right around the corner from me. It will be going to them in the spring once the snow is gone and I take my top off.

EDIT: I take it this is your top on their facebook page? Ive been following them since I saw they very successfully put FiTech throttle bodies on 2Fs. They seem to do very nice work, that is just out of my price range.

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How in the hell do you people think 10-15 hrs was enough time?

The OP said he took it apart and brought him a new gutter. They prepped it, installed the gutter and primed it. Only the outside. The top didnt look cracked or real bad shape. I based 15 hours on that, as well as my personal experience. My top was in pretty rough shape. Worse than the OP. I took just the top to the body shop with the gutter installed and sealed. They prepped the fiberglass, primed and painted. He said it was a lot of work, took him one whole day to prep and the next day he painted it. Cost was included in my body work and paint of the entire rig. Which ended up around 11K. I may be missing something, but I just cant see 3400 for that work. Sorry.
 
Welding and fitting the gutter takes a ton of time. There are 8 pieces that all have to be aligned perfectly before tacking them together. Then you have to finish it up off the truck. Wish they still sold the gutter in one piece.
 
Ryanwk - yes that is the shop!! They do great work. If I were you, I would take a serious look at the Gozzard top w/ the gutter and visor builtin. It will still require some prep work but at least it would be easy for boat shop to do since they don't have to do any welding if you have to replace that gutter. Especially if it is 8 separate pcs, PIA.
 
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Look at it this way if you do let them finish it and they do a good job, paying too much will not be such a huge deal. I've over paid before too and it bothered me but I always was happy as long as the end result was quality. It is the times I've tried to save a little money and had to live with an inferior result that haunt me!
Good point Troll. You mean like the paint the job that I had done years ago and finally getting all the parts and pcs together. Some of the small parts, like the kick vents he painted, are just a bit darker than the main body but enough to notice!!! I can't wait to have the discussion with him after I get it running.
 
I made the trek up to Joe's shop today with truck and trailer so he can fit the top on the body and align the doors. I was having carb issues after trying to fire her for the first time yesterday. Hoping to have a few more updates in a couple weeks.

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