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- #21
I think the picture is decieving. He said he used a two component seam sealer.What did they use to seal the perimeter?
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I think the picture is decieving. He said he used a two component seam sealer.What did they use to seal the perimeter?
There was a guy in CDA ID that was doing this but they were pretty shady and from what I heard did not make a very good product. I had checked with Gozzard they had a top ready to go in stock that I could had shipped for less $2000. I probably would have been better off doing this since it comes with the gutter and the front visor pcs.There used to a company that makes a one piece fiberglass top with a built in rain gutter. Here's a YouTube video of it.
In my opinion this is a way better solution than piecing together rain gutters with rivets.
When dropped it off I told him I was looking to spend $2000 and I thought that was going to be alot!Can i ask what shop?
Looks like they work on other cruisers also, so this isnt there 1st rodeo by the looks of it.
No chance id ever pay that much to have my top redone. Hell you could have bought one in mint condition for 1/2 the price.
Hahaha . . . It used to be called Joes Autobody in Sandpoint ID. Now called Cabinet Cruisers.I think he knows he is getting bent over no need to keep rubbing it in... haha
Id really like to know the shop doing the work.
Yeah I could just take the hit and finish it myself.This will come across like a 'Pop Warner' coach telling Bill Belichick how to organize a football program and I know my top situation is likely much different than yours but... I have so far been pleased with a boat paint to resurface the inside of my top - did fiberglass primer then two coats of the paint.
I'm sure you're getting fatigued over how much TOO much you're paying... Could you pay them for what they've done and get it back to finish yourself?
I see no problem filling that channel with seam sealer. If the rivets are exposed there is greater chance of moisture seeping down past the rivets and into the metal channel where it could cause corrosion.
I agree with White Stripe with the seam sealer, seems like a good idea. In fact the last time at the Land Cruiser Heritage Museum In Salt Lake City there were I believe two LC that had the tops finished that way.
True, lots of work here to do it right. I had already removed the hard top from the gutter and purchased a new cutter from CCOT.Removing the old top can be a pain in the ass. Some I've quoted a couple grand only to find out some jackhole glued the sides to the top. Had to cut the gasket out which took hours and still screwed up the drip edge. Then you have all the bolts that snap off. Then drill out, grind off or cut out the old rivets and then separate the fiberglass from the rusty ass rail. Sand the tops old seam sealer off while trying no to screw up the fiberglass. Reassemble the sides on the truck with the rear cross member. Bolt new channel down. Grind it to fit and weld it together. Mark all the fracking rivet holes. Drill them out. Paint the drip edge. Adhere the top on the drip edge. Clamp it down. Wait for that crap to dry, Then hand rivet all those bastards. Then your ready for seam epoxy primer, seam sealer, sanding primer, a s***load of sanding, then a sealer, then paint.
How in the hell do you people think 10-15 hrs was enough time?
How in the hell do you people think 10-15 hrs was enough time?
Good point Troll. You mean like the paint the job that I had done years ago and finally getting all the parts and pcs together. Some of the small parts, like the kick vents he painted, are just a bit darker than the main body but enough to notice!!! I can't wait to have the discussion with him after I get it running.Look at it this way if you do let them finish it and they do a good job, paying too much will not be such a huge deal. I've over paid before too and it bothered me but I always was happy as long as the end result was quality. It is the times I've tried to save a little money and had to live with an inferior result that haunt me!