Hardtop Restoration Cost

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I made the trek up to Joe's shop today with truck and trailer so he can fit the top on the body and align the doors. I was having carb issues after trying to fire her for the first time yesterday. Hoping to have a few more updates in a couple weeks.

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I love the color of your 40. I have the same side view mirror arms, but with the smaller, rectangular mirror - which I don't like. Where did you get your square mirrors?
 
I just redid the glass part of my top and including buying a whole used panel for 350$ (not perfect but better than the one i had) i have about 5 full days and roughly 8-900 dollars into it. The "new" panel had a couple major cracks and craters that had to be fixed on top of a visor piece and portions of the drip rail that needed new steel. I wouldnt consider paying anything close to 1500 for a top panel let alone 3400. Wow man, thats freaking steep.

D
 
I just redid the glass part of my top and including buying a whole used panel for 350$ (not perfect but better than the one i had) i have about 5 full days and roughly 8-900 dollars into it. The "new" panel had a couple major cracks and craters that had to be fixed on top of a visor piece and portions of the drip rail that needed new steel. I wouldnt consider paying anything close to 1500 for a top panel let alone 3400. Wow man, thats freaking steep.

D

I would agree that it is steep that is for sure! You confirmed the amount hours that he had into it. If I had the time to spend 5 days straight days working on it and I knew what I was doing, I would have done it myself as well. He does good work and I won't have to worry about it for years to come. He ended up saving off about $300 and he through in some material only items to ease my concerns. I just want to get it done so I can start driving her again.
 
Meh, the 5 days included drying time and beer time, didnt mean to make it sound like i was pulling 12hr shifts with no breaks.

D
 
Better to over pay for quality work than under pay for crappy work. Money comes and goes but crappy work pisses you off forever.
That needs to be on a poster in my garage, so true man!!
 
I got a call from Joe yesterday, apparently when I had the previous autobody shop installed the new rear quarter panels on the tub, it is sitting about a half inch high so the hard top does not sit level with the windshield frame. I can't entirely blame this on the 1st auto body shop as the one of the owners had beat the s*** out of the old quarter panels at at one point someone replaced the rear crossmember with a pcs of tube steel. I am hoping they can work this all out with little issues and not have to go down that rabbit hole. He said if they tried to suck everything together it could tweak the fiberglass.

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In further photo memory recall research it looks like the 1st autobody shop had used a wood spacer between the bumper and tub when installing the new quarter panels which probably through off the alignment. Lots of lessons learned on my first frame off.

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In further photo memory recall research it looks like the 1st autobody shop had used a wood spacer between the bumper and tub when installing the new quarter panels which probably through off the alignment. Lots of lessons learned on my first frame off.

I've got a '75 that is in pretty good shape, no bodywork needed, besides a mediocre paint job, but I'd like a better suspension set-up, a full-re-wire and fuel injection. Would you recommend Joe and his shop, given your experience? Or is he only interested in full body-off projects? PM me if you like.

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3400?
Jesus...
Buy a brand new one...
I completely rebuilt one of my hard top caps a few years back, with gutter, rivets, sealer, gel coat etc. Including broken bolts. Did it in a weekend. About 10-14 hours.
I have no idea how they can take 50 plus hours on a top. Holy hell... that must include sleeping, lunch, and coffee breaks.

I'm going to tackle my 64 top in a couple months. I'll do a thread on it. Just to confirm my memory...

But after all that, I respect people who pay for quality work. And am glad your keeping another rig on the road...
 
I think I am understanding your alignment issue. I would suggest you put the top together with the bolts loose. Leave the body mounts loose. Fit it on the truck and try to adjust the body mounts with some washers as needed as you tighten things up. It may end up being a juggling match but with some patience you should be able to get it solid.
 
At this point sell the top and get a soft top. Your asking for a mess dealing with a tub that is not straight.
 
Refurbing my hardtop pieces now, approx $1000 in OEM seals and weatherstrip................
 
At this point sell the top and get a soft top. Your asking for a mess dealing with a tub that is not straight.
Yeah this thought has crossed my mind Troll Hole but it is too late to turn back at this point. It sounds like he was able to pull it together with a little tweaking.
 
Alignment is one of the reasons I decided to sell my top and stick with a soft top. I doubt I could ever get the hard top to fit again with all the tweaks and hits to the body while wheeling. I love the look of a 40 with the hard top on, but it's not always possible. I do miss being warm while driving, though :)
 
Yeah sadly you could've gotten a sweet Trollhole waterproof top and Real Steel bows for much less than the cost of the refurb. I'm going to go with a one piece fiberglass top for my frame off 75. $1,300 shipped to my door.
 
Removing the old top can be a pain in the ass. Some I've quoted a couple grand only to find out some jackhole glued the sides to the top. Had to cut the gasket out which took hours and still screwed up the drip edge. Then you have all the bolts that snap off. Then drill out, grind off or cut out the old rivets and then separate the fiberglass from the rusty ass rail. Sand the tops old seam sealer off while trying no to screw up the fiberglass. Reassemble the sides on the truck with the rear cross member. Bolt new channel down. Grind it to fit and weld it together. Mark all the fracking rivet holes. Drill them out. Paint the drip edge. Adhere the top on the drip edge. Clamp it down. Wait for that crap to dry, Then hand rivet all those bastards. Then your ready for seam epoxy primer, seam sealer, sanding primer, a s***load of sanding, then a sealer, then paint.

How in the hell do you people think 10-15 hrs was enough time?


agree with marshall, the hard tops are a PIA to restore and have alot of moving parts.
 
I think I am understanding your alignment issue. I would suggest you put the top together with the bolts loose. Leave the body mounts loose. Fit it on the truck and try to adjust the body mounts with some washers as needed as you tighten things up. It may end up being a juggling match but with some patience you should be able to get it solid.
It sounds like they were able to pull it all together. When I purchased the FJ40 it had a softtop and the hardtop had been sitting around out side for years and was all nasty so I had never installed it. Lots of unknowns without ever being installed plus the body panel replacement that had to be done.
 
Yeah sadly you could've gotten a sweet Trollhole waterproof top and Real Steel bows for much less than the cost of the refurb. I'm going to go with a one piece fiberglass top for my frame off 75. $1,300 shipped to my door.
Where do you get a one pcs fiberglass top? That sounds like the way to go but not much for adjustment if it is one solid pcs.
 
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