Builds H55/Splitcase into 02/79-40 Series (1 Viewer)
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- Thread starter
- #143
John’s truck still has the stock fuel lines on the frame. I modified them a bit to clear the newer style transmission mount that was installed. The rear mounting provision on the frame for securing the lines was now covered up by the angle used for the skid plate, so welded a bolt to the inner angle plate and used two rubber-cushioned positioning clamps to now secure the lines to the frame.....
This truck goes down the road so nice. It is a real pleasure to drive John!
Thanks!
This truck goes down the road so nice. It is a real pleasure to drive John!
Thanks!
Poser-
Nice work on the skid plate. What size tubing and plate did you use? Any plans for a transfer case drain area, or just drop it when needed?
Nice work on the skid plate. What size tubing and plate did you use? Any plans for a transfer case drain area, or just drop it when needed?
- Thread starter
- #145
The tube used was 1.5”x.120” HREW for the main cross tubes and hoop around the parking brake drum. Three 1”x .120” tube was used for the stringers between the front and rear cross tubes. .250” plate was then welded to the tube frame.
It is only six bolts securing it to the frame and the one bolt securing the fuel lines that need to be removed in order to drop it. Drain holes invite rocks and other things directly into the drain plug to cause unwanted drama with them.
Adventure Teq
SILVER Star
Dude...
You are the master fo sho.
Nice work.
You are the master fo sho.
Nice work.
Coolerman
SILVER Star
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Steve,
You mentioned 'the little wonder air saw'? I have tried nibblers, air shears, tin snips, sawzall, really thin grinding wheels and even a hacksaw blade mounted in a hand held holder to cut metal and none of them are the cats meow.
Care to give some air time to the little wonder?
It looks like you have excellent control over where it goes evidenced by your cuts? How long is the stroke?
Thanks... Coolerman
You mentioned 'the little wonder air saw'? I have tried nibblers, air shears, tin snips, sawzall, really thin grinding wheels and even a hacksaw blade mounted in a hand held holder to cut metal and none of them are the cats meow.
Care to give some air time to the little wonder?
It looks like you have excellent control over where it goes evidenced by your cuts? How long is the stroke?
Thanks... Coolerman
- Thread starter
- #148
Steve,
You mentioned 'the little wonder air saw'? I have tried nibblers, air shears, tin snips, sawzall, really thin grinding wheels and even a hacksaw blade mounted in a hand held holder to cut metal and none of them are the cats meow.
Care to give some air time to the little wonder?
It looks like you have excellent control over where it goes evidenced by your cuts? How long is the stroke?
Thanks... Coolerman
Saw specs <---- this is a link
Just like any tool, there is a knack to it, but after you learn how to use/manipulate it, it is simply amazing what you can do with it.
There are many similar saws out there. Not all have a air restrictor/control valve built into them, but it would not be too difficult to put a generic unit on a tool that does not come with one, just after the coupler.
Poser-
I'm getting ready to secure my brackets to the inside of the frame and wondered what the plan for removing the tranny would be for this rig? Is there room at the tranny hump to jack up the tranny to remove the center crossmember, or will the hump have to be removed? Obviously with a 73 I'd like to prevent removing the hump (seats, gas tank, etc.).
I'm considering welding one "L" bracket and welding tubing through the frame and bolting the second bracket to the frame to facilitate dropping the tranny in the future.
Any suggestions?
I'm getting ready to secure my brackets to the inside of the frame and wondered what the plan for removing the tranny would be for this rig? Is there room at the tranny hump to jack up the tranny to remove the center crossmember, or will the hump have to be removed? Obviously with a 73 I'd like to prevent removing the hump (seats, gas tank, etc.).
I'm considering welding one "L" bracket and welding tubing through the frame and bolting the second bracket to the frame to facilitate dropping the tranny in the future.
Any suggestions?
Myself,, weld the L on the left (driver) side.... the right one needs to be removable for ease in R&R trans/transfer......
Thanks Grant, that's the way I'm leaning. Need the occassional push in the right direction.
- Thread starter
- #152
Did you notice how it was installed?
The tube cross member, along with the gas tank (1979 40 series, 22 gallon external fuel tank) are preventing typical removal and installation of this transmission and transfer case assembly behind this 2F.
The transmission support brackets being removable or not has zero bearing on the serviceability of this unit in this application.
Depending on your engine and frame configuration, you may have more room.
That makes perfect sense. I've decided to weld a couple of inner frame plates on each side, and bolt the drivers side "L" bracket and weld the Passenger side bracket. Thanks for the info. This thread has helped a ton on my project.
I have a modified 01/80 FJ40 with the 2F and H55. It all fits and runs with the the original torque tube cross member in place. It is a very tight fit. The real question is whether I could ever change the clutch if it needed to be replaced. The rebuilt 2F and H55 where installed as one unit through the front of the FJ40.
- Thread starter
- #155
Welcome.
There is a pretty easy answer to this:
No.
There is not enough room to separate the transmission from the flywheel housing with the engine in place. The engine, transmission and transfer case assembly will need to be lowered and tipped down so that the engine is on the top of the front axle housing, so that the transmission and transfer case assembly can be unbolted from the flywheel housing and slid rearward, or the whole drive train assembly removed and serviced outside of the vehicle.
There were pictures of this very procedure earlier in the thread.
matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
I can get mine out but it's a real squeeze but then again i don't have the e brake on the tail shaft.
My mechanic has it down to a fine art.
My mechanic has it down to a fine art.
shifter id plate
Steve, or anybody else that may want it.
I still have my custom 5-speed instuction plate that we had made years ago
(the one that fits on the glove box)
I have since gone the sm465/toybox/splitcase route.
let me know
Dave
Steve, or anybody else that may want it.
I still have my custom 5-speed instuction plate that we had made years ago
(the one that fits on the glove box)
I have since gone the sm465/toybox/splitcase route.
let me know
Dave
- Thread starter
- #158
Thank you for the offer Dave.
Shane, AATLAS1X out here sent me a new one that he had made, along with a new pocket door...I have installed these items, but just forgot to take/post up pictures...
Shane, AATLAS1X out here sent me a new one that he had made, along with a new pocket door...I have installed these items, but just forgot to take/post up pictures...
This is the only thing here that has confused me. Passenger side clutch cylinder? What years changed to that? If this is a late model mod, and you were going to do this with an earlier model could you leave the cylinder on the passenger side just as easily? Or is this a H55 requirement?
- Thread starter
- #160
Was moved over there in 1975, iirc...
You can leave it on the driver (left) side as long as you have a rear engine mount that is configured that way currently...you will just need to modify the flywheel housing to fit the H55 as was shown in previous pictures.
