GX460 P2714 P0761 Ultimate Summary and Hope For A Fix Thread (4 Viewers)

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scruffylooking said:
Update to my post: I've had the codes pop up a couple times while in Sport mode in the last week or so. Infrequent but it has happened twice now.
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Probably not good…so sorry to hear that. I know some on here have gone 3 years in sport mode and going.

I did read if you get your rig in for the zip kit from Sonnex, solenoids and whatever the transmission shop suggest, it can save the whole thing. Too long with all the codes and degrading, likely a full replace.

I am looking into the next few months. Just have to find a good transmission shop.
 
StriderWolf said:
Quick update!

I started this thread a few months ago after my own issues and now in winter (when it’s colder) I am seeing a lot more early 2010’s GX460s same issues reported.

Manual shift mode for the first 15 minutes on our rig has made it so there are zero issues.

After reading a gazillion more threads, posts, etc., I have come to agree it’s not just speed sensors, electrical connectors, etc. Likely a mix.

This is where I think there is more hope - Diagnosing Solenoid Performance Faults in A761, AB60 & A960 6-Speed Transmissions - https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/345-diagnosing-solenoid-performance-faults-in-a761-ab60-a960-6-speed-transmissions. I have seen this posted by Acrad prior too.

The issue is I cannot find on a forum where someone did the zip kit and end plug fix and reported back. I have seen two folks on the Lexus 460 community mention it.

I think this summer I’ll work with a few reputable transmission shops to see who can test the valve body, transmission, etc., and has the know how for the Sonnax parts. If they can do that, I may as well do that, some solenoids, speed sensors and shift improvement kit (valve body). Hoping somewhere around $1700-2500.

IF that doesn’t do it for this common issue, it’s sport mode for life. I don’t want to dump another or original $8k for the same issue in another 90k.

I’ll report back if I run through with it and would love any updates if other have.

Cheers!
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Is there any way to get the bore plug they refer to? Or o-ring the existing one?
 
scruffylooking said:
Update to my post: I've had the codes pop up a couple times while in Sport mode in the last week or so. Infrequent but it has happened twice now.
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Same here. Just a few days ago I’ve been starting off in sport mode since mid January and had no issues but about 5 days ago had the codes pop up in sport mode as I was entering the interstate.

This was harrowing I had to go about 4 miles at 60mph where the average speed is about 80 mph and it wouldn’t allow me to manual shift into 5th or 6th. After I exited I came to a red light, shifted into park, back into sport mode and was able to shift manually into 5th and 6th. This is without even turning the truck off.

I have been driving all week with the codes still on because now even in drive it’s running though all the gears. I am still starting off in sport mode each day and shifting manually into 5th 6th for a few mins and then going into D. And after the first ride of the day I just am able to start the car and put it into D and go. All the gears work fine and shift fine but the dash is light a Christmas tree. I’ll probably clear the codes again this weekend but right now the truck is still driving fine and I couldn’t be bothered
 
Hi folks, I just signed up for the account in order to thank everyone for making this thread and keeping it going, as it's clearly an issue a lot of us are dealing with, it's scary, and having this community working together to try to find a solution that isn't $8k gives me some hope.

I also wanted to at least toss in my two cents as everyone's experience might help us get to a solution. I have a 2013 GX with 150k on the clock. It's somewhat new to me, and I am kicking myself because I was planning on doing a full overhaul of the fluids and some worn drivetrain parts, but just hadn't gotten around to it, and started getting the same issues and codes that you are all experiencing. Cold engine... first time into 4th the christmas tree lights go on... and there we are. It has me extremely freaked out because like most people, the cost of fixing this is not in my budget. I didn't buy this old rig because I'm flush with cash.

Where my story is a little different from what I am reading here is that I have been allowing the engine to warm up as a means of avoiding the error code tripping, and that has worked, with various degrees of success. Initially I could just warm it up for a minute or two, and it would be fine. But it did get progressively worse, eventually I was having to warm the engine almost to normal running temp, and cycle through the gears in sport mode while parked to get the thing to not trip. That experience led me to believe that it was the lack of viscosity in the trans fluid that was the culprit. I have now performed a drain and replace twice, and will likely perform it again two more times. The original trans fluid was black and acrid smelling when I got it out. No signs of debris, but it was clearly well past its prime and was also clearly burned.

The day after my first drain and replace I decided to just try to drive off without warming the engine, and the code popped again. That was extremely dismaying. I have since drained and replaced again, and will do it once more this week for sure. Since I will have 3 quarts of new fluid left over, I'll likely buy one more quart and do it a 4th time before maybe trying to drive off cold one more time to see if I get lucky.... I doubt that I will, I am not a lucky man.

While the drain and replace hasn't been a total fix, what I can say is that the shifts do feel much better with the new fluid, and I have reduced my little pre-drive ritual from warming the engine for many minutes to simply allowing the engine to run in park for about 15 seconds, shifting into reverse for about 30 seconds, then running through the sport mode gears up and down while parked for another 30 seconds. It's been about a month of this and it hasn't tripped yet, which is great.

So that's my story. Again, I want to thank all you guys for sharing, and especially to those of you that are really pushing the envelope trying to find a solution for the rest of us. The recent posts about the bore plug solution sound very promising, though I have to admit, the technical descriptions sound like Star Trek technobabble. Where does the bore plug go? Do I have to get in a Jefferies Tube in the starboard nacelle? lol. Sorry. Anyhow. I will continue to follow, and I will update my experience if anything relevant comes of it. Thank you all again for sharing. It makes me feel like maybe I won't go broke trying to fix this heap.
 
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i bought the Sonnax kit from rockauto.com and it arrived last Friday. So what better Saturday activity than to pull the valve body and replace this plug?

I started a little after lunch draining the transmission pan and pulling all of the bolts from the pan. Leaving me with a nice view of the shift solenoids and filter. All of these have been replaced in the past 10k miles and according to techstream are actuating how and when they are supposed to.

I pulled the bolts mounting the valve body to the inside of the transmission and laid them out in my pretty blue mat in the same orientation as they are in the transmission because these bolts have a few different lengths and my memory is short. I also went ahead and pulled the solenoid that the new plug goes behind.
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When I removed the valvebody the actuator piston(circled) and check ball and spring(rectangle) feel out. These are not held in by anything but the actuator is a tight fit and will stay in place during re-assembly.
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With the valve body out set it on a clean, contained space. I used a Rubbermaid trash can lid that has been washed and dried. It holds in the transmission fluid that is constantly leaking out of the valvebody, makes a nice catch tray for small pieces that might fall off, and it's large enough to hold the fully disassemble valvebody.
 
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The valve body splits into 3 large pieces with a couple of plates, keeps, and detent balls between the pieces. Start removing all of the bolts so you can separate the pieces. Use the bottom plate(arrows) to pull the top half of the valve body off, if you don't you could lose detent balls and keeps.
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When you separate the valvebody place the bolts into the base because they are all different lengths.
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the keep that needs to be removed is pictures above, use a pick and magnet to remove it and slowly work the plug out with the pick.

Use lots of brake cleaner to clean your grime out of the valvebody, insert the new plug and the old keep, them reassemble. You will need about a gallon and a half of WS fluid to refill the transmission.
 
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Ok I drove it about 200 miles without issue... Then lost all line pressure on 1-4 gears. I am assuming either the o-ring slipped out of place or blew out. I will be pulling apart soon and verify for everyone. The teardown and rebuild took about 8-10 hours the first time, but after figuring out how to do it I am guessing it will be closer to 3 hours total time.

Toyota WS is the high cost part of the job and I'm kind of mad I am having to change a little over a gallon and a half twice.
 
BamaPaul said:
Ok I drove it about 200 miles without issue... Then lost all line pressure on 1-4 gears. I am assuming either the o-ring slipped out of place or blew out. I will be pulling apart soon and verify for everyone. The teardown and rebuild took about 8-10 hours the first time, but after figuring out how to do it I am guessing it will be closer to 3 hours total time.

Toyota WS is the high cost part of the job and I'm kind of mad I am having to change a little over a gallon and a half twice.
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Sorry to hear about the breakdown, but sounds like you have an idea on what to fix. Thanks for replying back and all the best!
 
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MaxLife is a great alternative to WS and, unlike WS, is full synthetic. $22 for a gallon (depending on where you get it). I've ran it in mine for 3.5 years and other Toyota trans as well, lots of other folks on here also run it.
 
BamaPaul said:
Ok I drove it about 200 miles without issue... Then lost all line pressure on 1-4 gears. I am assuming either the o-ring slipped out of place or blew out. I will be pulling apart soon and verify for everyone. The teardown and rebuild took about 8-10 hours the first time, but after figuring out how to do it I am guessing it will be closer to 3 hours total time.

Toyota WS is the high cost part of the job and I'm kind of mad I am having to change a little over a gallon and a half twice.
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Well, if it didn't grind anything up you could definitely re-use the WS.
I would also recommend Idemitsu TLS-LV fluid from Rockauto, way less expensive. 2011 LEXUS GX460 4.6L V8 Transmission Fluid | RockAuto - https://www.rockauto.com/?carcode=1446871&parttype=11387
 
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