Seller states transmission wasn't swapped, sensor(s?) were replaced and hasn't had issues or codes since. I am shy of pulling the trigger as we live in a pretty harsh winter environment where sub 0 temps are regular throughout the winter from October thru April.
GX460 P2714 P0761 Ultimate Summary and Hope For A Fix Thread (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter StriderWolf
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I'd pass, especially with it being so far away from you. It was still driving for some period of time with nasty trans fluid in it. That can do other damage to the clutches, valve bodies, etc. There is no guarantee they haven't just been clearing the codes or that you won't get codes again a few months from now. Better off to keep looking and wait for one with a clean bill of health that is also closer.
This is what I am thinking as well. He just mentioned its at dealer now getting the codes / sensors / solenoids replaced as well at the Cat. Sounds like a bit of a basket case that I will pass on. I was also looking at a Mid 90's Town Car to road trip back, so now this might give me the excuse to cruise back in a true Land Yacht.
r2m
Richard
You didn't know how many miles it has?
But with dirty trans fluid and some code lights coming, yeah, I'd probably pass.
Does it have a receiver and if so, do you know if it towed a lot, I mean often and heavy weights?
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Has anyone been able to get techstream to reset the transmission control module? When I go into the utility screen, as shown in the video, and hit reset, it starts the 45 second countdown, gets to about 38 seconds and says 'Reset memory has failed. Reset memory is not available for this vehicle.' ver 17.20.013
Started experiencing this code on our 2012 with 182k for the last 3 months. Started seeing a code with flashing 4LO and Check engine light. P2714 only. Reset and would not come back for 2 weeks. Code would come back more frequently and now randomly present with P0761. Never had any drivability issues. Shifts are buttery smooth. All up until we had the arctic blast last week. Temps in the 20's here in Texas. The lights came on again and would not shift out of 3rd. I had the wife park the car and didn't use it for a week. I reset the code and shifts up through 6th with no issues.
I had reading tons of threads where all attempts to save have still ultimately ended in a new transmission for 1 reason or another. We have owned since 2014 and 40k miles. I personally changed Trans Fluid 50% at 110K miles and added transmission line cooler. I already had fluid to do another Fluid change when this started occurring. I found a Tundra forum post where similar issue was solved with Transmission Output speed sensor. After being scared off of doing a fluid change and rapidly progressing the issue, yesterday I bit the bullet and did a complete fluid change and also changed the Output speed sensor. It was 40 degrees this morning and so far so good, shifts smoothly, Trans temps were good the whole way and no codes. Keeping fingers crossed..
I had reading tons of threads where all attempts to save have still ultimately ended in a new transmission for 1 reason or another. We have owned since 2014 and 40k miles. I personally changed Trans Fluid 50% at 110K miles and added transmission line cooler. I already had fluid to do another Fluid change when this started occurring. I found a Tundra forum post where similar issue was solved with Transmission Output speed sensor. After being scared off of doing a fluid change and rapidly progressing the issue, yesterday I bit the bullet and did a complete fluid change and also changed the Output speed sensor. It was 40 degrees this morning and so far so good, shifts smoothly, Trans temps were good the whole way and no codes. Keeping fingers crossed..
Where's the speed sensor located?
r2m
Richard
Have you checked here: GX 460 Manuals
re_guderian
SILVER Star
That's encouraging. Can you please report back in a few weeks, either way?
Interesting if it's the out[it speed sensor since I'm facing this issue on a completely different platform. So far I've tried what others suggested since I last posted with flipping the car into manual mode and it goes through all the gears. After I shift from 3rd to 4th for the first time during the current drive cycle I flip it back into drive. No codes since I've done this.
If you are up for a swap offer them $10k. I would do it.
- Thread starter
- #53
Another person reported that after replacing his fluid, dropping the pan, cleaning it, changing the filter and doing the solenoids, he was still getting codes. He did the speed sensors and the codes did go away.
I have 2 speed sensor in the garage… just waiting for warmer temps to do it in the driveway. Manual shifting has worked for 3 months!
If it is not an actual stuck solenoid, this tracks. Diagnostics typically reference engine or transmission speed for amount of revolutions that each diagnostic will have to fail to actually set a code. Good to know might just need a new sensor or wiring for the sensor! Cheap fixes are the best solutions compared to a full rebuild and still getting the code since the sensor is likely carried over. I wonder if you can clean the sensor first and see if that fixes it. Sometimes they are magnetic and could accumulate enough material to distort the signal.
- Thread starter
- #55
Yes sir! Correct! I have read so many reports from folks like you mentioned that often the fault codes point to an issue vs. like in this case, the actual solenoid. We’ve had our solenoids tested and they are fine and they work perfectly well after the car warms up daily. I agree.
Another report from a person was a simple fix like the speed sensors, but more to your point on cleaning them, this user needed up unhooking elec connectors for the transmission, cleaning them and reconnecting. That would be awesome!
I’ve heard many reference a software update, but have yet to see a follow up that this did anything. Some tried unhooking their battery for a hard reset (myself included). Nada on the battery.
I plan to do my speed sensors with new ones and the connectors in a few weeks.
The only reason a software update would be needed is if there is a TSB specifically for this, or NHTSA/EPA/CARB have mandated a fix. In which case, a software issue like that would be pretty severe for Toyota to have messed up on. I would highly doubt software would fix a diagnostics issue. Typically there might be updates to the calibrations for the diagnostics that might have been updated and when your model year vehicle has issues they will pull forward the updates. But generally speaking that is very infrequent. If battery reset only temporarily solves it and it keeps coming back it is likely a hardware/sensor issue.
There is an old TSB for 2010 models but is for addressing shifting performance and not faults. I do not recall any other AT flash TSBs on the 460.
- Thread starter
- #58
I am about to propose what some here will consider snake oil. Had this not worked for me on numerous occasions on cars and other applications I would not mention it. It is not guaranteed to help your problem, but it can't hurt.
I picked a vintage Sansui receiver out of a trash bin at work. Also grabbed the beat up set of speakers that went with it. Sure enough, it powered on but had the scratchy potentiometer syndrome like most of these old receivers develop. Since I had $0 in it I decided to see of there was a cleaning agent I could buty that would fix it. After some research I found this:
Deoxit Fader F5
This variation of cleaner is safe for use on plastic potentiometers like those found in guitars and old receivers. So it's safe for use in just about any application.
Took the cover off the receiver and sprayed down the controls while working them back and forth. Voila, the receiver worked like new.
Fast forward a few months and I was struggling getting a scoter running for my Niece. Replace a bunch of parts to no avail. As a last resort I took all the connections apart and sprayed the connections with the Fader F5. Put it back together and it ran perfect.
My Camaro would throw the ABS lights intermittently. Before I tried anything else, I pulled the connectors and sprayed the contacts with Fader F5. Not more ABS lights.
Also used to fix a sticking door switch on my microwave.
The connections might look perfectly fine, but there can be a very fine amount of dirt/corrosion that prevents a good contact. I'm not saying this will fix the problem, but if it were me, it would be the first thing I would try.
I picked a vintage Sansui receiver out of a trash bin at work. Also grabbed the beat up set of speakers that went with it. Sure enough, it powered on but had the scratchy potentiometer syndrome like most of these old receivers develop. Since I had $0 in it I decided to see of there was a cleaning agent I could buty that would fix it. After some research I found this:
Deoxit Fader F5
This variation of cleaner is safe for use on plastic potentiometers like those found in guitars and old receivers. So it's safe for use in just about any application.
Took the cover off the receiver and sprayed down the controls while working them back and forth. Voila, the receiver worked like new.
Fast forward a few months and I was struggling getting a scoter running for my Niece. Replace a bunch of parts to no avail. As a last resort I took all the connections apart and sprayed the connections with the Fader F5. Put it back together and it ran perfect.
My Camaro would throw the ABS lights intermittently. Before I tried anything else, I pulled the connectors and sprayed the contacts with Fader F5. Not more ABS lights.
Also used to fix a sticking door switch on my microwave.
The connections might look perfectly fine, but there can be a very fine amount of dirt/corrosion that prevents a good contact. I'm not saying this will fix the problem, but if it were me, it would be the first thing I would try.
- Thread starter
- #60
Thanks! I hope this and the speed sensors may do something!
