Group buy for double cardan driveshaft?

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Finally installed my front CD and test drove the rig.

Installed without washer and the nuts on on axle didn't touch the last thread but I don't think it matters because that thread is chamfered so it's not really biting tight any way- am I wrong? Should I remove and mill the flange down? The nuts on the diff got full thread and flush with the thread so I think this is good.

So far the rig ran smoother without the rough vibration into the 4H 4L shifter, no rumble in the diff/axle when decelerate. I guess long road trip will confirm permanent fix. It's worth the money spent since it will take a lot more time and money to modify used Taco shaft.
 
Do we have an update on the shipping of the last batch of DC shafts?
 
Since the taco shaft is mentioned frequently in this thread, I think this is a fair question: why retrofit a taco shaft over an 80 shaft? The dc joint is $300 and labor at a driveline shop is $100-ish. That's my plan. Lock my cdl and drive around in 2 wheel drive while they do the work. Less than a week turn around...
 
add me to the list too LX450 front 2" lift

Pretty sure that train has left the station.

Hey, has anybody received their machined one back from Tatton yet? I have yet to send mine in as I left it at my house in Flag. I've got to get it to the UPS store for shipping...
 
I just installed mine. Works well, no vibes. But now my transfer case is leaking. Time to pull it and install the Marlin Crawler low range gears...
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Final update. The 2nd and last batch of this group buy has been milled and shipped on Tues so latest everybody should receive theirs is next Monday if not tomorrow (Fri).

Those that want to order, you can contact Curtis of Tatton Drive shaft directly at 801-685-0056. Thanks.
 
I'm out of town but mine came in yesterday & will install Monday if I have time before I leave town again. Question, and it may be apparent once I see it, but does it matter whether the yokes are in phase or out, or no matter b/c it's a DC? Perhaps there are marking lines on the shaft...my boy pulled it out of it's box hoping it was his new dirt bike exhaust, separated it, and wifey left it on my work bench in two pieces...
 
I'm out of town but mine came in yesterday & will install Monday if I have time before I leave town again. Question, and it may be apparent once I see it, but does it matter whether the yokes are in phase or out, or no matter b/c it's a DC? Perhaps there are marking lines on the shaft...my boy pulled it out of it's box hoping it was his new dirt bike exhaust, separated it, and wifey left it on my work bench in two pieces...
 
There were marks on mine. I accidentally seperated mine but saw the marks so no worries


...via IH8MUD app
 
Installed this morning without any problems. The flange is a bit thicker but I still have full thread engagement and the holes all lined up. Smooth as butter now!
 
Installed this morning without any problems. The flange is a bit thicker but I still have full thread engagement and the holes all lined up. Smooth as butter now!

You didn't have to mill down the flange? Did you put the washers back on?

I wonder if you got one from the second run of shafts. Either way, that's awesome.

It does ride smoother. I'm happy with it so far. Just hope it holds up on the trail.
 
No I did not have to mill down the flange, and yes I re-used all of the same hardware (nuts, bolts & washers). It is probably from the 2nd run as I just received it on Friday. I have not locked it up in the dirt yet, but tooting around the hills and at 75mph on the freeway all was good.
 
Looks like they were milled from the back since they look thin.
 
Just placed an order for a couple of rears.
 
Looks like they were milled from the back since they look thin.

Yeah, I had to do a double take.

I'm going to follow up with him today, as he should have received mine back yesterday. I might try and encourage him to become a vendor on here as there is a potential market for the front shaft. Hey, he did the right thing and addressed the issue for us.

And before the haters chime in, yeah we know it is not Toyota OEM joints. :p
 
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