ardentyota
Flexy
Well, three weeks after I completed the 3-link on my truck, the HG bit the dust. I discovered oil in the coolant and began the diagnosis. I was hoping it was just the oil cooler, but it was not... No signs of failure and the cooler appeared in good shape. Next I had the radiator pressure tested to see if failure occurred in the internal transmission cooler. No dice, the radiator was fine.
So I went ahead and called up my friend Onur (If he wasn't my friend before, he is now... $$
) and got started tearing things apart.
I caught it in the early stages on cyl 6 failure. I wasn't loosing coolant, but the HG was definitely on it's way out.
So the front of the engine was caked in oil and dirt from a leaky oil pump cover and I decided to replace that while I was at it. So then came the dreaded removal of the crank bolt. I tied nylon rope around the crank pulley so that it tightened on itself and attached to both frame rails. It took a while, some bad words
and about 6 feet of cheater bar over my 1/2" breaker bar to break it loose. Yeah, yeah- shoulda used the starter before the head was removed...
I took the head to a local machine shop who cleaned it up and completed a valve job and milled it .008". He also tipped the valves to assist with the clearances. He wanted a minimum of $300 to check and adjust the valves, so I decided to try it. Glad I did as only one valve was .001 out of spec.
Here were the shim measurements. Looks like I forgot to take a pic of the clearance measurements.
Well, with the head at the shop I decided to start cleaning up the engine bay and cylinder block. the block was nasty with the old gasket material and pitting. The upper oil pan was also leaking, and finally the timing chain slipper and damper were noticeably worn.
It was decision time. I decided to pull the engine in order to complete a full rebuild. Since the head was off, I had to weld up a bracket to bolt onto the block in order to remove it from the engine bay.
So I went ahead and called up my friend Onur (If he wasn't my friend before, he is now... $$
) and got started tearing things apart. 
I caught it in the early stages on cyl 6 failure. I wasn't loosing coolant, but the HG was definitely on it's way out.
So the front of the engine was caked in oil and dirt from a leaky oil pump cover and I decided to replace that while I was at it. So then came the dreaded removal of the crank bolt. I tied nylon rope around the crank pulley so that it tightened on itself and attached to both frame rails. It took a while, some bad words
and about 6 feet of cheater bar over my 1/2" breaker bar to break it loose. Yeah, yeah- shoulda used the starter before the head was removed...I took the head to a local machine shop who cleaned it up and completed a valve job and milled it .008". He also tipped the valves to assist with the clearances. He wanted a minimum of $300 to check and adjust the valves, so I decided to try it. Glad I did as only one valve was .001 out of spec.
Here were the shim measurements. Looks like I forgot to take a pic of the clearance measurements.
Well, with the head at the shop I decided to start cleaning up the engine bay and cylinder block. the block was nasty with the old gasket material and pitting. The upper oil pan was also leaking, and finally the timing chain slipper and damper were noticeably worn.
It was decision time. I decided to pull the engine in order to complete a full rebuild. Since the head was off, I had to weld up a bracket to bolt onto the block in order to remove it from the engine bay.
