Got Slow Windows? Here's the Fix. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter SUMMIT CRUISERS
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Like most I need to do this, I recently swapped out all my gas struts for hood and hatch, as well as re-greased all door components and find these little things make the truck feel almost new again. The original post said about 2hrs per window, which obviously considers removal time, given the value of my time ( and yours) would this be a better option, and has anyone tried these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Windo...Cruiser&hash=item1e76cffc86&vxp=mtr#vi-ilComp
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Windo...Cruiser&hash=item1e76cffc86&vxp=mtr#vi-ilComp
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
that's super cheap .. can only guess the price of the Toyota part these days ...
SUMMIT CRUISERS
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- Thread starter
- #24
Interesting find. How well is it built? How long will it last? Maybe someone else will chime in that has purchased one. We know they are made in China and the quality would be questionable over OEM.
The most time-consuming part of the job is the removal and reinstall. The cleaning part for me was just fun, interesting, and probably took about 20 to 30 minutes.
Hey Summit Sr., do your window speeds stay relatively constant when operating multiple windows at once now that this is done? Single window speed is ok on mine but really slows once I go for two or more at a time. Thx....
alia176
SILVER Star
Well, remember you get what you pay for and OEM parts are still kicking ass in our rigs. PM like this one should be a no brainer for a high quality OEM part. On my list as soon as the temps warm up.
Didn't someone figure out a way to only replace the motor with one from a hobby shop? Maybe that was for something else.
Have done this to GMs too. Biggest help was cleaning up commutator. Would make motor that wouldn't even move work good.
yes. added to the list!
SUMMIT CRUISERS
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- #30
When operating more than one window, the speed drops significantly. I tested tonight and the the front windows (operated at the same time) increase the times by almost double. I then retested the fixed passenger window by itself and all was good.
First off, thanks again for posting this. Great detail and I'm sure plenty of folks will jump in and freshen up their original components just as you've outlined. Seems fair to speculate that just about everyone's current assemblies would benefit from this tune-up.
Thx for confirming, ditto here.
With that, this is at the crux of one of the mods I've been waiting for. It would be fantastic if someone could outline the steps, or find the right replacement electrical switch, that will keep current constant to all four window motors regardless of how many are operating at any given time. Despite best efforts here and by others (cleaning contacts at the master switch, cleaning the original or spending an inordinate chunk of change - but claiming to be happy in the end - on new window runs, etc.), operating more than one window at a time in an 80 is underwhelming to say the least.
So to the electrical tinkerers and engineers out there, what say you? Not trying to hi-jack Steve's great work here, if the experts have some real inputs on that topic, please start anew.
thx!
Thx for confirming, ditto here.
With that, this is at the crux of one of the mods I've been waiting for. It would be fantastic if someone could outline the steps, or find the right replacement electrical switch, that will keep current constant to all four window motors regardless of how many are operating at any given time. Despite best efforts here and by others (cleaning contacts at the master switch, cleaning the original or spending an inordinate chunk of change - but claiming to be happy in the end - on new window runs, etc.), operating more than one window at a time in an 80 is underwhelming to say the least.
So to the electrical tinkerers and engineers out there, what say you? Not trying to hi-jack Steve's great work here, if the experts have some real inputs on that topic, please start anew.
thx!
Just purchased this. Thanks!
Even if it only lasts 1/4 the time of my OEM one (20 years!!!), it will still be money well spent.
This option will leave me with the OEM motor to rebuild for a back-up if the china drop in part fails.
SUMMIT CRUISERS
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- Thread starter
- #33
So to the electrical tinkerers and engineers out there, what say you? Not trying to hi-jack Steve's great work here, if the experts have some real inputs on that topic, please start anew.
thx![/QUOTE]
All you would need to do is install one relay per window motor. This also would include a new fused direct power wire going to ea. motor. Since each window has its own switch, the relay would need to be placed between that switch and the motor. Sounds like a relay inside each door panel to me.
thx![/QUOTE]
All you would need to do is install one relay per window motor. This also would include a new fused direct power wire going to ea. motor. Since each window has its own switch, the relay would need to be placed between that switch and the motor. Sounds like a relay inside each door panel to me.
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Agree. I been replacing 24yr old OEM parts on my truck since I got it. I figure, if this weatherstrip or switch or grab handle or whatever lasted 24yrs, a new one will last just as long.
For me, that is worth the extra cost of OEM parts.
Cheers
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All you would need to do is install one relay per window motor. This also would include a new fused direct power wire going to ea. motor. Since each window has its own switch, the relay would need to be placed between that switch and the motor. Sounds like a relay inside each door panel to me.[/QUOTE]
You'd need two relays per door panel (one up, one down). Also you have to disable the auto-up feature or you'll burn up the driver side motor.
Great,another must do that I don't have time for.
I'm on the last leg of a total restoration/Isuzu diesel swap and had super slow windows as well. So slow in fact that I had to grab my glass with one hand to help it up. Everyone needs to keep in mind that spraying any type of lube into your run channels will only be a temporary fix. Dust and dirt will stick to that lube in the tracks and only amplify your real problem. Instead try this. Roll your glass all the way down. Pull the rubber window run channels out and use dawn dishwashing liquid and an old toothbrush to scrub the buildup inside of the rubber where the glass rides. Rinse and while still wet the rubbers will slide easily back into the doors. I have been in the auto body business for over 20 years and seen this on hundreds of vehicles. My windows work now effortlessly with speed just like new. Auto manufacturers don't lube the runs at the factory so why would you? Inside this rubber where the glass rides is where all the friction is when the glass moves. Trust me cleaning out years of buildup will amaze you at how well your windows will work again. They may not look dirty but just pull that drivers door rubber out and start scrubbing. You'll be surprised at all of the black mess that comes out of it!
WOW! Thanks so much for this write up! Yet another example of how this forum has helped my wallet!
You can you a alarm window module like DEI 530T it has relays built in to it and also gives you auto for two window. One module works for two window.
