What happens at 440,000 mi when you NEVER service the windows???
Got Slow Windows? Here's the Fix.
- Thread starter SUMMIT CRUISERS
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What happens at 440,000 mi when you NEVER service the windows???
At 178,500, none of my windows worked, and only one of the doors locked and unlocked electrically.
So if you somehow have functional windows at 440,000 miles without maintenance, good for you, but other than bragging, worthless for the rest of us.
Good, I will keep what I am doing.
SUMMIT CRUISERS
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #65
Sounds like your one or both of your window tracks that hold the runners are loose and are allowing the window to move around.
All of those grease attract dirt. Use furniture polish, it works better.
While technically true, irrelevant.
Once the silicone rejuvenates the rubber, you swipe off excess. The movement of the window pretty much accomplishes this through the swiping effect.
No not really because furniture polish does a better job at lubing the glass as well as not attracting dirt.
The problem isn't the glass. It's the rubber.
I can tell when someone is over their head in mechanical terms when they start talking about lubrication attracting dirt.
How about doing something like this, replacing the rubber that simple? Found it on this site: How to change window rubbers
alia176
SILVER Star
Yup, that simple and can be purchased easily!
That is too mechanically difficult for some people. Furniture polish is easier and cheaper. It also will not attract dirt, which you don't want in between the rubber and glass.
You mean polish like "Pledge" or furniture beeswax? I used the later for sliding wood on wood items such as windows and drawers and lasts for years.
Yes exactly!
Followed this write-up this weekend. Wouldn't go all the way up, now works like a charm. Washed the runs, didn't lube but likely will in the next few, couldn't find my silicone spray.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Silicone spray is the last thing you want to use. Use wood polish instead.
After searching all over Fairbanks for a dry silicone spay, which I couldn't find, I ran across an article saying to use waterproofing silicone spray from caning store. Picked up a can of Scotch Guard waterproofing spray ( it's main ingredient is silicone). Sprayed and cleaned the window runs. Swabbed out the runs with q-tips and sprayed WD40 on metal moving parts.
The next couple days I heavily sprayed down the runs again. Tried up and downing the windows and it was still slow going up when temp was below 50.
Today there was frost on the ground and all over the 80, after several days of sitting soaked in Scotch Guard, the window rolled down and up with ease.
This is the first time in many years I could roll up the window without pulling it up in freezing weather.
The article I read said to spay down the old hard rubber with silicon and store in a sealed plastic bag for several days.
The next couple days I heavily sprayed down the runs again. Tried up and downing the windows and it was still slow going up when temp was below 50.
Today there was frost on the ground and all over the 80, after several days of sitting soaked in Scotch Guard, the window rolled down and up with ease.
This is the first time in many years I could roll up the window without pulling it up in freezing weather.
The article I read said to spay down the old hard rubber with silicon and store in a sealed plastic bag for several days.
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This is a great thread my window are slow as well. BUT - Did I read correctly that the OP used petroleum jelly instead of grease?
I wouldn't advise that as Petroleum jelly has a very low melting point (99 degrees F) - and will essentially dissolve in the spring/summer months.
I wouldn't advise that as Petroleum jelly has a very low melting point (99 degrees F) - and will essentially dissolve in the spring/summer months.
Sorry to bump an old thread but I have a couple questions as I am new on the 80 scene.
Is it the viscosity of the cold grease that makes the window slow in the cold?
Has anybody messed with the wiring at all for the power supply to the motor? Like I said , I’m new to the 80 world so unsure of what exactly it looks like in there aside from the OP pics. Just seems like there should be a relatively easy fix if it’s really that much worse in the cold.... but I am going to be doing the channel cleaning and see how that goes for mine.
I was laughing pretty hard when I tried to roll up my window after getting my morning coffee and discovering this dreaded window problem with nowhere to put my coffee cup!! Ugh! New guy problems!!
Is it the viscosity of the cold grease that makes the window slow in the cold?
Has anybody messed with the wiring at all for the power supply to the motor? Like I said , I’m new to the 80 world so unsure of what exactly it looks like in there aside from the OP pics. Just seems like there should be a relatively easy fix if it’s really that much worse in the cold.... but I am going to be doing the channel cleaning and see how that goes for mine.
I was laughing pretty hard when I tried to roll up my window after getting my morning coffee and discovering this dreaded window problem with nowhere to put my coffee cup!! Ugh! New guy problems!!
I put new regulators in, and that did not solve my issue. I replaced the window runs and that made a huge difference.
I know Steve (@SteveJackson) said in his diesel 60, he had 80 series regulators wired to the 24v system. He said they rolled up "real quick". I would think you could mess with the wiring to add more power to your windows without much consequence.
I know Steve (@SteveJackson) said in his diesel 60, he had 80 series regulators wired to the 24v system. He said they rolled up "real quick". I would think you could mess with the wiring to add more power to your windows without much consequence.
