Good Times - 1992 HZJ73 (5 Viewers)

[AirheadNut]

Those parking brakes can be quite frustrating, but there are a couple of things you can do to lessen the pain of reassembly. Use small zip ties to keep the shoe hold-down springs compressed while you get the pins and spring cups in place. Also, if you don't have a decent hooked pick for reinstalling the tensioner springs I would highly recommend buying one before proceeding. Makes the job so much easier.

 

[LDRF]

A small order arrived from Japan this morning.

Some misc stuff for the future:

• 14 new bolts for the front fenders: 90119-08563
• A rad hose clamp to replace a worm clamp on the lower rad hose: 96111-10530

And the last parts needed for rebuilding the knuckles/hubs:

• The outer hub seals: 90311-62003
• The T20 Torx screws for the electric locking hub slip ring: 90149-50055. I got 12 of them instead of the required 6, as they are known to strip and to driver bits are prone to break off in them. See my prior post!

 

[LDRF]

I finished reassembly of the parking brake for the second time

It only took two hours to reinstall the front facing shoes and hardware on both sides. I did not need to do the rears as they are ok. The drivers side went pretty good but passenger side was a little more problematic as I’m working “left handed”. Only two screams of frustration. I’m obviously getting better at it as I did not shred my fingers up this time.

Front shoes with the crooked pin:

All assembled and ready to go!

I did a quick adjustment and test and everything seems in good order. Will do a more thorough test today.

 

[LDRF]

For the parking brake hardware kit, I used both the Raybestos H17394 and the Carlson 17394. Both are the same, so it’s dealers choice

 

[Broski]

I didn’t have any luck with after market break shoes
Put OEM on and bingo the parking brake works now.

 

[LDRF]

The shoes and rotors are from Terrain Tamer, so quality aftermarket items. With the number of Land Cruisers there, you got to figure they should be good.

 

[LDRF]

HELP!!!

I’m starting to assemble my knuckles starting with the passenger side. When I greased up the knuckle bearings I noticed I had two different sets.

• TR0305C-9 labeled HI-CAP
• TR0305A

I (obviously) did not notice the different sets but I happened to install the races for the TR0305C HI-CAP bearings in the tops and the races for the TR0305A in the bottoms. So, matched sets on each side. Same bearings on the tops and same bearings on the bottoms. Fitment of races all went well and the bearings seat well too.

Does anyone know if I’m going to have any problems???

 

[Broski]

I think you’re fine, I would not worry.

 

[JuanJ]

I think you’re fine, I would not worry.

Hello,

x2.

Sometimes OEM bearings are hard to find. Koyos make a good substitution.





Juan

 

[LDRF]

Passenger side knuckle is in.

Before I started the knuckle, I installed new hard brake lines from the junction to each side.
Left/Passenger:

Right/Driver:

Things are coming along!!! Just need to install the hubs, rotors and brakes!!! …. And the whole drivers side

 

[Broski]

Passenger side knuckle is in.
View attachment 3578901

Things are coming along!!! Just need to install the hubs, rotors and brakes!!! …. And the whole drivers side

That felt gasket looks dry ? it should be coated in grease before installed.

 

[LDRF]

I think you’re fine, I would not worry.

x2.
Sometimes OEM bearings are hard to find. Koyos make a good substitution.

Thanks for the help/words of encouragement @Broski and @JuanJ. As you can see, I kept moving forward.

I thought it was interesting that I got two of the same bearings in the top and the two others in the bottom. I feel better that they are matching. My university statistics should have come in handy to calculate the probability ... I've forgotten most of it, but I think it's 33.33%

 

[LDRF]

It’s been a while since posting, but I did put a bunch of work in over the weekends, in March and early April. I finished the passenger side up.

Greasing the hub is fun. I used Shell Rotella SD Moly grease to match the engine oil.

Fill 3/4 full!

A very precise eyeball measurement! About this much …

On with the backing plate and spindle.

I’m continuing the matching Shell Rotella theme with the HD wheel bearing grease for the spindle and wheel bearings.

 

[LDRF]

I started the hub assembly with new rotors (), wheel studs (90942-02053), bearings (I’ll fill the missing part numbers in later) and seals (outer hub seals: 90311-62003).

I started the new studs by pounding them in with a punch, then finished running them tight using the stud nuts and the electric impact gun.

 

[LDRF]

The hub is on and locked and pre-loaded.

New T20 Torx screws (90149-50055)

New hub gasket ()

Install the spacer,as I don’t have the electronic locking hubs, and the locking hub gasket ().

Then on with the AVM locking hub.

The spacer uses 4 Allen bolts to attach it. Then the locking hub flange uses 4 M8 - 1.25 x 40mm for the deep holes and 2 M8 - 1.25 x 30mm for shallow holes. The long bolts go through the spacer into the hub. The short ones go into the spacer. The short holes are not quite 30mm deep, and since I could not get 25mm bolts I had to grind off a few threads to prevent the two bolts from bottoming out in the spacer. The current hardware are standard zinc plated bolts, washers and lock washers; I’m going to replace them with all stainless once I get to the fastener shop.

 

[Broski]

I not sure stainless is the right hardware to use in that application, It's very soft and may not be up to the task. JMHO

 

[LDRF]

New calipers (cross referenced with ‘95 v6 4Runner. Nugeon 97-01560A and 97-01560B) pads (Advics - ‘95 v6 4Runner) and hard brake lines to the calliper (47343-60021 left, 47341-60031 right). Plus new brake bleeder screw caps (31478-30010).

Fill front diff with new oil and new drain plug (90341-18035 - 10mm hex bolt with long magnet) and fill plug (90341-18021 - 10mm hex with flush magnet).

Do an oil and filter change (Shell Rotella 5w-30 full synthetic).

Bleed the brakes. Lots of walking back and forth as I my helpers were me, myself and I.

Change the fuel filter. I had to remove the fuel lines and take the entire assembly off as my strap wrench would not budge it. I used my huge water pump pliers on the bench to get it filter unscrewed from the housing. I filled the filter with fuel before assembly and pumped the primer. It started leaking fuel out of the drain petcock. FAK! Remove, check petcock and o-ring. Everything looks good, so reassemble and try again. Reprime and no leaks! YAY! Must have been a little dirt or something that was letting the fuel by. It fires right up, and the “Check Filter” light goes out. Double YAY!

Fire the wheels back on, drop it off the jack stands, and take it for a spin around the yard! First time rolling since last August!!!! Fun!!!!

Mechanicals are now sorted. Now, all I need is a new exhaust and some body work to pass the safety … Good Times!